CUMMINS 3rd Gen Head On 2nd Gen VP Block
5 Attachment(s)
well with my head being cracked and the valve guides being shot Im going to do the 3rd gen head swap. I drove to Huntington, IN yesterday to pick up the new head... its off a 2006 cummins.
The only issue is the crossover tubes / fuel line nut. 3rd gen common rail motors use a crossover tube that screws into the head then the fuel line screws onto the crossover tube. The 2nd gen tubes are jammed between the injector and fuel line with the fuel line nut screwing into the head. I can either buy new fuel lines OR buy a set of custom connecting tubes.... Im going with the tubes! DIFFERENCE between the 03-04 head and the 04.5-07 5.9L :
Originally Posted by rufushusky
(Post 495029)
Copied and pasted from DP article online:
That all changed on January 1, 2004, with the mid-'04 model "Cummins 600." Inconel valves and high-cobalt content Stellite exhaust valve seats complemented revised ports with less swirl, a bigger turbo compressor wheel, and electronic wastegate control for the HY35 turbo. To feed all that power, a new fuel lift pump and intake air heater that needed no ground strap found their way into the engine. This brought the top engine rating to 325 hp at 2,900 rpm with 600 lb-ft at 1,600 rpm, thanks to 30 pounds of boost-regardless of transmission or state the truck was sold in. For 2005, the torque rating was bumped to 610 to keep it ahead of GM's Duramax LLY engine that received 605 lb-ft rating. Here are a few pics of them side by side of the heads: 3G on left and 2G on right Attachment 58611 3G on top and 2G on bottom Attachment 58612 Attachment 58613 3G on top and 2G on bottom Attachment 58614 Attachment 58615 Ian |
very interesting Ian
while yer at it is there anything ya can do with the intake on this...........I know its a bottleneck in the system |
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The intake is a mess!! here are some pics... you can see the head sticks into the intake side!! I never knew this and the bottom of the intake valley cover (not sure what else to call it) is a mess as well!!! I'll take all the casting bridges out of it since Im not sure if they are for structural stability or not... I dont think so but correct me if Im wrong. I think If I can get the head to a mill I will removed the head material that sticks out into the intake side.
Ill also use some sanding disks to smooth out the intake side of the head as well as remove the casting numbers for some more flow... As far as a modified intake Im pretty stuck with the factory since the fuel lines will be in the way to do anything like a banks dual intake (for the 12V's) I guess your best bet is to fab up a swanker intake like I did to help the flow from the intake horn and remove the heater grid in the summer. 2Gen Attachment 58608 3Gen Attachment 58609 bottom of intake cover Attachment 58610 |
Ian.......I dont think it would be wise to remove those casting gussets ..they are there for structural integrity................however it would be cool to smooth things up for better airflow
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Do you think it will crack over time? heck its bolted about every 4" just seems like a good idea to take that crud out and get the air flow as smooth as I can.
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well it was designed in there for a reason .....thats all I am goin by :wacko:
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hmm i kinda wish i would have gone this route now.. tell me how it goes so when i break mine again.....
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Originally Posted by Lostnwalmart
(Post 126337)
hmm i kinda wish i would have gone this route now.. tell me how it goes so when i break mine again.....
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i almost pooped myself when i saw that lol
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Originally Posted by IC Smoke
(Post 126173)
As far as a modified intake Im pretty stuck with the factory since the fuel lines will be in the way to do anything like a banks dual intake (for the 12V's) I guess your best bet is to fab up a swanker intake like I did to help the flow from the intake horn and remove the heater grid in the summer. |
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