Yellow Jacket build thread.
 

Welp, starting a build thread:hellox:
I said I was going to leave this thing stock, but seeing yall have done with your trucks is kind of bugging me about mine. Plus this is the bombers site after all.

Here's what I've got planned so far, and probly in this order:

Coolant filter
Gauges (not sure if I'm going to go with the pillar set up or make something custom for the space in front of the center console.)
EGR delete
SCT tuner with a mild tunes
4 or 5 inch turbo back straight pipe with a 6 inch tip (probly gonna have to do some cuttting and hacking, I've got an idea of how I want to run it.)

And some kind of a drop in filter, Recomendations anyone?

And then a make over from Nadapud.

I really am looking for long life out of this truck. I'll address the stud issue one day. Am I missing anything there fellas?:humm: Feel free to chime in. I hope to get started with this thing as soon as I get my limosine fixed (:argh: nothing like 14 ft of unballanced drive line under a lincoln to make your day great) and as soon as the weather clears up to where I can drive the Stang.

I'll post picks as I go along:tu:.

I'd get the insight for gauges

Gauges are up to you, some like the monitors, others prefer stand-alone gauges (myself), but really both work just fine. Just don't go cheap on gauges.

I'd get an AFE drop in personally. Whatever brand filter you choose, try and get a dry filter, they seem to work great on our applications, and you can avoid the hassle of having to oil the filters.

Sounds like you are getting your ducks in a row though and the list of add-ons is a good choice.

:c:

What would you recomend for stand alone gauges? I bid on a watchdog for 175 on ebay, but then got out bid and decided to worry about it (started reading everone liked insight better) since I'm still on the fence with which I want....

I used Dipricol Optix, but they've been discontinued or shut down or something, starting to use Isspro EV2's now, really nice gauges. Autometer makes nice gauges too and has a huge selection.

Autometer Nexus is what im running, there a bit pricey but you get what you pay for

dang, you weren't kidding about pricey, nice though

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TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK!!!! BE HONEST PLEASE, BEFORE I BUY THE STEEL!!!!!

this is kinda what I got in mind for the front. I like the chrome, so I dont really want to do a bumper replacement. figured I'd have it color matched to the truck. 4 inch main round pipe with 3/8" wall, rest is 1/4"
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...er-concept.jpg

Since the rear bumper is cracked and has started to rust, I will fab up a full replacement, paint it yellow as well

imho i dont like it but its your truck so do whatever you like

well, thats why I'm asking. :tu:
I have been know to build crap, install it, and decide I dont like it the next day and take it off and through it off in a pile.

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I just need something to protect the front end, deer are bad out here by the game reserve.

i like the prerunners...why build when you can buy and paint or powdercoat...well i guess i dont have much time to fab something like that but thats me.

I'm a huge fan of prerunner bumpers, but that thing you have drawn up is straight up ugly. It's harder to pull of a clean looking prerunner bumper on a large truck like a superduty. A lot of the bumpers use small tubing and it doesn't look proportional to the size of the truck.

Here's the bumper style I ended up with on mine. I like the light/bar prerunner setups but really just did not see anything I liked for these, just went with a simple light bar setup...

Attachment 42297

Attachment 42298


Here's the Pro-Comp prerunner bar I had on my ranger...

Attachment 42299

Attachment 42300

well, due to the death threats :bat: that were sent to me and yalls input, I will not be going with a prerunner.......
:humm: well, I need to do something about my rear bumper.... here are my options
1. replace the chrome one
2. paint it
3. 2008 bumper
4. https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...out-bumper.jpg kinda feeling some chrome cleviss and my farmers plate on this one

paint it :tu:

fuel pump
 

look at a after market fuel pump...
this will take air out of fuel and filter down to 10 micron and some come with adjustable regulator..

I have installed the air dog two kit...c/w reg

the installation was not easy like i thought ....the fuel lines have to be modified...
See my installation post

jim

Little Luke, I like that rear bumper posted in that pic. Looks nice on there.

well, xcal2 is on the way, along with 6.4 banjo bolts and the upgraded fuel regulator kit. Guess I need to go on an get the stuff for the ccv reroute mod, I've got oil everywhere around the boots.

Anybody made there own egr delete? I've read about people modifying the stock cooler to block off the exhaust flow, anywrite ups on this? I came across an egr cooler for cheap, and can tig.

I'm cheap when it comes to my toys, it's in my nature. Plus like the whole fabrication challenge of these things.

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nvm, just found the how too for the egr delete!:tu:

Sounds like a good start bud. Just weld the freeze plugs in the end of the egr cooler. Make sure for the end that attaches to the downpipe to set it in 1/4" or so and FILL that whole area with weld, the up-pipe gets pretty warm and you dont want that blowing in.

