Taping into fuel?
 

Ok, so i found a mechanical gauge on Geno's that comes with an isolator (SSPRO R5607R Fuel Pressure Gauge (0-60 PSI)-Geno's Garage)

Question, should I run a T fitting on the supply line (between the lift pump and vp44) or run a banjo bolt on the test port (return line?) with a snubber? Im assuming the isolator with help with pulses regardless of where i'm taping the fuel from?

no the isolator will NOT help with pulses. you need a needle valve or snubber regardless.

the isolator is just an overpriced piece of garbage that will go bad in a few years and make you freak out thinking your lift pump is going out because the isolator will start to leak on the anti-freeze side.

run a tapped banjo bolt to the output side of the fuel filter. That's where I ran mine until I got a 150GPH fuel system that completely bypasses the stock fuel filter. now I run it straight to the fuel systems gauge port on the output side of the filter base.

I guess I forgot to mention I have a FASS 150 HD lift pump. Its pushing out too much psi and thats why im getting a mechanical fuel gauge to figure out where im at

in that case run a t inline or run from the test port. make sure you use a needle valve or snubber though.

if using a needle valve just barely open it a crack... that will stop the pulses.

Awesome. Thats exactly what I bought from Vulcan Performance. Any tips or write ups for hooking up a pressure gauge? Running SS line into the cab and not using an isolator.

SS line?

I would just use napa airbrake line...

Its a stainless steel braided line kit from Vulcan Performance. Same as a grease gun line but comes with npt adapters

you don't need all of that... save your money and keep it simple :tu:

https://i49.tinypic.com/2cy5g02.jpg

literally all you need shown there...

but you would use the T fitting instead of the tapped banjo bolt..

Already bought it all... is that the air brake line? Where else can I find that, I dont have a Napa. Does advance auto carry it?

yes, that is the airbrake line.. rated forover 150psi so the sub 30 psi we run is never getting though that line :tu:

Nylon air brake tubing 1/8 x100ft, 1922-01-1, Tectran - Ryder Fleet Products

$16 for 100ft of it there :doh:

little excess when you only need 6' of it..

might check local auto parts stores around you. usually something they have behind the counter...

1/8" air brake line.

How do you bleed that line when you install the gauge? Or do you just attach it to the T fitting and open the valve and it will bleed itself?

leave it unhooked from the gauge, open the needle valve till fuel comes out of the line and then close the needle valve which will hold fuel in the line without leaking. Hook to the gauge, and then just barely crack open the needle valve and it should function properly.:c:

How did you attach the end where the banjo bolt is? I need the attachment to attach a 1/8" line but im not sure what kind. I will need to attach the brake line to the needle valve

i am following this VERY closely
(just killed my vp44)
my check list so far
gauge
air brake line
some kind of needle valve
and i dont know what else you have in that photo .names sizes and part numbers would be a godsend.

mine is stock except for ddrp02
01 3500 ho engine

in the picture:
isspro 0-30psi mechanical fuel pressure gauge
6' of napa 1/8" air brake line
1/8" compression fitting to male 1/8" NPT fitting (comes with the gauge)
1/8" NPT female to 1/8" NPT male needle valve (can be found at a local hardware store, or bought online from a diesel performance vendor like DAP)
1/8" NPT tapped banjo bolt

there are many online vendors that have the tapped banjo bolt for sale. They are fairly cheap, but you probably wont find a tapped banjo bolt in a local parts/hardware store.


Fairly simple setup. The point of the needle valve is to stop the water hammer effect from the pulses of the injection pump reaching the gauge and damaging it. By just opening that needle valve a crack it severely limits the flow of the fuel to the gauge but does not effect the pressure reading. merely slows it down a bit so it protects the gauge. You know it is set properly when you first turn the key on and the gauge slowly sweeps up to pressure rather than just instantly spiking up to pressure. If it instantly jumps to whatever pressure your lift pump puts out, that means the needle valve is open too much and is not protecting your gauge from damage.