Real power for the 6.2 Your best ideas and advice
 

I've been messing around w/several diesels as of late. In a previous post I asked for advice on a 85' 6.2 that ended up being bad. I've since moved on and stole a 91' 6.2 J-code that runs better than my Power stroke, but not faster. It's a 1/2 ton 2wd long bed auto. It's light and seems to have pretty good snap. I sold the 6.5 TD stuff when the other deal went south and now I want to start fresh.
1. What are the best free mods I can can do?
2. How do I turn up the pump on this engine compaired to a Ford?
3. Will I gain any power by killing the EGR and restrictions ascociated?
4. I'm looking into inj's, which are the best, cheapest and recomended? I've heard that Marine inj's are placeibo, that they don't acctualy do anything?
5. If/when I decide to go turbo, which 1? I've all but ruled-out the banks because of the flawed design of the exhaust (dumps 4 cyl worth of spent gas onto no7 like factory) I'm considering a divorced style turbo under the cab. Will the stock oil pump be enough to push several ft of oil?

Be real guys, I know most of the answers but want more opinions. I've got a PSD and a Cummins but my heart is with the old IDI's, so no "swap talk". I know there is a wealth of info out here and I'm going to post on a couple sites.
Bottom line is I'd like to have somewhere in the 200-225hp range and 400-500 ft lbs. I know this is do-able but frowned on because of the perceived weekness of the 6.2. And I already know about EGT, Boost and tranny temp gauges and am ordering them soon.
I will be running a continuous post so feel free to join in anytime. I will be testing the truck as I go along pulling a trailer and empty. I'll keep fuel records as well so there will be a lot to learn for everyone. My 1st task is replacing the tranny, it lost 3rd & 4th but the truck came w/another 1. Not bad for $350 huh?

Heres your chance to gloat and show off fella's, tell me everthing and leave out nothing :gj::gj::gj::gj::gj:

well first off a j code 6.2 has no emissions controls on it so you dont have to worry about that. and since you dont want to hear about any of the things that can happen ill just give you the facts. you need to turn the fuel screw at first a 1/8 of a turn. then i guess keeping turning it till your EGTS go out of the roof.

if you get a good set of Heath Marine injectors hey will work and add horsepower. if you get crappy chinese ones they will not and could seriously damage ur engine.

as far as a turbo go get a F code 6.5 manifold. then you need to order a A Team Turbo. the best turbo for these motors yet. with this turbo you will have no need for fancy turbos under the truck or in the bed or whatever.

Good advice, i love the "EGT's through the roof". I'm putting together a set of drawings for some headers. I've been measuring and think I can fab a set that run out the front then up to a Y collector the into a PSD turbo. It will set right on top of the intake. If I decide to run a turbo that is. Who are the Heath Inj's made by? Why do you say "No emissions"? Not yanking your chain just explain. Can I remove the EGR? and the air pump? Also where are the F code intakes found? Is that the 92-94 HD N/A?

OK, I got the J from the pump. I just assumed that's what it meant. I must have an S then, I'll check in the morning. The turbo over the intake would resemble the rest of the modern diesel V8's. The reason for doing so is A. it give the competing gasses a chance to equalize B. it keeps the moisture in shock/suspended. C. and the most important is elminating the reversion caused by the factory system. There was an article once at least 10 years ago about this, the HP jumped 35 and the TQ by 50 as I recall using the factory turbo on equalized exhaust. The dirty secret I've found in many of the shops is the 6.2 6.5 is very compateble with the early psd's and 12V cummins just by equalizing the exhaust and turning-up the pump. I'll do before and after to let everyone see for sure.

This thread is helping me immensely. Not to hijack your thread but, where is the fuel screw?

no problem. this thread should help you

Fuel Screw Thread

Thanks SO much Woody!

take the leafs outta your fuel pump along with 3 govoner weights

6.2 power
 

I know it's been little while since you mentioned it and I'm new here but, stans headers makes headers for the gm 6.2/6.5 NA to fit the old chevy's (they cost $380 if I remember correctly) I'm saving up for a set right now, they looks 100% sweet buddy of mine had a set

Yeah, im not sold on h/o injectors. It is the i/p that controls the amount of fuel given to the cylinders. Marine injectors have higher pop pressures which in turn give the injector a "better" spray pattern. So a better spray will burn better. However with the higher pop pressures they put more "stress" on the i/p. But take it for what its worth. I would just stick with stock injectors and turn your i/p up like woody stated. Not much in the line for free mods on a 6.2. If it was a 6.5 there would be a little more... Like woddy said, if you buy a turbo, get an att, you can get them for about or cheaper the cost of buyin a gmx turbo (stocker). The manifolds off a 6.5 td engine will bolt right up, i even have a set if your interested. You will also need an intake. The s intake is egr, the f isnt. I also have a upper and lower f intake set if your interested. Its all how you want to go, but the best way for more power is go turbo. You will see a little better fuel mileage too. I really dont think adjusting the i/p will give you that much more power. People have also used dodge turbos on these engines too....

ive learned a little info over this last month that i didnt know and i guess the marine injectors actually do shorten the life of the IP. to tell the truth they dont add a whole bunch of power but if you are looking for all the power you can ,make with a 6.2 or 6.5 marine injectors will help you get there

I'm gettin ready to put new head gaskets on my truck and ARP head studs. Along with marine injectors. A rep on here got me a deal on a place that rebuild injectors with 100% bosch parts 400 to get them rebuilt and 600 for rebuilt ones with the core charge. I have a bigger crossover pipe and a 3 inch downpipe and am making the rest 4 inch exhaust. After I get my truck up and running I'm gonna get a GL4 chip from heath diesel. I also already have the heat sink pmd wit the number 9 resistor and my waste gate wired shut I'll keep you guys posted when i start tearin my engine down. We'll see how much power it'll make.

Im doing basically the same build, mine will hopefully be in my truck before this winter. I hope she will move pretty good, but most of all be super reliable...

i will have the basically the same mods but i think eventually ill get a ATT and i might put nitrous in too just to play around with some midly built duramaxs into thinking they got beat by a lowly 6.5

Has already happened to a few unsuspecting DMAXers, Strokes, Cummins that saw the 6.5 Hummer badge on mine that figured it would be an easy win for them. A ATT equipped truck with NoS & pane soon to hit the dyno next month or so, I talked to a guy that bought it other nite, a similarly outfitted truck with GM-4 rolled 303rwhp last year, that truck was limited by the turbo, hoping the ATT adds in some extra grunt.

I'm maxed out on air now, need some more fuel to go with it.

SWEET!!!

Turbine Doc, send me a pm will you?

how much air is maxed out. i got my stock turbo and if i punch it i get bout 11 pounds of boost to build and my crossover pipe is leaking a lil.

I put 6.5 injectors in my 6.2 and in my opinion they work great,a littel more tourqe,better mileage,definatley more smoke,starts a bit better to,I don't really think u need to spend the money on the marine injectors,6.5 ones work great and are'nt to overboard with the injector pump

Water/mist injection. High Performance Water Mist injection Custom tuned for application

watch how much power you try to get before it flys alot trust me i know