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-   -   Swapping to synthetic oil (https://www.dieselbombers.com/6-7-liter-dodge-cummins-07-5-12/91150-swapping-synthetic-oil.html)

donyasroughneck 02-10-2012 07:58 PM

Swapping to synthetic oil
 
I am planning on changing to Amsoil dual filter kit and swapping to Royal Purpal Synthetic oil? I only have 6000 miles on the truck. Will it hurt to change it now?

coors_man_2005 02-10-2012 08:21 PM

i dont beleive it hurts a motor to change types of oil as long as you drain and change completely and not just adding oil the way i see it i would like to see how the dual filter kit keeps the oil i have read good things

BIGHORN08 02-10-2012 10:25 PM

The only thing I hear about synthetic is that you're not supposed to go back to conventional after the swap. It wears on the seals differently. But once you go purple, I can guarantee you won't want to go back!

NadirPoint 02-10-2012 10:42 PM

That's A Myth
 

Originally Posted by BIGHORN08 (Post 857330)
...you're not supposed to go back to conventional after the swap. It wears on the seals differently.

Won't hurt a thing, going back and forth, either way. The seal compatibility myth (related angle) got started after some people who switched to synthetics had leaks. This was simply due to the fact that synthetics (generally speaking) flow better, especially at cold temps. So the synthetics also "leak better" when introduced into high mileage engines with marginal or failing seals.

Heath 02-11-2012 10:55 AM

6000 miles is plenty of miles to change over. Mixing, changing back and forth isn't a problem as mentioned above. AMSOIL only has a single bypass kit for your Dodge, not a dual. There were occasional problems with oil pressure lights going off with the dual mounts years back and they haven't recommended the dual for about 4 years now. The dual was only used in the 04 and older trucks but they just took it off the market last month.
The BMK21 is the kit you would need. Along with that a filter, BP241, BK1303, and BP242.
That would be all the pieces you need.

rufushusky 02-11-2012 12:01 PM


Originally Posted by BIGHORN08 (Post 857330)
The only thing I hear about synthetic is that you're not supposed to go back to conventional after the swap. It wears on the seals differently. But once you go purple, I can guarantee you won't want to go back!

You can go back and both as much as you want...I run a synthetic blend in the winter and conventional in the summer...no issues.


Originally Posted by Heath (Post 857420)
6000 miles is plenty of miles to change over. Mixing, changing back and forth isn't a problem as mentioned above. AMSOIL only has a single bypass kit for your Dodge, not a dual. There were occasional problems with oil pressure lights going off with the dual mounts years back and they haven't recommended the dual for about 4 years now. The dual was only used in the 04 and older trucks but they just took it off the market last month.
The BMK21 is the kit you would need. Along with that a filter, BP241, BK1303, and BP242.
That would be all the pieces you need.

I had a single bypass on my 04.5 and it was a great set up. I would run the bypass filter for 1.5-2 years before changing it, still had flow even when I changed it. They have some serious capacity! With the single bypass you can still run the economical factory full flow and not have to run a more specialized dual mount primary filter.

donyasroughneck 02-11-2012 08:05 PM

Thanks guys for the information. Installed the filter and by pass kit. It completely relocated the stock filter (thank God) :jump:it mounted on the frame under passager door. My dad has had his on his 09 for a couple of years and changes his oil once a year or 25000 miles. The cost was 380 dollars and took about two hours to complete.:tu:

rufushusky 02-12-2012 06:10 PM


Originally Posted by 617.95 (Post 857904)
Just because you do it doesn't mean its a smart thing to do. I have an uncle that has smoked meth for the last 20 years, that doesn't mean its safe for other people to do.
Besides the compatibility issue, there is absolutely zero benefit to using dino oils in anything except a dying jalopy. The only reason dino oils still exist in stores is because people think its cheaper since they pay less per QT. The problem is that people only think about the point of sale price instead of long-term costs.

6k miles is plenty to switch to synthetic.

Compatibility issues....like what? Most "synthetics"...group threes are nothing more than highly processed dino based oils. And as far as PAO based synthetics most major oil makes offer PAO/dino blends (like schaeffer's 7000)...so are they selling a flawed product?

There are plenty of UOAs of vehicles of all types running dino oils that turn up great results. While synthetics have their place (turbo gas applications, high performance apps, extreme cold etc etc) and benefits but dino oils are FAR from useless. The difference between group II+ and III is pretty thin IMHO.

NadirPoint 02-12-2012 07:25 PM

I would use nothing but conventional motor oils if I was putting alot more miles on my vehicles using more oil that way. The reality of the cost vs. benefit deal with synthetics is pretty limited to a minority of people in atypical situations. Most people that use them are just being pulled in with marketing hype and wasting money in the process. To claim there is no benefit to conventional oils in anything but a dying jalopy is absolutely retarded. An analogy related to smoking meth borders on incomprehensible.

But considering the source, I do understand somewhat. :w2:

rufushusky 02-20-2012 06:59 AM


Originally Posted by 617.95 (Post 861370)
Different additive packages, mostly to handle natural sulfur contamination in the dino oil.

What additive is that...CJ-4 oils require a max of 1% of sulfated ash to protect the emissions systems regardless of base stock used. Gas motor oil sulfur levels have been under 1% since the 80s at least.

Most of the sulfur is taken out of the crude during the refining process to make it useful as anything.


Originally Posted by 617.95 (Post 861370)
There is no such thing. Group III oils are pure marketing and not synthetic. Loopholes in the US laws allow them to be called such, and you can thank Castrol's low quality oils for that. The rest of the world doesn't allow Group III to be marketed as synthetic. Try finding blue bottle Rotella in Canada or the UK.

Yeah Castrol wiggled their way through the law using hydrocracked group three base stocks in syntec.


Originally Posted by 617.95 (Post 861370)
They are made from the start to be blended and they have extra additives specifically to make them blend better.

Man I need to get into the additive business...what additive is one now?

Amsoil, by far and way the snobbiest of PAO synthetics makers, and most every other oil maker say it is perfectly fine to mix group 2-4 motor oils.


Originally Posted by 617.95 (Post 861370)
That is false information. The only valid application for dino oils is poorly maintained engines at the end of their lives. All maintained engines benefit from synthetic in every application and weather condition.

And again this is based on what?

Synthetics are better based on what un-quantifiable criteria that doesn't seem to manifest itself on a UOA?


Originally Posted by 617.95 (Post 861370)
There is NO difference between them.

No sir, while they are VERY VERY close, group three oils support a higher viscosity index hence why you have group three 0w40 and 5w40 and no group two oils with those properties.


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