Great write up, geten ready to go through it for the first time. I had seen thoroughbreds vidio and thought it seemed to easy but it must be pretty simple. Thanks:yeah:

why do they take off the rocker arms that is way more work then you have to do...

From what I got from the video, just to make more room for easy removal/install.

Good job there Jet A nice write up looks pretty straight forward job :tu:

Thanks for the good comments Guys. My old truck has 230,000 miles and the stock injectors were pretty smoked hahahaaa #3 might have been leaking some. Adjusted the valves they were still in tolerance!! high side but still in. Gotta love the Cummins. :c:

You said it buddy "Gotta love the Cummins" :jump:......long live the CTD ::choochoo::yeah:

so it's not too complicated for a wannabe mechanic huh?!

No just take your time.

its not bad, it took me just as long to change them as pull every thing off. for the first time just move slow and remember to remove the injector tubes from the line to the injector :tu:

save yourself time and don't remove the rocker arms. they are not in the way. They work as great holders for parts.

yea i agree, its a joke to take the rocker arms off. it is just as easy with them on. i highly reccomend to get new crossover tubes

What is the torque spec for the T-bar that goes on top of the injectors? What about the torque spec for the injector line to push tube that threads into the side of the cylinder head?

the only thing i ever took off was the injector lines at the injectors only then the valve cover and then the cover that holds the injectors down then put it back to gether never took the linse completley off or the rocker arm or intake horn but i did use one of the bolts off the intake horn thats alot of stuff tho sorda

torque spec
 

:hellox:
The bolt that loads the injector hold down clamp is 89 inch lbs in the service manual and the video, but i run it up to 9 ft lbs or 108 inch lbs. I think that the spec is the low range in my opinion. 89 inch lbs is 7.4 ft lbs. The bolt is 6mm in diameter and or 1/4inch so normal torque would be around 72 - 108 inch lbs. The other bolt that has the shoulder that the hold down clamp fits under (you usually don't have to take it loose) it is the same.
When installing the injector it is important to "seat" the injector using a lower torque value (40inch lbs), then line up the transfer tube with the injector fuel hole and tighten the high pressure lines down slightly to push or seat the transfer tube into the injector.
The injector fuel supply high pressure lines are 28 to 30 ft lbs. They are what holds the fuel transfer tubes in place. The fuel tubes don,t thread into the head it just pushes in and is held by the injector lines.

The most important factor in this whole project, "BE CLEAN". Somethin the size of a small grain of sand will wreak havoc if it ends up in the wrong place during this project. As shown cover the intake with a rag and clean all the grease and debris away from the area before you start.

There was a small amount of corrosion at the injector lines where they connect to the fuel transfer tubes.Like Uncle Bubba says use great care and make sure everything is clean and free of debris.I used scotchbrite for the corrosion and brake cleaner and compressed air to clean up..Ware some safety glasses when cleaning the parts with brake cleaner. A piece as small as a grain of sand or corrosion could flake off and make it's way into the injector or transfer tube and cause poor performance or a dead cylinder.

Thanks for the deal on the injector nozzles Luke. I gained a couple mpg with those 275s!!
Diesel Dawgs Performance- Diesel Performance Parts, Cummins, Duramax, Powerstroke, High Performance Diesels,

:rocking::rocking:

Hey man
Curious - on a thread you said you replaced injectors without removing the fuel lines etc - just straight in from the valve cover.

What do you do with the crossover tubes etc - as they are mated into the injector intake right ??? :humm:

thx

i've never done anything like this is it way to hard for me to tear in to or should I just have a mechanic do it

Pretty easy
If NCFPD gets back to us on his approrach above - then it becomes a LOT easier. Conceptually makes sense.

Takes a newbie (me) with full injector line/vp44/ boot removl and install aroudn 5 hours.
I reckon if I could use NCFPD method - around 2-3 hours.

Biggest thing is make sure you use new orings and don't over/under torque:rocking:

here a nother one:c:

http://www.dieselperformance.com/pro...stallation.pdf

do i need any special tools?

Is there any way to increase the size of the hole on the stock injectors ( i.e. not having to purchase new ones) ? Ive got plenty of power in my 01 to pull my horse trailers, i just want a little smoke while doin it. I plan to spend some money down the road like putting in a quadzilla or edge but for now, is there a way to do it cheap, or free??

No. The average guy with the best hand tools can't do it. The precision is too delicate.

nice write up :tu:

injector nozzle install
 

i am just about to install a set od 150hp injector nozzles on my truck and i was wondering is someone could tell me what you should torque the nozzles down to?

If you are referring to the bolts that hold down the injector, they are 10 N·m (89 in. lbs)

They take them for the compression test. Not needed tho.
Deffinalty skip to save time.