fuel mileage and power?
 

I am going on a deployment in March and when i come back i am going to get a 2003 Dodge Cummins 4x4 quad cab. but the downside is that im going to be getting an automatic transmission. What can i do to add power (enough to haul an average size tractior) but when i haul it i dont want to feel it behind me, but my concern is that i have heard alot of bad things about the automatics blowing out after just a few mods. so what is an easy way of adding power to the motor that is cost effective and what will i have to do to the transmission?

to be honest the planetarys in most transmissions are the weakest links...then the bands and then the torque converter...... it has to hold the power in order to transfer the power....if your hauling there will be slippage...do what you can to eliminate slippage and weak points........call some one like monster transmissions or ATS transmissions.....either one make seroiusly tuff stuff.... but there is also the price ... if you can diy.... you will save you ass from being the next joke...:ouch:

Awesome! Thank you! What do u think about an exhaust, intake and edge power programer? How much power do u think that will make with a stage 4 ats transmission?

Re: fuel mileage and power?
 

We can help you with your transmission needs.

Luke

Ok an ats stage 4 should hold up to just about anything you can toss at it... might not be really needed... unless your making mad power numbers.... but over built is better than under built...
a 5.9 with a good straight 5" exhaust and a free flowing intake.. a three peice exhaust manifold and a tuner should run 400 or hp... maybe more depending on flow and tuner.. but thats no sloutch.... and fuel mpg's will go up with a good intake and exhaust.
:rocking:

thank you all for the advice on the transmission but i have chosen to go with a manual transmission but i have also compiled a list of things i am wanting to throw at it and i am wondering what kind of power this will make. also what kind of fuel pump should i get? and on the exhaust i did a very small amount of searching and all i could find is a 2 pc exhaust for an 03.

South Bend Dyna Max Double Disc Clutch (Incl. Flywheel) = $1,600

AFE BladeRunner Air Intake Manifold 46-10011 = $300

AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake System Type Cx 54-10412 = $300

ATS 2-Piece 24 VALVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD = $470

Silverline Aluminized SINGLE Exhaust System (Turbo-Back) DS103A = $300

BD-Power Turbo Boost Builder = $90

Edge Products Cummins Juice w/ Attitude CS/CTS = $1200

55 GAL FUEL TANK = $1,134

2003-2011 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 4x4 & 2wd - Firestone "Ride-Rite" Air Bag Helper
Springs (Rear) = $255

Firestone "Standard Duty" Air-Rite air system compressor (w/DUAL gauge control) = $300

BMF Front billet aluminum 2.0" coil spring spacer Dodge leveling kit = $200

I'm new at this forum and I drive a chevrolet now but I had a 2005 dodge 5.9 and stacked a diablo predator and the power puck, cold air, and had a 4 inch exhaust and it seemed to always have a high egt reading so after you start your mods I would go with a 5 inch exhaust and a cold air intake because if not you will blow more than just the tranny.

exactly..... i think the 3 peice is only for 12v ....my bad... sounds like one hell of a parts list my friend..... not sure about the combo.... maybe 500hp possibility.... just dont get too carried away you will loose your drivability and economy will suffer....
i would do one one step at a time like trans and clutch first then manifold and turbo/cold air.... then tune...... then add more if you need to .... dont wanna over due the top end and blow a head gasket or the bottom end....... do reserch on these products and make sure every thing your planning will not only work together but will complement one another.....
Happy Smoking my friend... :choochoo:

im new to diesel's (more than stock) but when you said i will loose drivability what do you mean by that? and most of the upgrades i have been looking at claim that they lower EGT's by a couple hundred. my plan for this truck is to put out some black smoke and be able to haul a 35' gooseneck trailer without feeling it behind me. and do you suggest upgrading the turbo?

fuel mileage and power?
 

With what you have on your list I don't see a problem with drivability. as far as drivability he is meaning that you though to many goodies and it becomes impractical to drive. I would suggest not getting a clutch with ceramic though it can get a little bit of a pia when backing. If you got the money then yes a turbo upgrade would be nice. A exhaust brake may also be a nice upgrade to your list

what do you mean when you say i might get a little bit of a pia when backing? and i have been thinking about an exhaust break but not sure if it would be worth it or not. how big of a turbo would you get if it was you, i have the choice of 62,64, and 66 for the same price.

its just cause a lot of shutter and makes it hard to back with a trailer. i put a valair ceramic dd in my 2000 and i will go with a organic material in my 06 when i get that far. If i had the money and what im looking at for my 06 in the future is a set of towing twins. As far as the eb being worth it everybody i have asked has to told me they really are worth it.

since your not looking to do an injector upgrade due to the cost I would take a look at either the phatshaft 62 or the silver 62 both are from industrial injection just go with which ever one you can get a better price on if you do decide to do a turbo upgrade

Yeah with out injectors a new turbo is not gonna get you any gains... or verry little....
what i ment about loosing drivability is that by doing so much you may loose some comfort and quality of driving meaning ..... in reality the auto trans is a better option ... try stopping on a hill with a stick... then with an auto.... you know that an auto will out tow a stick.... beacuse you have to slip clutch or dump it just to get going... and in stop and go an auto is way more comfortable to opperate ... just brake and gas/ or fuel....lol
if i had your situation i would go to industrial injection and get some stage one injectors... ats for the aroura 3000 turbo and manifold... mbrp exhaust and of course ats for the trans.... stage 4 if you can afford it and plan to add more power later.... thats where i would start.... i would also invest in a good tuner to complement new set up....
too much will be a hand full to drive and could cause brakage... and unless you wanna do all that your self your talikng about 10 - 12K..... on the realistic side.... just depends on what power numbers you would like to see and your buget......
:humm:

Rollin' smoke and dropping egt's don't go together in one sentence. Do an airdog or fass, that'll help keep the injectors in one piece. I have an edge ez on my 03-seems adequate for now. As for the trans- mine seems just fine...180,000 miles on the stock clutch, but driving style has a lot to do with the lifespan. The computer takes over as soon as you let up on the clutch, so unless you want leave a pile of rubber at take-off, there's no point in getting into the throttle til the clutch is released. So far I've done 4" lift, with 35" tires, 4" exhaust, afe cold air intake, edge ez, air dog 150, and 50 horse injectors. Even at wot, the clutch holds just fine. I'm not sure that an auto will out tow a stick- they use manual transmissions in the big trucks for a reason. It's more a personal preference. Automatics are much more convenient though- no doubt about that. Getting the load rolling on a hill-I do it all the time, in the Sierras, with a 12k trailer. It's kinda nice to downshift from 6th to 5th to drop the egt's when they get too high, and not lose any speed on the grade, but again-it's a matter of personal preference. Happy motoring!:rocking:

THANK YOU ALL!!!! ill see what how much money ill be able to put into it (btw i just bought an 03) it was cheaper to replace the clutch with a south bend double disk and the south bend HD hydraulic assembley than doing an automatic rebuild to last. thats what made me choose the manual and ive never had any problems with towing on a hill with a manual.