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Originally Posted by kazairl
(Post 362940)
McMaster Carr
You could also try your local hardware store. However you want to make sure the one you get will be compatible with diesel fuel. You could also go down to your local auto parts store and ask for a pressure snubber. The disadvantage there is you can't shut the line off if something happens to the gauge or you want to take it off. Do you have a p/n?? Looked on there and some are pretty pricey. if you go with a pressure snubber - make sure you get one for diesel (there are different ones) |
stick one end in a jug of anti frezze then suck on the other end , once you get some in your mouth stop and put your thumb over the end , then pull it out of the jug and it stays in the line as long as you dont remove your thumb . find a neighbor kid or something And to bleed the fuel side of the isolator do i just loosen that screw and prime it by turning the key till I get fuel outta it? Thanks, hoping to get this done tommorrow. |
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
(Post 363233)
Do you have a p/n?? Looked on there and some are pretty pricey.
if you go with a pressure snubber - make sure you get one for diesel (there are different ones) No I don't. I was just posting up a website that I know of that has needle valves. More'n Likely you could find a cheaper one at the local hardware/auto parts store. I have an electric gauge and didn't use a needle valve. |
Ok, on Saterday I ried to finish the guage, I had a 15psi reading than it dropped to about 5 but I know I had a leak from the 90* elbow where the compression fitting goes into the nylon fuel line. So after an hour of it leaking when sitting I assume it got airbound an the truck took forever to start and the airdog motor was rapidly trying to prime.
On Sunday at work I fixed the leaks and bled the isolator and added more 50/50 antifreeze in the rubber hose to the guage from the isolator. The truck starts fine and doesnt leak but I dont have a reading. Can I just use copper line or brake line directly to the guage and not use the stupid isolator? I dont care about fuel in the cab and I heard of people not having prolems with pressure spikes during start up and I just want it to work. Thanks!!:argh: |
Originally Posted by 24v'd_Fury
(Post 364030)
Can I just use copper line or brake line directly to the guage and not use the stupid isolator?
I dont care about fuel in the cab and I heard of people not having prolems with pressure spikes during start up and I just want it to work. Thanks!!:argh: Dont use copper - the vibration from the engine can cause the soft copper to break. Just get yourself a 1/8" needle valve, some 1/8" DOT Approved air brake line (5 feet or so), and some 1/4" air brake line. The 1/8" line carries the fuel to the guage, and slip the 1/4" line over the 1/8" to protect it where the line goes through the grommet in the firewall. The 1/8" needle valve should look something like this: Valve,Needle,1/8 In - Needle Valves - Valves - Plumbing : Grainger Industrial Supply But you may find one at your local hardware store. The following info is courtesy of Infidel on DTR: After the install start your engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the short time before it self destructs. Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10 from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2. Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I use cost around $10 from here https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a couple hours of your time. |
This way sounds ten times better than the plastic tubing and isolator.
Will gather parts for this today and try and get it going as soon as I can. Thanks again!!!:c: ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Found something like a needle valve at my job today. instead of that turn screw its a bleed valve like on a caliper. Would this work or should I go elsewhere and get the valve you linked me too? Thanks for the help! |
No - you need a "needle valve" or pressure snubber (one for diesel).
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ok thanks, will get one tommorow
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