Reliable Power for Daily Driver
 

To start, I've been creepin' this website for a while searching similar combos, but as I'm currently deployed I can't get crazy in depth before my time on a computer is up.

Starting with: 91.5 12V intercooled, all stock. Backed w/ Getrag 360, but planning on switch to G56 in a year or two. Motor is in W250 right now, but being put into a 68 K20 Suburban when I get back to the states.

What I want: Obviously more power, but coupled with reliability and no annoying amount of smoke. A little is okay when jumping on it, but I'm not some 13 year old trying to smoke everything in site. Hopefully 300hp/600ft*lbs of streetable daily driver (including winter in NoDak).

What I have access to for cheap: S300G 62/64/13 w/ T3 Flange and 4" PacBrake combo.

Plans:
Above turbo 62/64/13
Big 'ol air filter
3.5" down pipe
4" exhaust exiting behind passenger rear tire
7x.010 injectors (CPP rings a bell)
Denny T stage 1 fuel pin (from memory, could be a different actual name)
3200 Spring
60# exhaust springs, but have also seen some that are beehive and 160#? Pro/cons of each
Stock 1st gen intercooler, or 99-03 Ford 7.3 w/ aluminum ends if it fits in the 68 K20.


Any advice on if this is a good route and changes I should make to the plans?

Thanks,
Andrew

Looks like 300 hp would be about right, also you can turn in the fuel screw. welcome to DB, and thank you for your service. :choochoo::choochoo:

ok buddy i wouldnt put in 60 lb springs they really wont bennifit you tht much if you want only 300 hp the injectors i would go with sdx 5x12s for the road i would go ahead and do a 4in down pipe a denny t stage 2 or a m and h m4 fuel pin and a 4k gov spring because with your injectors and tht turbo you are goin to be pissed when you stop fueling at lower rpms i like the big honkn air filter butt prefer a big k&n just to keep things clean most deff swap in the oll 7.3 powerjoke innercooler and a ckutch wouldnt be a bad idea either buut that all just my opinion and before anything get at the least a pyro and boost gauge well good luck to ya man:tu:

Looks like a good combo to me. After that its all in the tuning.

60 lb springs are a good idea with the exhaust brake he plans on running. A 4" DP will do nothing put make his wallet lighter and the DennyT Stage 1 is a great DD pin. Same full fuel as the stage 2 but less aggressive getting to it, 4k springs are useless with his set-up.

You nailed it with the powerstroke intercooler, clutch and gauges.

i would go with some smaller injectors if all you are shooting for is 300hp. im going for 500hp with my 5x.012's def recommend them light on the smoke. 62/64/13 great charger little bit more laggy than stock enless you have th h1c turbo which i think you do but will allow for more ponies when you get bored with 300 LOL. how cheap is cheap? an HX35 or wh1c off a 2nd gen will move enough air for that, and they are quite cheap.

The HE351 off a 3rd gen would need some fab work but would be great on a truck like you want.

Thanks for the advice, and I was looking at some old pictures of my burb and I'm thinking the powerstroke cooler won't fit, so I might switch to a 2nd gen dodge intercooler, as it is shorter and wider to fit under my hood latch.

My thought on 3.5" vs 4" dp is that 3.5 might be a little easier to fit past my firewall, but I'll be fabricating this myself, so I'm not too worried about price. Also, the pacbrake isn't a full 4" ID, so if I match it and expand later it might help scavenge out of the turbo. Oh, I currently have an H1c, and I can't say how cheap the turbo was, but it is brand new S300G with used 4" pacbrake for less than a used HX35.

And I will be putting in a full complement of autometer gauges in the stock 68 dash to include:
Speedo
Coolant temp/fuel level/voltage/oil pressure
Tach
Oil Temp
Fuel Pressure
EGT
Boost

Any suggestions on if those should do it? Anything that I have that I don't need, or don't have that I need? I already own the ones in italics, but everything else isn't purchased yet, and I'm wondering what to do with the tach and how to hook it up, so more research for me to do when I'm back.

A build thread will be put up when I start this adventure. It's getting swapped stock, driven back to where I'm stationed, and then I'll start hopping it up, so a little bit for everybody. I need to get my ducks in a row to make this smooth, as I'm a short timer when I get back to the states.

Oh, and I can't do PMs yet, but a note for cummins freak: I wish that was me in Williston, but my truck isn't swapped yet, and it's still in southern California where I'm stationed, but look out come May when I'll be terrorizing the whole Dakota territory.

If it were me, I'd look hard at the M&H M2 or M3 fuel pin as they aren't near as aggressive in light to part-throttle, thus, not as smoky.

FYI:

stock IC'ed 1st gen inj - 6x.009" = .000380" (total cross sectional area)
7 x 0.0010 = .0005498"

Thanks for all the advice, and now that I'm back in the US with my donor 91.5 W250 and the 68 K20 I have a new question.

Can I swap turbos while leaving the stock injectors / pump settings. I have the S300CG in hand and have done some comparison to the W1C. This turbo has a larger exhaust flange and I would like to make the downpipe once. I don't think I'll have enough time to swap injectors/play with the pump and I don't want my test drive to be 2000 miles across the country.

I also have a quick picture of the donor and the soon to be recipient. (Actually most of my projects are in this pic.)

Attachment 39908
Attachment 39909

Watch when dealing with this guy!
He told me he'd let me have the remains of the truck he used as a donor if I knocked off some cash, THEN sold the truck out from under me and I'm now out $500 cash on the deal!


Mark.