wyodiesel92 |
08-15-2010 03:10 PM |
Okay ill try to not write a novel on the install haha. It mounts on the frame, it uses the ecm lead from the factory lift pump on the block, if you look below the fuel filter on the block you should be able to see a plug running to the stock lift pump, the wiring harness uses that plug to tell the lift pump when to run, you connect the power supply to either the battery or alternator. You run the supplied fuel line from the pump on the frame rail to the fuel filter where the original lift pump fuel line goes, you have to remove the bolt running into the filter holding the banjo fitting on and move the line out of the way to connect the new line with the supplied fittings. Then you run the supplied fuel line from the tank supply to the pump and connect the harness to the pump. Bleed the lines and pump by loosening the fitting at the supply side of the filter or do what I did and open the drain valve on the filter and bump the starter to energize the pump. Once you see a steady stream of fuel from the drain line or get fuel at the fitting if you go that route tighten properly, then you can start the truck. I also bumped the starter again after bleeding to make sure I had enough fuel in the filter to start. In my case I also had to prime the pump because my truck was leaning backwards up a slight hill. I did that by running the line from the tank up through the drain hole in the bed, and running a hose into the fitting and making it air tight and then putting that hose into a gas can full of diesel and holding it up so it would pull easily, bumped the starter and it primed the pump, thanks to tony from mighty diesel for the info on that. Unless you accidently start the truck while bleeding the lines like my helper did:argh: you don't need to worry about bleeding the rest of the fuel system. Its very easy and shouldn't take longer than a couple hours. The hardest part for me was trying to get the factory fuel line off the top of the tank. Sorry for the novel haha
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