That looks nice. I'd go matching paint. I notice the bumper on the front has bars around the head lights. My uncle's F-250 has that and I hate it. It reflects a little bit of the light back to me and just looks weird. I think the pre-runner you mocked up has potential, but you'd need to make sure it looks proportionate to the truck.

should I try and clean out the egr cooler before welding it shut? guy had it on his truck for about a month. It's not to dirty, but still cwould hate for something to happen and that crap gets into the coolant system. I bought the cooler and the down pipe for $25 shipped!:yeah:

No don't waste your time. Weld it up and be done with it. If anything fails, it will just fill with cooalnt, it's not like it will be circulating around cleaning the cooler out. Plus you're putting a coolant filter on down the road anyways right? :pca1:

This is true, ok, welding her up tonight then. If I remember I'll take pics.

Dont forget what I said about the exhaust side of the cooler, push the freeze plug in a little ways (if that's what you're using) and fill it with weld, it needs to hold up to the heat from the up-pipe.

well, got it done. Once again, overkill is evident. Instead of freeze plus I used 3/16 inch stainless plate. Beveled the edges and tig welded them in place, I plugged the two ends of the cooler and one on the up pipe. I set the plates a 1/4 inch into the openings. Got it all done and then welded my vertical up and overhead certifications..... then I got bored while waiting on them to cool, and broke out th mig and filled the ends of the ends of the cooler untill they were flush, ground it down, then polished it. I'll get the picks up later.

Haha, nice! That should do it. That's the inexpensive EGR delete setup!

SOB!!! This build may be cut real short. went to my shop on saturday, and low and behold I find my door has been forced open. All of my tools are now gone. It's these damn scrappers in the area. Only reason I know it was them is because about 2000 pounds of my steel (not scrap, good stuff, still with the paint, which is worth way more to me then $265 a ton) plus about 1300 dollars worth of tools are gone.

I may have to sell this thing to make up some money. I got burnt last year for $9000 by R&R Construction out of Indianapolse. This crap is taking its toll.

That sucks to hear brother....

I think you have a crew cab right? Take the drivers side front door handle off and replace it with one from a rear door from a crew cab, it eliminates the key hole. Also look into Jimmy Jammers, very popular on our trucks. Inexpensive compared to being broke into as well.

Hope everything works out for ya!

Little Luke I like the bumper posted too... but my truck is all white so i want to get the 2008 work bumper its black, shiny and im sure it would paint better than a chrome bumper. For the front I really like the Road Armor bumpers but without top that blocks the grill.http://http://ok4wd.com/media/catalo.../1/p1-01_2.jpg

Ugh, back from the dead...

I'm on hold about the bumpers right now. Between my full time job, and two part time jobs, I've been alittle covered up. I've also got a guy wanting me to build him a prerunner bumper and roll bar for his ranger, so the stuff that pays comes first in line. I guess I need to invest in a camera so I can post some stuff, I cant get the photos off of my phone.
I guess for what its worth here is what I've got so far.
6.4 banjo bolts
upgraded fuel regulator spring
xcal 2, still needing some tunes
recon cab lights, smoked
homemade egr delete.
I just did some swapping with a boy for a 10ft stick of 5 inch exhaust pipe.
Just ordered a sinister coolant kit today.

I'm still scratching my head about a down pipe. I'm going to run a super truck style exhaust, and after lookin, I'm pretty sure I can take the 5 inch almost all the way up to were the down pipe shoots up to the turbo. I wont go that route if I get an after market downpipe though. Any input on this?

Side note. While digging around in my shop looking for a electric impact (which I believe was also stolen:argh:) I came across this electric fan I had for when I planned to turbo charge my station wagon. Would there be any benifit of setting it up as a pusher fan in front of the radiator? I think it is 16". It's already paid for so :w2:

oh, one more thing. I've got oil on the bottom half of the compressor side of the turbo:ouch:. What have I got here?

Ok, I'm done.

anything bigger than a 3.5" downpipe is going to be a PITA to get in and keep off the firewall. I'd say just run it to the stock down pipe if you're trying to save money. Wont really notice much anyways.

Electric fans are not real popular with these, as I blieve the issue was trying to find a fan that was capable of pulling the CFM's of the stocker, and I don't think there are any options out there. If you don't tow at all, maybe, but if you do, keep the stocker.

Could be a turbo seal.

I plan on keeping the stocker on, just thinking of adding the electric one as an auxilory for when I do tow. its rare I make a long haul, but my boss does come up with some auctions 4 or 5 hrs away where I will be bringing back around 10000 lbs of equipment.

Well, had my first no start condition today. Knew it was coming. Well, I'm gonna order the updated stc fitting kit, dummy plugs, and stand pipes. should I go on and order this updates turbo oil drain pipe, shipping wont go up if I do and its just a $30 part. Any need for it?

