Remote 48RE trans filter kit
 

Do any vendors here sell a remote 48RE tranny filter kit. I hear that the 48REs are dirty transmissions.

that's why they want you to flush them every 30k miles

i dropped the pan on my 07 after 15k and the magnet was COVERED in fine metal i ran not walked to my trans guys in town rumored to be best in town and they said its normal!!!!! suggested amsoil,deep pan and said a remote filter and cooler would be good [they built my trans for my race car and know i beat up trans's :nope: stupid slush boxes break so easy with my driving

Remote filters on a stock 48RE are a bad idea, not even a good idea on a built one. Drop the filter and fluid every 25-30k. Given the trans is setup correctly for the way you are using it it should be fine.

HUH?! I mounted one pre oil cooler my fluid looks brand new after 20k! I dropped the pan and was surprised to find very little on the magnet!! Why is another filter a bad idea?
BTW I put a magnet on the remote filter Can't wait to cut it open!

I find nothing on the magnet and nothing in the pan after 25-30k with no filter. Again, if you have to filter the fluid the filter is not going to address the problem.

Cooler return flow is used for lube and cooling of the transmission. The system is designed around flow not pressure and anything in that circuit that adds restriction will reduce flow. The idea is to maximize flow to reduce trans heat and wear by fixing the NVH shortcomings. Much more effective than adding any filters, or extra capacity.

What is the NVH? How many miles do you have on your trans and how hard do you work it? Typically the most junk you will find in the pan on an oil change is at the first change. Did you get yours new?

On my first change there was a lot on the magnet in the pan. As hard as I have ran it this time (Since that change) I will not be surprised to see a lot again. There is going to be wear in there. That is just a simple fact of physics. With movement there is wear. Now if you wear it out or make it fail a lot faster than most everyone else, then you are being too hard on it!! Either buy a tougher one or back off . . . .

You are right about the flow of oil. Oil is any moving parts life 'blood'. Take some away and you greatly shorten it's life. The trans. lines are 1/2" but the fittings are only 3/8" inside. The other thing I noticed when changing my fluid was that there is not much flow or pressure in those lines (at idle). I am convinced that if you install a large enough filter head and filter you will not restrict the flow of oil in there enough to measure the difference (And this is what you want so you don't shorten the life of the trans.). If you have a temp gauge in the line coming out of the trans on it's way up to the cooler, you will know instantly if the trans is getting too hot! Don't ever let them tell you to install the probe in the pan or in a stagnant port on the side of the trans. Those are the last places to heat up and will even be coolest. By the time that indicates a problem, the trans will be damaged!! As a rule, our trans will heat up fast when backing a heavy load. Of course in you are pulling a heavy load forward and can't lock the torque converter they will heat up also. It is always best to get the torque converter to lock up when pulling!!

I plan on installing my own large filter. The kits I have seen for sale use too small of lines, filter and fittings in my estimation. It is not hard at all to source larger items for doing this. Oh, and for me; the reason for installing a remote filter is to catch much more of the particles in the oil than what the OEM filter can. Have you ever seen what is inside the OEM filter. It isn't much of a filter at all! (I have changed lots of filters in other autos that actually only a had screen in there for a filter!) The filter I will use will be around 10 micron. This OEM filter should be able to catch stuff at least as small as bugs (Or what: 150 micron! The junk that will cause wear in there is around 20 micron and larger). . . :w2:
Oh, and the oil flow from the trans in the line up to the cooler comes from the torque converter. Any chunks of clutch material that comes out of it goes through the cooler lines and into the trans to lube it. The OEM filter is in the bottom of the pan in the oil pick up before oil goes to the converter. The external filter would prevent junk from moving around in the oil system inside the trans. I talked to the trans expert I know and while he said he doesn't like to see external filters (Because they are usually too small!) he does admit they would be great as long as they are big enough. Well, I can make it big enough to not restrict any oil flow!!! (If you doubt that: look up my new air filter!! . . . LOL) If a guy was worried about restriction he could just install a pressure gauge before the new external filter and it would show instantly if the filter was plugging and restricting oil flow!!

The last thing everyone says is to remove the check ball in the cooler line. It seems like these can fail and plug off the oil flow enough to cause the trans to burn up. So this is another mod that should be done. :rocking:

NVH = noise, vibration and harshness initiatives to make th etrucks more like a car. In the process of making the trans shift like a car its killing it at every shift point because it slips more than it should. Load it down and the situation is aggravated. Address those items and a 90% of the observed problems disappear.

I have 160k on my truck, had since new. Smarty has been on and turned up since about 40k. Burned the direct clutches out of it with too much TQ at 105k. Its used for playing, DD, and 5-15k trailer pulling.

