HX35 and injector size for performance and towing??
 

Hi guys. I'll be running about 30-32 psi max out of my HX35. I'd like to select an injector that will run cool and not tax the HX while towing. Could you please give me suggestions on which injector would be the best for that application? So far I've narrowed it down to RV275s (from a cost perspective), either DDP 60s or 75s (would love to go 100s but I think they'll be to hot), or Mach 1.6s.

I'd be happy to get around 325 RWHP but would be willing to settle for less as long as I don't have to limit myself on towing or EGTs getting out of hand.

Thanks in advance, Mike.

the 275's is about all ya can handle with an HX35

I run that combo and it works well for me but my right foot still hasta be the governor to keep EGT's in check

Having that said, Would the H1E hold a lot more in terms of HP?! The HX 35 on mine seems to not be handling the Adrenaline very well at times. And if I go with injectors soon I am guessing the H1E will helps tons....

I have about the same setup as your talkin about in the 99 with RV 275's and stock turbo and you can see my HP in the signature. I pull a little heavy in this truck and EGT's are controllable with these injectors as long as I turn the Comp down or off. For the most part no matter what turbo your runnin if it will work for daily driving it will not work for pullin heavy with a controller box turned up. If will control that kind of heat it would be way to laggy for daily driving purposes.

Thanks Uncle Bubba. So with DDPs, I presume the power would be a little more and the EGTs would be slightly less (mileage would be a little more??) but not enough to make a difference in the big scheme of things, right? If that's the case, I'll just go with the RV275s and call it good for a while.

Mike

DDP's are better and that's a fact. But are they enough better to justify more then twice the price as I recall. If your into competition and need everything your truck can make, maybe so. For us normal folks usin our trucks as Daily Drivers and pullen trailers, not even close to worth it according to my wallet.

Yeah, I hear ya. I was thinking if the RVs give a 1-2mpg increase and run a bit higher EGTs than stock but the DDPs give a proven increase in mpgs over the RVs plus lower EGTs, then yea - I might go with them.. I just want all I can eek out of my engine efficiently without a box. But the determining factor, for me at least, will be to find out how much more mpgs and less EGTs the DDPs actually give over RVs.

Mike.

Without a box you are gonna get very little effect out of any injectors. The stock controls simply won't supply enough fuel to make use of them.

I didn't see any increase at all in EGT's over stock after I installed the RV's.

Good to know on the EGTs, thanks.

yea, I'm trying to put myself in the position of having around 275-325 RWHP but more importantly lots of torque. Once I have the injectors and run them for a while, during that time I'll do a VB and TC (I don't really drive it hard enough to justify a full rebuild on a pretty nice shifting trans at this point). Then I'll be ready for the Adrenaline and some type of turbo :)

That's the problem with the Auto's. That bigger turbo and the ability to put the power to the ground with a good controller box is at least $3G worth of upgrades away and more to do it the right way.

Exactly. 3k, I don't quite have yet. But I might be able to get injectors and a VB to hold me over for a while to get a bit more oomph. I don't baby it but am not into running it hard enough to break stuff either (hopefully). Just want to fill in the weak spots throughout the powerband and enjoy it for a while.

Lookin at your signature, a few things you may want to look at before anythng else. GUAGES, especially fuel pressure and Pyro. You need them before you much of any playin unless you already have them and they're just not listed. The other thing i would check is the exhaust manifold. If it is the stock model would bet it is cracked on the bottom side and your losin boost through it if it is. Pretty much ever factory manifold has done this if they are not changed out. It's hard to see unless it splits wide open the way mine did but it's usually right in the middle portion on the bottom side where they let go at. It will be small crack to look at but as it builds pressure under boost it opens up.

Thanks again, Uncle Bubba.. I do have an FP guage but the other 3 will be installed before any more fuel goes in - found a great price - 235 bucks for the pillar and all 3 guages plus goodies to make them work.

One the exhaust manifold - If I had a boost guage, could I tell I have a boost leak from the guage? I figure right now I should be around 20-22 lbs. ???

Not really because if it's not to big yet the Turbo will just keep pumpin to compensate for the loss. But doin this is burning extra fuel and stealing power from the rest of the truck. In my case, ya that's how I found it was because I couldn't hold presure even with my foot planted. But once I pulled the manifold off I saw that even without pressure I had a 1/4 inch wide crack from engine side to turbo side. The only thing holdin it together was the bolts. But that was an extreme case. Typically they are just hairline cracks when not under pressure.

Could I see it from underneath with a good light?

I never could but you may not be as fat and old as I am either though.:ouch:

The DDP's maybe better,I won't go against Uncle Bubba, but if you are going to get DDP's go for the 100hp sticks,my 275s made more power,less smoke than the DDP's 75hps I tried.
DDP will let you try them,and you can return them no questions asked,one of the best places to deal with.
(I bought mine direct,but Luke will save ya a couple bucks)