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Oh, almost forgot pics.
homemade egr delete
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...round-3-8s.jpg
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...ess-welded.jpg
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...3-delete-2.jpg

My "boom pipe". stock down pipe with 5 inch pipe 4 ft long. I've already changed it. I'll post picks later. I will run the 5 inch all the way up to down pipe where it turns and goes under the truck. I'm wanting either a 6 or 7 inch tip around 20 inchs long.
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...-boom-pipe.jpg
It really woke the truck up. Right now I'm running super truck where it exits at a 45 degree with a 30 degree slash cut.

I would definitely get the turbo drain piece yes.

ok, parts are ordered and on the way. I made some progress tonight, turbo is out. wasn't bad with enough tools. more this weekend.:tu:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...gree-slash.jpg

Oh,:humm: is there anything I could port and polish that would benifit me, even alittle. This is my first blown vehicle, So I'm not 100 percent on what you want for the best flow. I do alittle head work, but I'm not getting that deep. I'm thinking something with the intake manifold, intake elbow, or turbo.. just thinking, it will be tuesday at best before my parts are in, so I need to kill time.:tu:

Ad do I need new intake manifold gasket as well?:c:

Go ahead and pick up the intake manifold gaskets, you may not need them, but cheap enough that you should probably just have them in case.

Don't bother wasting time with port cleaning anything. The biggest area of restriction is the intake manifold, but to really open that up, it literally needs to be opened. Check out GoGo's setup. GoGoDiesel Stage 1 Intake Manifold w/ EGR Delete The only true performance intake manifold on the market for the 6.0L powerstroke. [GGD-6LSTG1] - $1,200.00 : Direct Injection Performance - GoGoDiesel.Com, Your Source For All Things Diesel!

The heads are also super restrictive on these motors, but for what you have for mods there is no justification in doing anything. On an N/A motor, porting helps tremendously, we're just stuffing air in with a turbo. Instead of wasting time/money on porting, it's quicker/easier to just slap some nitrous on, or put a bigger turbo to cram more air in.

My 2 cents.

ok, I'm not gonna screw with it then. I really dont like that intake elbow though, but it can be messed with after its all back together.......

Can anybody help me out here. I'm looking but coming up short handed and confused.
I need to know how to do the 58v hot mod, and where the the stand pipes and dummy plugs are, and how to get to them. I've got the intake off and I'm down to the hpop and I'm waiting on parts.

I have a PDF file of how to do the 58V mod yourself, but I'm having a heck of a time sourcing the parts to do it with. I have not been able to find them, or if I do, it's a minimum lot buy of something like 5000 parts. Send me your email via PM and I'll shoot you the PDF of the mod for the FICM.

As for the stand pipe and dummy plugs, I believe a picture was recently posted around here actually. PowerstrokeTech87 I think posted one, or if not I'm sure he can. You can always go here: DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books and find your coffee table book, they have almost everything you can imagine in them.:c:

thanks those helped out alot.:tu:
I've only been able to work an hours a night, but I have the driver side finished, replace the stand pipe and the dummy plug. low and behold, the o rings on the dummy plug were blown in half. it kind of made me feel good to find an issue so it felt like I was acomplishing something.

I'm going to do the passenger side tommorrow. I have the fender well pulled out so I can get the valve cover off, but once I'm in there, is there enough clerance to replace the stand pipe???? it looks tight:td:

Always nice to have a sense of accomplishment on something like this! Glad ot hear it!

I'm not sure about the clearance issue, I'm sure if you do some searching you can find that answer though, you're not the first person to try and replace stand pipes and dummy plugs.

Ok, I'm done, and ol' yeller is running like a champ:jump:

Ok, Word of advise for anyone who is going to attemp to remove the passenger side valve cover, remove the fenderwell, you will have access to all the valve cover bolts. Next, remove the heat shield and cover to the condenser/ blower (not sure what else you would call it), and you will have plenty of space to remove the standpipe, dummy plug, and oil rail. you will also have enough space to put the new standpipe in after you remount the rail.

also, nothing is as much of a hope crusher as the time it takes to finally get it to restarted. It finally fired, ran alittle rough, but after a few minuted of idleing it smoothed out.

What i got done, 6.4 banjo bolts, upgraded fuel pressure regulator, cleaned the turbo, sinister coolant filter, my homade egr delete, zoodad mod, upgraded turbo drain pipe,
stc fitting, upgraded dummy plugs and stanpipes.

I had 4 blown orings, which I guess was enough to cause my hot, no start issue.

now I'm on to building my 4 inch down pipe, headache rack, new rear bumper, install my recon smoked cab lights, some kind of light bar. I'll post some picks to let yall tell me what you think of my designs. And I'm going to start looking for parts to do the hot 58v mod, now that I've got time.

looking good bud