The first change to clean out the junk is normal. These units are not flushed and cleaned before assembled so there always seem to be small filings that end up in the pan after the a bit of driving. The shops I have worked at would rebuild a unit, put about 10 miles in test drive on it then drop the pan and fluid to clean an residual junk and make sure there is not any major issues. The factory doesn't do that so we have to.

Any time you try to filter down to 10 micron the filter is going to add restriction, the feasibility of adding large enough ports and enough surface area to minimize the flow restriction is where things get iffy. Even if you have a 30 psi bypass on the filter you still will negatively affect the flow by the design physics of the fliter and bypass, you can't get away from that. The question becomes how much restriction is too much and that info is hard to come by.

The OE filter is about 40 micron IIRC, adequate to keep larges pieces out of the system but not so much it restricts the ability to draw fluid from the sump, key point as to why the filter is the way it is. Given that the heavier materials will settle to the bottom on the pan and the large stuff won't get thru, its a pretty good system is the trans works as it hsould with minimal slipping and friction degradation. Like I said, if you see evidence you need to filter more the OE will do the filter is not going to address the problem.

Can a better filter help overall life expectancy? Yes it can, but, at what cost by putting it inline?

Consider using a shift kit to boost pressures, add better servos with better sealing capability to stop the slipping on shifts. A shift that happens firmly and quickly will generate little wear particles. The fluid acts as a buffer so frictions and steels meet rotational speeds about the time the the lubricating oil is squeezed from between them. Very few wear particles are generated. The downside to the OE is a firm quick shift that is not as smooth as they like, plus they can't sell rebuilds and parts later either. ;)

Under the stock pressures and typical leaky sealing rings on servos the rotational diffrential is too great to match the frictions and steels as the oil is squeezed. This generates a lot more wear particles and potential grit to run thru the trans.

OE parts on a 48RE are high energy clutches, the stock steels tend to wear faster than say a Kolene steel but thats by design. With the previously mentioned fixes, I have noticed a definite difference in the amount of the black film one sees in a typical stock trans. That film is wear form the steels. When I rebuilt the trans we used new OE clutches and steels, they are wearing much better than they did on the stock system.

Extra filtering is not a bad idea, but, on a stock trans and inline its not something that I believe will increase trans life. Too many other things are more effective. Fix the issues that cause the need for extra filtering and it negates the need for the filter. :)

There is no restriction when plumbed in bypass mode.

Running dirty oil in your transmission is a bad idea.

The oem check ball is the worst restriction I've seen! Take that out of the system and add a inline filter and that will still flow more than that check ball ever will!

Whne you plumb a bypass you are robbing lube and cooling fluid from the transmissions, no restrictions but a bad idea. I have yet to see a bypass system even suggested for that very reason.

That goes without saying. However, the transmission is a mostly sealed system that is subject to very little contamination. Given the transmission functions correctly "dirty" oil is due to a lack of service and/or trans failure which a filter will not cure, help, or affect.

Do you have a quantifiable data to prove this "theory"? Following correct service procedures is just as effective, and, it is the recommended route by the design engineers.

Again, given the transmission functions correctly there is no need for addtional filtering. This has been proven many times over the life of this transmission design.

Adding addtional filters without addressing the the cause is like treating the symptoms while ignoring the disease. Efficacy is never very good and it is truly a placebo mod. :)

That is absurd and absolutely false. I'm sure the things you have not seen or heard of would fill volumes. :rolleyes2:
So what, you think it gets dirty or contaminated like 5 minutes before you drain it? This is coming from the guy that managed lunch his 48RE with a Smarty Jr. Riiiight.
And we all know cars and trucks are designed and engineered to the highest possible failure-proof milspec standards, right? :lol88:
Oh, I guess that also explains the poor reputation of the Dodge truck automatics.
Get back to us after you grenade your trans for the 2nd time. :w2:

What is it that confuses you about "bypass", the term or the concept? All you have to do look at the Amsoil "bypass" and Franz "bypass" filtration systems to understand what it means and how it works. Like I said, neither you nor anybody else has ever posted or suggested a true "bypass" filtration system on this or any other forum. There is a way to build a true bypass system that functions correctly but the concept is a little harder to grasp and implement so of course it is ignored. :argh:

You are just full of misconceptions and bad information. For the record, almost 60k with a SMARTY SR mostly SW6, RP2, TQ 3 plus 4 trips across the US pulling a trailer and a lot of playing at low rpms. The stock 48RE acquitted itself admirably I must say. ;)

They are designed for the highest return at the lowest cost, we all know that. Lessee, the 48RE is still using the same lube\cooling system developed 45 years ago and it has not been materially bettered. I guess Detroit wasn't too impressed with your ideas and resume, eh? :humm:

Because a small percentage of owners post on a forum their bad luck at thrashing a transmission till it dies, it applies across the board. Oh no!!! The sky is falling, the sky is falling!

