head studs
 

I got a new turbo and thinking of replacing the head studs before the head casket goes. Question is if my gasket is still good, do i need to or should i replace the gasket when i put in the new studs.

what size of turbo are ya gunna run?

No I wouldnt unless you have already an existing problem. I assume from your question that your going to be running a pretty common turbo. I would purchase the studs and swap the bolts for studs one at a time in the same torque sequence.

Yep, doing them one at a time is the best way to do it. If the gasket isn't leaking now, don't mess witj it. I'll be doing the same thing with my studs.

yup swap one at a time on a good gasket and youll have no problems. i know for a fact that a stock gasket with studs will consistantly hold 65 psi of boost with zero issues. so unless your planning on going massive with some power you dont really need a ring gasket.

head studs
 

I did my studs without doing a gasket and have no problems. Just make sure you do several re-torques and take it easy for a few weeks afterward. What I did was initial torque, let it go to operating temp and cool back down, do second torque. Drive very easy for a week, and do another re-torque. Drive normal for another week and do a re- torque. After that have fun with it. Make sure you follow torque sequence on install and on every re-torque. Use the ARP lube!!!!! There is also no need really to go over 125 lb/ft. That is what arp suggests and they make the damn things so listen to them...

i got BD diesel super B special

Studs are a cheap, added protection to keep from spending alot of money in the future, there is no need to replace a gasket. p.s my head and main studs are tq to 155

head studs
 

I had a long conversation with the guys at arp about over-torquing their studs. Those things are very precisely made, and are designed to be the strongest when torqued to the pressures that they instruct. Any more is over stretching the stud and can actually be applying less force to the head even though it's technically "tighter". Plus you obviously run the risk of damaging the studs which can in turn damage the head or block... I'm not trying to be a smart a** or anything I'm just relaying the information I was given when I called arp and asked to talk to a tech about the subject. That's why I do the ones I install to manufacturer specs

On DD trucks i only tq to 125, on comp motors ive always had issues with high boost trucks popping gaskets with anything less than 145. So i tq to 155 and never had a problem since

head studs
 

Whatever works for ya is best

i have to agree torque to what they say on a DD, but on a comp engine with high boost they will not hold the head down enough. i lifted the head on mine and blew the fire rings in 2 cylinders way out of place went back with a new fire ring gasket torqued to 150 this time no issues since. but keep in mind this engine does run between 80 and 95 psi down the track depending on the tune i run. also with everyone i deal with in the aftermarket that builds engines they all do the same on race engines so arp may know a lot on it but street credit and real world proof means more than computer designs and controlled testing, atleast to me anyways.

head studs
 

Which is why they make better studs than the cheap 12mm's

even then it is still better to raise the torque level to ensure that the head stays in place. mine are the better ones and it still lifted at arp spec.