DUAL THERMOSTATS UPGRADE?
 

I HAVE A 96 6.5 WITH A 130 GPM WATER PUMP AND A SINGLE 180 STAT, WITH THE NEW 1997+ FAN AND CLUTCH COMBO, BUT MY TEMPS DO STILL RISE IF I PUT MY FOOT IN IT! I HAVE BOUGHT THE DUAL STAT HOUSING AND 180 STATS, I HAVE NOT INSTALLED THEM YET, JUST WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS, AND WHAT RESULTS THEY HAD?

Keep your foot out of it and you wont have a problem! lol

My 93 had the dual on it when I bought it, so I can't tell you what the difference was. But I know that currently my engine never runs hot. Only one time has the temp touched 200, but I was hauling about 7,500 lbs that day. Btw, factory 93 water pump and cooling fan.

On my 96 K2500 Sub, it made a good difference. Well worth the effort.

where is the best place to get the twin stat set up?

Cheapest place would be a pull-a-part. IIRC, RockAuto wans something like $150-$175 for one.

yeah I checked out rock auto, frieght to aus in expensive too. how much luck would I have chasing one up from the wreckers do you think, and could anyone suggest who to go to, its hard gettimg that stuff from this end. thanks heaps

what about heaths setup, fan, fan clutch, water pump and stat. $760 though! he prefers to go the single stat path. which is an interesting read and has the research to back it up. I have installed a new radiator new condenser, 4 inch exhaust, custom cold air intake and had the fan clutch tested... still gets hot unloaded going up steep hills in 2nd at 2500 rpm.... without the stat. only thing I can think of is maybe the pump is letting me down. ute weights 3100kg, dual cab full size tub. 4.11 gear ratio with 4l80e.

I noticed that the t-stat housing is the highest part of the system. With the single t-stat housing, the rad return hose is the highest, whereas on dual t-stat setup, the hose outlet is slightly lower than the top of that housing.

I have the duals and the original 93-style water pump and it likes to put an air pocket in the housing quite regularly. I'm not sure if my pump has a reduced flow due to age/buildup or if it simply doesn't flow enough to push that air bubble out. The temp comes up to about 210 idling (while warming up, before the throttle is pushed), but almost immediately after setting off, the temp drops to 195. It cools down extremely fast. Once the take off purge takes place, it runs without flaw. If I decide to check the coolant level before I start it, this takes place, but if I haven't checked it, it works flawless from the start.

Hope this helps...

Hey aus=farrier are you saying the truck is heating up without the T-stat installed? If so this is the problem as the coolant has no cool down time in radiator,I have a single t-stat set up myself and run at the second mark below the 210 degree mark with 15,000 lbs behind my truck in somewhat mountainous terrain,But with a new radiator,fan clutch,belt tensioner and AC/DELCO T-stat