OK, I guess I'll just have to try it, maybe this spring when it warms up a bit. anybody else out there still run this stuff?????:choochoo::choochoo:

Our 6BTs are cheap and easy to fuel. We also have a great injection pump to manage it.

I considered propane more back when I had a 6.2L and an early Powerstroke. For these engines, propane is a cheaper shortcut for some extra power and efficiency.

Personally I have no knowledge or experience using propane on anything cept keepin warm... But I do have a buddy that's currently running a small-ish homemade system on his '96 3500. From the little I've gathered, it's running great and he actually have noticeble power and economy gains. I can't give you any numbers, charts or anything but I guess it works pretty good, he hasn't had any problems with it and no accidents. I've seen it and from what I remember he had it pre-turbo hooked through the intake ducting. Don't know about power sourcing or psi settings but he must being something right.

My $.02

yep...I'm running a fogger system in my 91 Cummins TurboDiesel. I average about 28 to 29 mpg in my fully loaded D350 welding truck....8950lbs. worth.
I have mine regulated down to .75 PSI, is activated my microswitch, main bottlepressure doesn't enter the system till my oil pressure is above 5 psi.
Bottle lasts me 4 months.

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Only cost me $125 for my system, but I build things like that all the time....

What size bottle do you run? And thank you for the info man. Deffinately good stuff to know.


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just remember if those solenoids where designed for butane then a regulator is a must, installed before the solenoids. propane is roughly 3x the pressure of butane.

dont want those solenoids giving out and dumping full pressure into the engine

I'm running a # 20 bottle, under the bed, mounted upright. Coming off the bottle, I have a acetylene regulator mounted to the bottle, then on the regulator, I have it adjusted to 5 PSI. Then, theres the solenoid, once my oilpressure hits the switch, it activated and a light on my dash comes on, opens the line off the bottle thats regulated down to 5 psi.
Upon mashing on the accelerator, a microswitch triggers a 2nd solenoid ( so the motor is above idle when the propane is injected), just ahead of it though there is a small regulator there that adjusts the final pressure down to .75 psi, then thru the regulator.
After the regulator, the end of a hose whose fitting is mounted into a alum. tube that feeds my turbo. Inside that fitting, I have a small jet that sprays a really fine mist....

Works good. on my control panel in the cab, I have a master switch that I can hit to kill the power to the solenoids should a accident happen. I have a led to light when the master switch is on, when the first solenoid is on (Operated by oil pressure switch) and then when the microswitch turns the 2nd solenoid on.
You notice a slight increase in power, but its alot peppier, mileage is awesome.

Are you saying when you are cruising it is set at .75 lbs but at wot it is at 5 lbs....I haven't started installing my kit yet but it's getting closer.

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Sounds like he is saying it is at 0.75psi unless at idle and it is nothing then. This small induction at cruising speeds can help with fuel mileage. So .75 psi at any rpm but idle.

if you run a vaporizor/ regulator, you dont have to worry about liquid burps. they arent that high on ebay. its what all the big kits run. its also what propane forklifts use. it uses the heat from the engine coolant to the heater core to vaporize any liquid that may have "burped". im building a kit right now. using the vaporizor and a forklift tank. most of the vaporizors come with a silinoid valve already on them. you can have it activate via oil pressure sensor in the charged side or a micro switch in the cab. and i dont know first hand but i have heard it said that you set the regulator up at an idle, when the engine starts idling rough its good to go under load and boost. just my 2cents. hope you find it useful