Guess you missed the part where it has already exceeded the stock trans performace by 10k with no indication of problems. If anything it gets used harder now because it will take it.
;) A little less talking and more listening might learn you a thing or two. We can always hope. :w2:

What makes you think the concept or implementation for a bypass filtration system is any different for a transmission or an engine?
I guess you missed that one.
You're the one with the broken tranny.
I'll keep what I know apart from what you seem to think you know for now, if you don't mind. :w2:
I guess not. They were not continually re-engineered, strengthened and built with new and better hard and soft parts along with better pumps, coolers and converters over the years so they could be run behind the Cummins. Nope hasn't changed at all. :humm:
Not for people who change the fluid at reasonable intervals and do things like run external filtration to reduce wear.
You would be right about me not paying much attention to anything you post. Right on target there, for sure.
In your case it it would be a little less talking shyt you don't know about.

You come on here and give bad advice, just be ready to get called on it. :bat:

So cherrybus, just curious, have you seen a 68RFE? :pca1:

There is no difference in the concept. There is however a huge difference in the oiling system between an engine that makes the difference. Its not even a subtle difference either and you obviously missed that whole critical concept.

Didn't miss it at all. In fact, I use it constantly to illustrate how NOT to add non-functional crap to a system and label it something it is not. ;)


The rest of your crying, whining, and insulting is typical when you get backed into a corner and can't deliver, disagree with you and out comes the asshat. LMAO!!!!

So cherrybus, ever seen a 68RFE?

C'mon now. You've got all the rope you're gonna get this time....

For anyone who is interested, here is an easy, inexpensive way to add an effective bypass filter to the Dodge auto trans:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_11.JPG
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_12.JPG
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_13.JPG

Put about a .030" restrictor anywhere in the filter circuit and it will not significantly affect flow through the cooler, bypassing a constant supply of some small percentage of that flow in the form of CLEAN fluid back to the pan.

The way it works is the pressure differential between the hot and cold lines is enough to move fluid through the filter. The typical engine oil filter is about 300% more efficient than the stock filter found inside the pan. I'm upgrading it to a WIX 51749 setup (5um nominal) next fluid change. They hold about 3qt. for additional capacity as well.

With that and the Maghytec pan it's doubtful I'll ever have trans issues like cherrybus did. :c:

I noticed you still have the check ball inline? Did you drill it out or are you leaving it in for a reason?

ok fellas this is the first i have heard about the check ball i must have totally spaced wherever it was mentioned where is it? and i may as well ask how you get rid of it so you only have to post once. :hellox:

There is a lot of good info in this thread. Keep it coming!

So, if I decide to do one of these, I want to know what the flow is in there first! It would be a good addition if you make sure not to slow down the flow any.

I also agree with fixing as many 'flaws' as you can afford. These really are great transmissions! Just to hold up to the mighty torque of the Cummins for any period at all is a feat! Just adding a shift kit does wonders for these trans. Mine had the hunt, shift back and forth from 2nd to 3rd in stock form. The shift kit cured that, firmed up the shifts and also made the lock up a lot firmer. In fact, I only went half way on that mod and I'm glad I didn't go all the way. It is plenty firm enough!

If you look at the picture where he has the tee fittings installed the one cooler line with the brass fitting is the check ball. take that out and put in a regular fitting. Yes you will have to replace the line also. I'll post a pic of mine tonight!

You would need some fairly sophisticated measuring equipment to accurately determine that. In retrospect, the only reason I used the 1/2" line on the filter was because it was already onhand laying around leftover in the garage. I will use 1/4" line with no restricter when I do the upgrade to the true 51749 bypass element. The resistance presented by the 51749 and smaller 1/4" line connected to the 1/2" cooler line along with the minimal pressure deltas between the lines will be plenty to keep most of the flow (probably at least 95% would be my guess) going through the stock lines.

Also remember, the filter itself, especially in that location, is doing some cooling of it's own. So considering the slow flow through the filter, strictly from a cooling standpoint there is no drawback, actually better overall fluid cooling. But again, you'd need to hook up some thermometers and spend time taking measurements. Not gonna worry about that. The fluid dynamics and physics of this issue are pretty basic and already well understood.

