Diesel Bombers - head bolts 05 6.0 powerstroke

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head bolts 05 6.0 powerstroke

My wife has a 2005 F250 with 6.0 powerstroke, truck has 87000 miles,I've had no problems with the EGR cooler.I'm thinking of doing EGR delete before there is a problem & installing a tuner. Will the stock head bolts fail after the extra boost? Can the head bolts be upgraded one at a time with out changing head gaskets?:yeah:

The EGR cooler isn't the problem. The oil cooler is. Get gauges before installing tunes. With custom tunes your HGs will like with the stock bolts on mild tuning. IMHO if your gonna stud it pull the heads and machine them then install studs.

If u read some of the other threads on this site, you'll c that the majority of us suggest doing it right by removing the heads n having them decked, then installing headstuds and new headgaskets. otherwise ur throwing money away

the reason 90% of people sugest pulling the heads is because of the design. all the diesel motors up till the 6.0 had 6 bolts around each cylinder, which equals greater clamping force. the 6.0 only has 4 bolts. so when u remove one bolt, it will allow the head to flex some. not saying that it will cause HG problems, but has a lot greater chance than any other

It just doesn't make sense to go through all of that trouble and NOT pull the heads. Why not just have them decked and start with a perfectly flat surface? Then you KNOW it's done right, instead of going through all that, putting them in one at a time, then blowing the gaskets in 10 miles of driving...

To answer your question, some of these trucks blow headgaskets stock, others run race tunes daily on stock bolts and have no issues. Russian Roulette.

It's not so much the boost that blows the gaskets (since boost is only a measurement of restriction anyways), rather the timing. Excessive timing will cause cylinder pressures to spike. You can tell this when the heads are removed, and you can see the spray pattern on the piston. A good custom tune on an SCT, most of the spray pattern is right in the bowl, where it should be. Some of the "other programmers" like diablo, or Edge or whatever, are often way out of the bowl, causing huge cylinder pressures, yet, still don't seem to make the same power...

I'm going off on a tangent here, but you get the point. Boost isn't the gasket popper, timing is.:c:

Why is getting the heads decked so important? I would get that if you've already blown an HG, but if you're replacing gaskets as a preventative measure, why would you think the head isn't flat already?

Who's to say they're not flat sitting there? A stock 6.0 with slightly warped heads might hold up, add a tuner and pop. Simply putting studs in, wont get it flat again. It is just plain ol good engine building practice to ensure everything is clean and done RIGHT, which means, pull the heads, deck them.

Also besides the flatness, what if your head is devloping a crack? What if you have burnt up valves, or what about the valve guides? They crack a LOT on these heads.

Now that engine is out of warranty,I want to install a tuner because truck is slow pulling out in traffic. The info I was given, it will cause HG failure.

Not guaranteed, but probably a good chance with a hot tune.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2FordStrokers (Post 743300)

This is his son talking, logged into my dads acct.
Im a Ford tech, cert in all 4 engines, but i dont do much work on them, mainly gas.

Im trying to keep the amount i have to work on the truck as low as possible lol
If the cooler fails, it makes a giant mess and can pop the head gaskets.
Int. the truck when hot would run rough at idle and low rpm. Ran all the tests; egr valve pos. test failed. My dad pulled the EGR and found it carbon-ed up big time. I told him how to clean it and to see what would happen. Turns out the ICP connector was causing the problem. Unplug and replug fixed it and i have a new connector for him.

Wouldn't hurt to test the FICM either, they are known to fail. It's easy enough to do and you may not notice it slowly dying over time, it will cause poor acceleration and poor mileage

Its possible the turbo is rusting. My mom doesnt ride it hard.
It gets all the engine maint. that it should get.
I have not driven it to see how bad the lag really is, but dad is pretty good about noticing/gauging it.

Yes, these 6.0's need to be worked and driven. Long idling time and driving like grandma kill these turbos

I told him to block off the cooler and take it out, in case he needs it for the sniffer.
take the baffle out the downpipe and take off the muffler.
If he needed more, put a programmer on it. But it could get him in to trouble; which is what were trying to avoid.

Where do you live? Cali is really the only place they do actual visual emissions testing, anywhere else I'd lose the cooler and valve. I don't know how anyone drives a stock 6.0. Once you've driven a tuned 6.0, you wont go back! Also what baffle in the downpipe? There shouldn't be one... just the cat and muffler. You can get deletes for both for around $100 total, or just get a 4" turbo back, which is what I recommend.

Most of the heads were flat enough according to ford spec, but when a rod lets go the valves are trash and so is the head so it got replaced.

Yeah my heads were flat according to ford, when they put my ARP's in for me, that was the SHORTEST amount of time I've had headgaksets stay together. Blew the gaskets 3x now. Once with dealer installed ARP's, their flatness spec sucks and new heads come in out of spec sometimes.

I know what you guys are talking about with the flower pattern. I did not know it was from timing; i was told it was from too much fuel. When the 6.4 came around there was alot of that going on, along with toast bottom ends.

Correct, the injector is told to dispense a certain amount of fuel, but it is based off the crankshaft position sensor, so it knows where the piston is traveling in the cylinder. Each injector has a spray "pattern" it does, and it sprays at certain angles, this angle is relative to the piston location, so it will try and spray the correct angle at the correct piston heigh to get the most fuel into the bowl. 6.4's are easy to get big power from with compounds and a common rail fuel setup. Their headbolts are much larger from the factory, but they're still plagued with the same crummy head design from the 6.0. They're almost identical heads.

Dad, you might want to try the easy exhaust stuff before you tear into the engine to try and elevate the lag and if needed a low power setting from a programmer. SCT like someone mentioned.

A stock 6.0 is just a laggy sumbeech. A tuned FICM is supposed to help throttle response like no ones business, and wouldn't really be anywhere near as risky as a programmer. I'd still run a street tune from an SCT without worry of gaskest if it was me.

Replies in red above brotha. Stick around here, we can help you get that 6.0 running right! Welcome to both son and dad! :c:

Thanks Mdub!

Its been a few months since i last reprog. the PCM for him, he got bad fuel mileage when he drove to Missouri vs here in Louisiana.

The only thing i have a question about is the tuned ficm. Are you talking about the FICM being reprogrammed via SCT?

The next time he is out my way i will try and do all the tests i can on it. Im going to eat w/ him tomorrow and i will have a chance to drive it and see how bad it is.

IIRC, dad told me the truck starts to take off around 8-10mph, which is still better than a stock 6.4

Done EGR delete, cat delete, & muffler delete on 2005 6.0 on wife's F250. She loves the new sound, now her foot is heavier on throttle. Delete pipes from Pure Diesel Power fit love a glove,installed coolant filter sinister.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2FordStrokers (Post 744067)

You can not tune the FICM via the SCT, impossible. You can take the FICM off, send it to a place like Innovative Diesel, or Swamps, or PHP and they can reprogram at their shop. Or you can read how to do this yourself. Or PM me for info, I can help here too. The issue with them is the boards inside have MINIMAL solder from the factory, over time from heat and vibration they loosen up and cause problems. You can google how to fix this or PM me for my number, I can walk you through it.

These 6.0's aren't noted for their quick spool up haha.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2FordStrokers (Post 750273)

The deletes really make those things sound nice. What EGR delete did you use? Good call on the coolant filter.

A programmer will make that thing really sound nice. Stock tuning and deletes still sounds like a V8 gasser a bit, the hot tunes make that thing RASPY!

:c:

I used the basic delete kit from Custom Diesel for $109.00, parts fit perfect. After the deletes, if hot tunes were installed, is there still a chance head bolts could fail?

Yeah, it's a VERY good chance.

When so I need studs

Hey guys I'm new to this forum and relatively new to the diesel world . My question is at what point do I need head studs. Every now and then I tow about 12k lbs but 99% of the time it's just my daily driver. I'll list my "upgrades " below.

Afe stage 2 cold air intake
6 inch turbo back exhaust with 7" stack .
Sinister egr delete
Sinister coolant filtration system.
Sct livewire programmer .
Reply

The main issue is engeneering. Every new diesel is wrong.from what i read and experienced with other problem diesels is heat. Diesels dont like like but new emmission are engennered for it. Want to save a.lot of head ache. First i stall a 160°F thermostat. If you can not buy one make a resistor ring(pull center or drill holes and reinstall) and run front bra in winter
Then every 5-10 tanks run 10-20L real B100( not i ternet fake stuff) if availible if not get.tank to low fuel add good quality rape seed vegtable oil and run engine then refill with diesel. Best to do this when you know you will use alot of fuel. Failure to use most or all of vegtable oil or B100 in cold areas under 40°F weather will result in oil clinging to emmustions in fuel and clogging up fuel system as it cools down.
Part of All emmsion failures is due soot build up on parts in exhust . vegtablele oil or real B100 burn so clean that it will take this away and give much trouble free use.
If you have secondary cooling system in emmission then you need to drill holes in it as well to allow more coolant to flow..
Keep it cold keep it clean, keep idle to min. And you will have better luck.

The main issue is engeneering. Every new diesel is wrong.from what i read and experienced with other problem diesels is heat. Diesels dont like it but new emmission are engineered for it. Want to save a.lot of head ache. First i stall a 160°F thermostat. If you can not buy one make a resistor ring(pull center or drill holes and reinstall) and run front bra in winter
Then every 5-10 tanks run 10-20L real B100( not internet fake stuff) if availible if not get.tank to low fuel add good quality rape seed vegtable oil and run engine then refill with diesel. Best to do this when you know you will use alot of fuel. Failure to use most or all of vegtable oil or B100 in cold areas under 40°F weather will result in oil clinging to emulsions in fuel and clogging up fuel system as it cools down.
Part of All emmision failures is due soot build up on parts in exhust . vegtablele oil or real B100 burn so clean that it will take this away and give much trouble free use.
If you have secondary cooling system in emmission then you need to drill holes in it as well to allow more coolant to flow..
Keep it cold keep it clean, keep idle to min. And you will have better luck.