Upper And Lower Control Arms
 

I'm lookin at the next projects for plannin now. I keep lookin at the aftermarket adjustable control arms but they are out of my price range to buy. But lookin at them, they look to simple to make. A stainless bar with links on the ends appears to be all that they are. Am I missin somthin here. If that's the case I could make a full set for well under $200. The only thing I would need to buy would be the Left and Right turn ends and they're easy to come by.

I wouldnt even do that Dennis

I got me a set of the DT control arms that IIRC the lower one is one inch longet to help fpr propper geomitry since I did 2" lift up front

anyway they are very simple and I wished I had built my own....I have everything I need to do it

IMHO you dont need them to be adjustable

I have the Stainless scrap material available so that's a no brainer. I just keep thinkin there has to be more to them then meets the eye or why would anybody pay that much money for them. I've never looked at any close up and in person though so I'm clueless.

if you have access to a lathe to build some poly bushings for the knuckles than it should be a cake walk

This is what I am pondering for the ends. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/8663...and-Heims.html

I honestly dont see the need to adjust though............but if they make the correct one for it then that would make it easy

No real reason, just cause I can and they look cooler. And in the end that's all any of this is for. Right off the show room floor I never found anything I needed this truck to do that it wouldn't, but that hasn't stopped me from spendin money yet.

You are right, just a rigid set would do just fine and they would be almost free to make.

So why do folks buy these things.

For a rigid set I think I would just use a piece of solid bar stock, shaped to fit. Couldn't get any easier then that.

I would just get some 120 schd pipe...looks like prolly bout 1" and them machine then to accept a poly bushing myself

That same shop sells the rebuild materials to rebuild your own Heim Joints. I'm sure that could be incorporated into this home build, but sounds easier to just build the adjustable ends to me. Just weld the sleeves into the bar stock and screw the ends in.

go out there and look at the ones DT makes then copy them..........easy to do and they would be stronger than what yer talkin here

Check this out Dennis....pretty good uns right there

I myself would have gone for the "I" construction but these are pretty damn good too

Ram Modifications

Make me a set Bubba...

Has anyone simply boxed their stock ones for strength?

Bubba, have you seen these?:

Solid Steel.biz

Some good stuff on that site. I like the air box to.

These things just look to damn easy to make and gettin easier with every post. In his case it looks like he just used some Rectangular tubing and welded the tube through it for the end links.

Easy enoug Doc. If I get these things figure out it wouldn't take nothin to do several sets at the same time.

That's the exact pattern I was originally thinkin of.

just be aware that these things arent just a straight piece..................they are doglegged on both ends

I just went out and looked at the stock ones. Not worth the trouble. Talk about cheap, just stamped sheet metal parts.

There's the secret's I'm lookin for. Explain a little more here.

kinna hard to explain but go look under yer truck

they mount on an angle.................narrower at the axle vs. back at the frame ..............you will see what I mean

Found the parts to buy the complete greasable end links already pre-assembled. Bout $65 for the ends and another $35 for the Inserts. So $100 per bar for adjustables. Could go cheaper by using the stock end rebuild kits but not nearly as stout.

The next question is on the upper bars. Is there any reason for them to be adjustable. All I keep seeing is fixed length bars for the top and they would be cheaper to build.

keep the top ones the same length as OEM..........no adjust

Thanks Whit, that makes it all easier and cheaper.

did you look under yer truck to see this angle I am refering to?

Not yet, I'm still pretty non functional at the moment. I'll be installing the new shocks and coil springs sometime here in the next week or so and that's when I'll get a good look at all this and start puttin an actual plan together. I have found some good sources for all the parts and pieces and have it all mapped out in my head, now I just need to see if my plan matches what's on the truck.

cool man

the only reason for the tops to be adjusted is for extreme driveline angles from lifting. most lifts do not compensate for this. causing extra wear on the u-joints.

I would think you should just be able to use DOM tubing, and johnny joints. Maybe some weld in bungs, and be done!! If and when ya get around to building these could ya post up some measurements and parts list to make it easier on the rest of us wanting to do this??

Thanks
Curtis

Sure thing. I'm also lookin at rubber isolators in the tubing to absorb any shock or vibration, just as an extra measure.

got me ta thinkin.......maybe it was the top one thats an inch longer????????????

better check on this

As it stands right now I'm gonna make all of them adjustable and make the centered adjustment the same as stock length so that will give 1 1/4 inch shorther and longer then stock length. So it should be good regardless of which one needs to be longer but I think you were right the first time on it being the lower rods.

Tech Article...:w2:

Just stay away from using the solid bar not as strong and DOM tubing.
They make them adjustable so you can adjust the caster, if you get that wrong tuck won't steer correctly.