Third time's a charm??
 

So, this is the third time I've made this post in 3 forums now. It's been made in FTE, Diesel Bombs general IDI category and now I'm here. Hope someone can toss out some input. My IP is leaking from just below the torque screw. It's coming from the fitting under the red plastic cover shown in the pics. From what I have researched, it's the guide stud which holds down the metering valve assembly?? I'm sure there's a seal on the guide shaft but from what I can see in the stanadyne drawing, you can't pull the guide stud without things coming apart on the inside. I guess my question is, can I pull the guide stud and try to re-seal or is it holding a bunch of other parts in place, that will come apart if I take the guide stud out? Just want to fix this damn leak. My main feed line from the filter was leaking also and I bought the braided stainless one from Mel and that problem was solved but this one is worrying me. Any input would be great. Thanks in advance.
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I don't would not advise replacing just the seal as there's many things that can get altered and lead to a premature failure. That being said it's entirely up to you. It is possible to fix the seal, but once the pump starts to leak failure usually follows.

I know the pump is going to need to be changed soon. Just wanting to stop the leak for now if I can. Does that red cap play a role in what's under it? Is there a bleeder valve or something under it?
Thanks for the reply.

I'll have a look under mine since the pump is off, post back when I find out :c:

That would be great. Thanks

seemed to just be an adjuster, but could not get mine to budge what so ever. :humm:

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After looking through everything I could find, it's a discharge fitting, which is help in place by a stud guide, and looking behind it within the pump, it seems to be going through the governor spring, and hold it in place. I could be wrong though, someone else should chime in soon.

That's about what I saw on the drawings from stanadyne. Just need to know if I can back it out a little and try and seal it off somehow or if I pull it all the way out if things will fall apart in there or not. ha ha. Thanks for the info. :c:

I wouldn't suggest pulling it out, but there is a seal in there. I will try pulling mine out and let you know how it goes :tu:

cool. if I can even back it out just a few turns I can get it sealed. thnx

Any luck with this one guys ???

Yes actually. Ironically I was able to fix it yesterday finally. After some phone calls, I talked to a pump builder in Woodland Ca.. He gave me the standyne part number and detailed instructions on how to do it. He said it would take him about an hour so I figured it would take me a day with my bad back. Turns out, the jam nut on the governor screw is countersunk on the pump side and an o ring sits in there. I was surprised at the lame design actually as the o ring compresses right down on the threads of the gov screw. No o ring groove, no seats, nothing. But, it worked and I guess that's all that matters. Was pretty simple really. You unhook the electrical connectors on the pump, pop the top cap off the pump to expose the gov spring assembly, then get an idea on the distance between the jam nut and the bolt head of the screw so it all ends up back in the same place, crack the jam nut loose and back the screw out. After a few turns, you will need to run the jam nut back towards the pump as it starts hitting the body that the injector lines come out of. Get the screw and jam nut out, pull the old o ring out of the nut, clean it all up and carefully put it back to where it was and snug it all down. Pay close attention and watch what is happening inside the pump as you are backing the screw out. I took a few pictures of it all before I did anything. You will also want to get a turkey baster and suck the fuel out of the bowl or it will run out everywhere when you pull the screw. I put my fuel in a clean container and poured it back in the bowl before I put the top cap back on. Oh, and the plastic cap over the bolt head is nothing. Toss it. Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated. :c:

Awesome ... Great to hear that all is better .... I assume its running better now too ???

I don't think it runs better but it does start a lot easier as there isn't any drain off of the fuel in the pump after shutdown. When she finally goes, I'm going to get a Moose pump in it and do the injectors at the same time. Btw, thanks for all of the help. Much appreciated.

:tu:..ANYTIME ...:c: