2001 fuel psi problem
 

just installed a edge juice with attitude monitor on my girlfriends 2001 dodge and its not keeping good fuel pressure at idle its only 9psi and even with the juice set to stock it pulls down to 3psi at anything over 75% throttle and with the juice on 5x5 it pulls down to 0psi at WOT noticed during the install that the truck has a freshly rebuilt vp and i allready checked the banjo bolt and its not leaking

i'm thinkin that the lift pump is shot or at leasting going out....might have been what killed the orginal vp

what's yall's thoughts on this?

I DO NOT trust electric guages at all....I would verify the fuel pressure with a mechanical guage at the test port on the VP-44.

the edge kit replaced the test port.....i'm pretty sure that the readings are correct i was driving it and if you hold the brake to spool it up the pressure drops and so does the power and it doesnt run real smooth

As was said above, I would verify with a MECHANICAL gauge and move down the line from there.

If it is reading correctly I would think the LP would be your next bet, and pray they didn't do an in tank along the way.

While your waitin on a guage to show up you can run a flow test on the LP. Just pull the outgoing hose and run it into a bucket for 1 minute. Multiply by 60 to get gals per hour rate, or the other way around and run a gallon, timing how long it takes. Then multiply it by 60. Comes out the same either way.

If your juicin up her truck make sure you have something better than the stock fuel supply system in it first. These mods will run the VP dry even if the stock LP is working. The stock hoses and LP can't keep up with the fuel needs of the extra HP.

i had the same problem...i could suck my FP down to 4psi at WOT with the hrvp44, stock lift pimp and the edge ez...both the lp and vp44 were new and that was all the lp could supply.. i sence added the holley black and i am at 24 psi all the time no matter where my foot is on the stupid pedal....and i have mechincal gauges...i dont trust electrical gauges either.....

Ive been running a Holly BLUE pump for 2 years no and no problems 20psi, it pulls to 18 at WOT. I kept the LP to keep the psi at its 8psi for start up.

$114 with some hose and HD hoseclamps and I was back on the road!

Ian

where can i find more info on the holly blue pumps? any of yall got pics of the install and maybe a link to a place where i can buy one....a new factory pump is like $160 i think is what they quoted me today so if the holly is better for the same money then that's the route we'll go

By far the easiest way is to install Vulcan Big line/relocate kit and get a Holley Blue from Summit or Jegs...

The Holley's have worked great for some and been a complete failure for others. So far the only pump that I have heard no problems with once it's installed is the Walbro. Been a few install problems reported but it has been insatalled in large numbers of the trucks that are over the road and so far 0 failures.

check out ebay for good deals on the pumps..... all i did was mount my pump on the frame and i am running the the holley thru the stock carter that way i do not have starting issues with too much pressure....i will try and get pics of where i mounted it later....

i have a holley blue on my truck but no stock LP and with the comp on 5x5 and smarty on catcher 8 i see 9 psi WOT.

Ian,
Did you mess with the spring inside the pump?

I didnt mess with it, just installed it and let it be.

If you run or going to run a programmer or chip you need a real pump. I think the top of the heap there is the FASS because of the extra filters. Yes there is a cost associated with that but...

if it were me i wouldnt even worry about checking with a mech gauge right now and just upgrade the lift pump. odds are very high that the lift pump is shot or will be very soon and will take out the ip. do something with the fuel system!! as far as the gauge on the attitude, it reads exactly the same as my mechanical gauge, but rest assured, you will not catch me without a mechanical gauge either as mentioned above. also i have the vulcan big line relocate kit and a holley blue without the stock lp. pres at idle is 17(tweaked the spring a little) and at wot on 5x5 pull it down to 12psi. not bad for under 200$ i dont think and has been reliable for over 30,000 miles now.

fass is by far the best i have seen for a 24 valve

my opinions on a fass...
You have a filter in the tank, one hanging on the motor... why 2 more? "fuel air seperation system" how would you get air in your line? doesnt really follow thru for me. I cant justify paying 700 for a pump that is known to fail. (brushes go bad) and leave me stranded.... :se:

If I had the time & money I would spend it on the RASP which runs off your motor and not a electric pump. You can add filters if you would like..... yeah the FASS looks cool but I think its talked up more than anything

there are quite a few guys on TDR that are running the Holly pumps. so far there are a handfull that have been known to seep but I havent heard of any failures yet:duh3:

Downside to a Holly blue.... its loud! but you wont hear it over your cummins! just on Key-ON you will hear the motor which is good but others might look at you funny. I just tell them is the smaller motor starting the big one. :ph:

just my .02, It might not be your thought but its mine:c:

I would deffinately agree that if your looking to spend that kind of money on a fueling system the RASP is the only way to go. Will fuel any HP you could ever want and completely dependable. If your somebody looking to squeeze every once of Hp out of your truck the FASS and air removal ideas, may hold some merrit. But that's alot of money for that little bit of merrit. So far the Walbro is the only pump that I have heard nothing bad about and the price is deffinately right on them. Myself, I have fought this fueling problem to death and am even using a side by side, dual pump system right now so that I know I am never broke down on the road for LP problems. These two pumps run completely independent of each other. I think the RASP is gonna be my next stop. If I would have done it in the first place I would have saved money by now.

ok i think we are going to go with the Holly Blue and i looked at the big line kit from vulcan for $115....has anybody on here hooked up a blue without using a kit?....i know i can plumb it my only problem is where to get the pigtail....anybody have any ideas on this one?

Edit: ok i read back and seen the Ian didnt use the vulcan kit, Ian what did you do about the pigtail?

Not looking to step on anyones toes here...just supply some info

This is taken directly from the Piers Diesel website. This info is from Piers and NOT from the makers of the FASS units:

"Typically fuel tanks are usually mounted at least two feet below and ten feet away from the fuel pump. This configuration creates multiple problems associated with the fuel delivery to the engine. First, the injection pump has to draw the fuel from the tank by creating a vacuum. When diesel fuel is drawn by a vacuum fuel vapor is produced. Second, while the vehicle is underway the fuel is sloshing around in the fuel tanks creating entrained air. This circumstance has created a situation far from the manufacturer test cell conditions which results in air and vapor being mixed in with the fuel when it is delivered to the injector. By having entrained air and air vapor in the fuel the engine does not perform at the engine manufacturer's specification. Air and fuel vapor occupy the space that should have pure fuel, thus delaying the injection of fuel into the combustion chamber. This phenomenon is better known as "RETARDED TIMING." Air/vapor present in fuel is very inconsistent also causing varying degrees of changes in injection timing."

If you ever get the chance to see the FASS trailer and the FASS demonstration - make sure you take it in. I seen it last summer and Brad Exstam, the inventer of the FASS system schooled me on this very topic. He'll make a believer out of you too.

As far as the product being pricey, sure. As far as the product falling apart because brushes fail - are you kidding me? Never seen one in my 3 years of selling them. The product is by far the best out there. Never had a return, a failure or a recall. That has to say something.

I'm not saying it is the only way but considering the easy instal, the number of times a stock LP can take a dump and the cost of a VP44 or CP3 (installed or otherwise) you are looking at a way to save it. Not soing so to save $50 is a mistake.

More filters - very important. I don't know what you mean by having one in the tank - you don't if you by pass the in-tank pump or never had that to begin with. I run all my setups with the 144, the 12 and the 6um filters - all fleetguard. Never a problem.:c:

There have been a few FASS failures mentioned but it is probably the best system short of one of the mechanical systems. Most of the failures have had to do with bad connections etc in the electrical supply. Getting rid of the air in the fuel and having the extra filtration also has a lot of merit. That said, I decided on the Walbro because I can carry an extra pump under the seat for all the times when I'm way back in the sticks with no access to parts for a fass system. Of equal importance imo is to get rid of the restrictions in the system caused mostly by the banjos. I used a 3/8 line and maintain 12 psi wot at the output side of the filter. In case of any fuel supply system failure I can wire my replacement pump directly off the batt, fix hose problems with spare hose and a couple of clamps etc and get back to civilization. Now if I could just figure out a way to back up the vp44 I'd have it made! Oh well... I love my truck!

i really appreciate the imput on my prob. I keep finding lil things that need my attention on this thing and so far this is my biggest prob yet. seriously considering going with the holly blue w/o the big line kit if I can get away with it. if not then i'll bite the bullet and go ahead with the vulkon kit.

I just installed an Eliminator Its one SWEET Set up and its a 500,000 Mile Pump , PSI also offers the Performer System its a 150,000 Mile Pump

find them here

www.wickeddiesels.com

I didnt use the old stock fuel filter with my fass just the two on the fass. now i need something for my 12 valve.

Yeah, Ive been thinking about putting a FASS on my 12V so I dont have to change that #$%%^^$ fuel filter so often. Seems like its a lot of money for something thats not necessary. Would be nice if Vulcan put together a big line kit for 12V's (are you reading this Eric??)...

just wanted to let everyone know that I ordered the holly blue along with the vulcan wiring harness. going to install within the week!!! (i'll finally be able to run wot without runnin 0 psi) thanks for all the input and advice!

miss_un_glued ->

Dont just buy the harness....seriously....get the big line kit/with LP relocation. It eliminates all the banjo bolts and makes a world of difference.....not so much in pressure but in the volume of fuel delivered to your injector pump (which in turn cools and lubricates your pump). I would not steer you wrong with this and this mod is just about the biggest bang for the buck on a 24V second gen truck. Trust me, its well worth the money...

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...er-Pump/Detail

Look at it this way, if you can afford to buy the performance goodies, you need to spend the money to address the fuel system issues (u dont want to have to but another IP)...just my 2 cents...FWIW...

What the good Dr. forgot to mention that is if you don't do this change now you will later when your replacing the IP. If you looking for HP these bigger lines and fittings in place of the banjo's is a must.

i agree with the doc here to. pushing fuel through the stock banjo bolts is going to make the holley work twice as hard also, which i think is where running the holleys got a bad name in the first place. why not open up the system and take some stress off of the pump?

Actually, I didnt forget to mention it - I just didnt because the truck already has a freshly rebuilt IP...so mis un_glue_ed should already know all about the importance of cooling and lubricating the IP...

But, yeah, the stock banjo bolts are a huge bottleneck - its really best to get rid of them.

Miss_un_glued is at work right now so I'll go ahead and put in my $0.02 right now all she has is the juice on the truck and that is all that is it going to have for a while, its not a race truck or a sled puller so for the time being the juice is all that it is getting

The stock LP is dead and she needs it fixed asap and a stock replacement was $160 and the holly blue around $140 + the harness $46 makes going with the holly a whole $26 higher then the stock replacement

If/when she does add more power to it then i will eliminate the banjo's and put a bigger draw straw and everything but for now just the pump will work besides i can get JIC fittings and fuel hose here so i don't have to get that stuff from Vulcan and if i can find all the fittings that i need next week then i might go ahead and change them all out but to me $115 for some fittings, little bit of hose, and a wiring harness is a little steep

BTW thanks for yall's help with this problem it is much appreciated

oh yeah if anybody has a pic of where/how they installed their holly pump i would love to see that it would really help when i put her's on

thanks

Take some advice from a fool. I built me whole fueling system from scratch. Every inch of line, every fitting even my own fuel pick up from the tank. What a pain in the ass. A dozen trips to the raceshop for different size fittings, not to mention a couple that were almost impossible to find and a few hundred dollars more than a kit by the time I added it all up. It looks like a simple project, but it's not and those $2-$10 a piece fittings that seem cheap add up quicker then I ever dreamed of. I learned an incredible amount about our 24V fueling system doin it, but never again. Here is a link to an article I wrote after doing all this in case anybody is interested. It's just a quick guide to the system and the different components of it.

http://www.idahobombersforum.com/tip...uel_system.htm

On the final few posts, were going to say this issue is resolved.