My stock tranny's been running this setup for 2 years, with about half of that now on the Jr @ SW2. :w2:

One thing cherrybus was right about is the maintenance issue being the big killer of these transmissions. This is not a substitute for properly scheduled regular drain and refills, but a way reduce the wear that begins the minute you start the truck right AFTER a fluid change. Clutch material and other debris is always shedding and building up in the trans. The stock filters run around a 200-300um efficiency. Enough of that stuff will start to gum up valves and deteriorate seals pretty quickly. I just prefer to keep as much of it trapped in a filter as possible.

Anyone running an inline magnetic trans filter. Ford puts these on all thier rebuilt trannys to prevent 2nd failures. I an debating on putting this on my rear tranny return line and calling it a day. Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form

Sure, why not?
 

That's not a bad idea. They do make a 1/2" version. I use them on the power steering units and my wife's car trans. I just suspect they may be too small to last very long before going into bypass in a truck application. But way better than nothing and a quick, easy install.

My Version of the Magnefine for Trucks:
 

Found the elements on eBag for $6@ so I decided to go ahead and install the "real" bypass filter as described above. They normally run around $25@ regular price. That is one thing the big auction site is definitely good for: filter bargains. It was going to need a new mount fabbed for the head which took a couple hours of mock-up work and welding, so this became a whole project unto itself. It's tucked in there pretty tight - just barely fits like I knew it would:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_71.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_72.jpg

Holds about 2 1/2 quarts. The head has a 1/16" opening through it, so no restrictor required. True bypass element rated at 5um nominal. The big round donut on the bottom is a super-strong neodymium magnet. Magnefine my arse. lol

To funny I have the same magnet!

X2.....and forget the flush.

so is anyone going to tell anything more about the check ball!!!!!!!!!:argh::argh::scare2:

What exactly do you want to know?

The check ball is there, along with a seal on the input shaft, to minimize TC drain back when at rest. Its needed because the tendency of a normal person is to fire the engine and jam it into gear without any warm up or circulation time. Given the trans does not circulate fluid in park the TC does not charge until it is out of park so frequently there is a slipping feel to the trans when starting out with the TC only partly charged.

Its a hack to fix something that doesn't need to be fixed because the normal buyer\consumer is a total idiot when it comes to vehicle operations. If they can't turn the key on put it in gear and stand on the accelerator at the same time there is a problem and they throw a fit.

Thirty seconds of idle time in neutral would solve all the problems but some moron would decide to get out of their vehicle and walk away without setting the parking brake and mayhem would result. Of course personal responsibility in non-existent and it WILL be the manufacturers fault. LMAO!!


The check ball is a garbage trap and a flow restrition in the cooler circuit. You can take it out and make no more changes and the trans will work the same and cool better but you need to give it 30 seconds or so in neutral to charge the TC after engine off. To fix the charge in park problem the simple thing is to replace the manual valve with a Sonnax item and it will charge in park.

that was my next ??? i wouldn't mind the 30 sec charge time but is there a workable option. i keep hering about the ball getting stuck and it burning up the tranny. could you tell me more about the sonnax part:c:

Here is the Sonnax part: Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: Transmission :: 22771-09 :: Part Summary

The ball doesn't really stick as much as it will fill the area with garbage and cut down the flow to the point the cooling system won't work properly.

Its in the top cooler line right under the driver side battery. You can see the short chunk of hose with a union in it that contains the check ball. Remove the union, get the cheap tool to pop the quick connect off the cooler and you can pull the hose out. Drill the housing from the upstream end and you can dig the bal, spring, and screen out.

is it something i could just open up and clean out or just replace with a new stock. the sonnax looks like a good way to go also. i have always been lost when it comes to slush box's. thanks for all the great info:tu:

Not easy to clean out and still a restriction. Gone is better.

Recapping the Cherrybus B$:
 

This is an interesting theory that is pretty much just basically wrong. Chrysler/Dodge designed the cooler circuit just fine and the check valve is there for good reason.
Another interesting theory based on incorrect or narrowly defined assumptions. Assuming you have alot of garbage floating around in your transmission fluid portends much bigger problems than it invokes through the cooler circuit design.
That check ball is about the last ting that will be adversely affected by "garbage" floating around in the transmission. Properly maintained, the cooling system works just fine, as designed.
There is no restriction. The system works fine and cools at the optimum rate under all possible conditions as designed. Gone is better for people who don't understand why things are designed the way they are for good reason. Get a built transmission and/or a manual valve body if you want something different. Otherwise leave it alone/as designed.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

And FWIW, regardless of the condition of your transmission or anything else that may be wrong with it, it'll have cleaner fluid with better filtration installed.

Just in case that wasn't obvious, from the original thread title. :tu: