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-   -   6.5 stalling (https://www.dieselbombers.com/6-2l-6-5l-performance/66710-6-5-stalling.html)

jasonduke5 01-11-2011 07:55 AM

Sounds like i m having the same type of problem. I have the IP replaced and fixed it for about a year and started again. So i dont think it was the IP. i wouldnt even say it fixed for a year.

thisguy5674 01-11-2011 12:12 PM

yes and i replaced the lp which is the fuel pump on the frame rail correct?

jasonduke5 01-11-2011 02:50 PM

No the pump on the frame rail is your LP (Lift Pump). The IP is the injector Pump on the top of your motor right in the middle of the valley between the heads. It is where your PMD is. This is all new to me but i have already replaced them so thats why i know where they are

thisguy5674 01-11-2011 11:49 PM

ya i know thats what i said i have replaced the lp and pmd

gmguy 03-03-2011 01:34 AM

1 thing you need to make shure that you have the highest cold cranking amp batteries
at least 750 or higher - this will make shure the pmd isn't damaged during cranking due
to low voltage - also you need to check your ground at the passenger rear of the cyclinder head they tend to vibrate & brake the wires or terminals - also add star washers to the connections to help get a better ground

wilsonwiley 06-28-2011 06:41 PM

I heard the very same thing from a guy, and his Oil Pressure Switch was the pronblem, his oil press. guage was working, and everything, but his test said his lift pump was bad, when he opened the copper petcock at the front top of the engine the one designed to drain off sediment and water separated by the fuel filter, if the engine stalls when you open this petcock, supposidly the lift pump is bad, and so he bought the lift pump and oil pressure switch, replaced the switch and the lift pump came to life and the problem went away, try it its cheap and makes since to me. good luck, ..Let me know if this works. please.

gmguy 07-04-2011 09:44 AM

thanks for the info. I found the oil switch was the problem & now it runs like a champ


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