I'm looking at upgrading my clutch hopefully the first of next year and Im in need of some help. I currently have the juice w/attitude and was thanking about getting the smarty and stacking the two but Im not sure what clutch to go with. Im looking for around 400hp to 450hp give or take, the truck is my daily driven truck and some ocassional towing. No sled pullen or anything like that maybe a little racin from time to time . Also would it be a good idea to go ahead and upgrade to the 1 3/8 input shaft? Thanks for all the help in advance

Andrew

 

If you arent going to be towin a whole heck of a lot, then i would run a full ceramic because you wont really ever out grow it and u can do jsut about everything you want and occasionally pull a trailer. It wont be the smoothest clutch in the world but it will be extremely hardy. If you want a smooth clutch then an OFE is the way to go. Just be careful with the amount you slip the OFE. As far as the upgrading to a 1.375 shaft you wont need to do it. They are usually more for the people running dual discs and pulling or abusin the heck out of the input shaft. I personally would run a ceramic buti dont mind the grabby aspect of it.

Nick

 

You could also try the Ceramic & Kevlar Buttons Single Disc. Rated at 500hp with a 3800# Pressure Plate. Not quiet as grabby as the Full Ceramic.







Luke

 

southbend con ofe good to 450hp and will not eat the flywheel. the input will be fine

 

this is just my opinion,

if you plan on doing any sled pulling or boost launching in 3rd/4hi on a drag strip, then upgrade the shaft, if you know for a fact that youll never do any of the above, then the stock shaft will be fine

 

Thanks for all the replys and info guys . Now for a quick question about the stock clutch, I have the juice set at 3x4 and was wondering if this is alright to run with the stock clutch or should I have it set lower. I just dont want to fry my clutch until I get the money for a new one.

 

If you don't beat on it and drive smarty your stock clutch will last for a while. Mine slipped once and I drove with it for 6 months.



Luke

 

yeah lukes right, the stock clutches can handle up to 350 ft lbs, what happened with mine before upgrading to a OFE from southbend and eventually a dual disc is that i tore the center out of the clutch, that was just by adding injectors and nothing else

 

Ok guys just couple more questions on this subject.
? 1- Duke, do you mean that the stock clutches can handle up to an extra 350 ft lbs before they start to fall apart.

? 2- Luke when you say drive smartly do you mean not over reaving and bogging it down in a certain gear? The reason I ask is b/c I asked a guy at Advance and he said as long as I didnt hit high rpms I should be alright. The highest rpm I hit is around 2500 rpm 3rd gear.

? 3- When upgrading the clutch should I upgrade to the 13'' conversion kit or just have the flywheel resurfaced and get the 12.25 clutch set?

Ok hopefully this well be the last of my questions, but how can you tell if your clutch is slipping ? I dont think mine is slipping right now cause as the rpms go up the speed goes up, I just need to know what to be on the look out for.

Again thanks for all the help.

 

This is how I was told on how to tell if a clutch is slippin' go out on the highway and get it up to about40-50 or so and put it to the floor and if the engine revs alot and your speed does increase accordingly then your clutch is fine, however if your engine revs alot and your speed don't increase then your clutch is slippin'.