south bend dd came apart
 

just like the title says it came apart. southbend did warranty the clutch. but wouldnt stand behind everything eles that it cracked, (tcase,bellhousing,trans adapter). also the rear main seal was leaking so another question is how much life did it knock out of my main bearings? now exactly what happened is the roll pins that holds the floating disk in place broke. letting the floater go everywhere it wanted to go. (about a 1/4'' every direction) my question to you guys is what do you think about this. what could it cause? dont get me wrong peter is a nice guy but this is what he told me. says the floater being loose will not do anything. wouldnt cause anything to crack or hurt a thing is basicly what they said. said it is mounted to the crank not the trans the clutch is the only thing that actually touches the trans. he said the reason why the trans cracked is cause the g56 is junk period!

so basicly my understanding here we can throw an unbalanced clutch kit on our trucks with no issues. (ya right)

this is how i see it the flywheel is mounted to the crank. the floater being loose to this extent causes a vibration right? the vibration moves through the crank to the block. moves through the adapter which caused the adapter to crack- which caused my bell housing to crack. ect.ect

the first thing that cracked was my tcase. as soon as i seen that i pulled both drivelines checked joints. no probs. so i took them and had them ballanced they told me there was nothing wrong with the lines. i had probs else where.

this happened to me about a month ago. it has been beating on me and getting me more pissed off. so i had to vent it cost me 2300 for trans and tcase. that broke from not my fault.

sorry for the long post guys. post your thoughts. i will be posting a video of the floater loose.

thanks alot

Sorry to hear about that brother my . Question where did you actually find the roll pin. The g56 is a pretty tough tranny they are far from junk.

Damn that is a kick in the junk, coors! Hate to hear it man. :sad::ouch:

From a vendors point of view? A vendor nor manufacturer would or could stand behind other parts than what you were sold. (Trans, bell housing etc etc) in other words even if you bought a factory clutch and it exploded and ripped everything apart no one would cover any damages, how could they? They would be put of business in a flash! Who knows why other components cracked, I can say I've broken dd clutches and replaced damaged ones but I've yet to see any brand clutch cause mass carnage except in pulling applications.
I'm not trying to bash on you but when you buy performance parts and mod you're truck, only you hold the liability for damages. a manufacturer or vendor might try to help you but their not required, how could they determine that you didn't do a 4k 4x4 drop of the clutch? Hope it all works out!

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The roll pins have nothing to do with anything, that's just the new style they use to keep that center plate quiet so it doesn't sound like your truck is falling apart when you push in the clutch. If you remember the old style sb dd clutches, the first designs had nothing to quiet down the clutch. Then they started installing little rubber pads on the ends of the locating tabs but they always fell off after the clutch had about 5 miles on it and be loud like the originals. Your clutch is the latest design to quiet clutch operation, has nothing to do with wether the clutch stays together or flys apart. If anything the pins might have got wedged some how between the fly wheel and block plate and caused cracking but they don't seem that stout. Im not really a fan of sb but, I doubt the intermediate plate free floating caused your problems.

the pins was where they was suppose to be but in 2 peices.

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--quote-- If you remember the old style sb dd clutches, the first designs had nothing to quiet down the clutch. Then they started installing little rubber pads on the ends of the locating tabs but they always fell off after the clutch had about 5 miles on it and be loud like the originals. Your clutch is the latest design to quiet clutch operation, has nothing to do with wether the clutch stays together or flys apart. --quote--

this was my first dd. but i have heard about what your talking about before. but my question to that. i would think the tolerences would be alot tighter the 1/4'' all the way around right? my reasoning is that is alot of weight to be throwing around egg shaped on a crank? am i wrong? the pins are there on the new ones when they spin the clutch kit up ballancing it. if you let the floater go where ever you could never get it ballanced. which is going to play hell on everything else in my eyes.

thanks for the opinions guys:tu: thats what im looking for:c:

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here are some pics. can somone help me post the video i cant get it to post. the video is the goodie

VIDEO0270_zps4a32128c.mp4 Video by nkoster83 | Photobucket

ok guys here is the video and pics agin but watch the video and see what you think

Idk how they balance them but it only floats when you push in the clutch. So if they are balancing the whole assy the plate would be held in place by pressure plate. THe old style had very little clearance. The style you have is the style with bumpers that has holes drilled in it for the pins. Driving down the road everything would be sandwiched together, it wouldn't constantly be flopping around. Only when you are on the clutch. Like I said idk about balancing a clutch but, I wouldn't think it would be too far off balance in a 1/4 inch of play. I believe you would have felt it if it was off that much.

I'm about positive. The clutches are ballanced as unit not peice by peice. That's why you have To line up the marks to hold them ballanced. When they ballance the clutch it has the pins. Once the pins are gone your clutch system with the slop mine has is way off ballance. Yes the presssure plate is going to hold the floater. But is it where its suppose to be? Not even close the floater is moving to its now heavy side. Throwing the complete system out of ballance.