Auto Trans advice on billet shafts
 

I’m going to upgrade my trans hopefully in the early spring. I found a local shop with a good reputation that does transmissions build ups but they do not always upgrade the input and output shafts. Do you think it’s necessary to have billet input and output shafts? It’s for the truck in my signature. My future plans, at the most, may include a different turbo and possibly 100/ 150 sticks or something similar (not sure yet…don’t want anything laggy) but no more. Although, I tow with this rig and it’s an often daily driver, I most likely will not go compounds due to my mechanical ability and cost. Please let me know your thoughts.

If you go with a 62 turbo and 100 sticks I would not get billet shafts but you can always pull your tranny out and have them put billet shafts in if you decide to go bigger. It only takes about 5-6 hours to pull them transmissions by yourself.

If you get a billet input now, it will save you in the long run. Doing it again will always cost more. I didn't do all billet shafts, just the input. So far it is holding up just fine.

A trans with a good rebuild kit with a good tc, flex plate and billet input will handle upwards of 700HP safely. How much power do you wanna make an what are you going to do with the truck?

I was just thinking if he didn't have the money he could leave the billet stuff out for now. But if you got the money billet the 3 shafts and flex plate.

Yea I hear you guys...and I thank you. A lot of the issue is around whether I try to take the trans out myself or not. I'm not sure if I have the means to do this. I'd have to rent a trans jack for sure. Looks like a big job on my back (I have no lift). If I do it myself, I have options - I can possibly find a used built one, I can have someone build one (or rebuild mine with the good stuff in it). If I choose to have a shop pull the trans, I'm only gonna do it once, due to their labor costs!

With what you want (bigger injaectors and turbo) you will NEED the billet input shaft and at least a laminated flex plate (billet if you have the money). Also you won't need a trans jack if you do it on your back. Hydraulic jack, Jack stands for the front end, Looooong ratchet extensions, and some patience. I've done mine 3 times (in and out, in and out...) in a day on the ground with one helper (forgot the piston on the input shaft).

Good to know. I do have a large garage, concrete floor and heavy duty jack...and tie downs :( Hey at the risk of hyjacking my own thread....if anybody has done this before on their back in a garage and has other tips, please let me know. Such as, do you have to pull the t case off the trans first...or take the whole trans and t case out together. I looked at this - it does n't look too gawdawful bad.

I've done it both ways. If you take the T-case off first it's a royal b!t(h. Personally, the last 3 times I had it out I left the T-case on and removed it once out. You will need really really big hammers for the cross member. Hit it forwards and up. Know where the convertor bolt access is :argh: The convertor is seriously heavy. If you have more questions feel free to call or text. If you do this on a weekend I can walk you through things. PM me if you want my number.

Actually its not the input shaft that is the problem. its the drum that the input shaft goes into. On a stock transmission The drum has splines which are aluminum and that is where they strip out. How do I know this I went to a reputable transmission shop here locally. He showed those pieces he removed from his personal rig. He told me he had 70,000 on that rebuild before they broke. He pulls some heavy trailers with his. 28 ft box race car trailer, and a 35 ft fifth wheel camper. Its is nice to have reputable shops in your area that will show you what and why things need to be done before they just tell you and charge an astronomical price to build your trans.