Cummins Setup - need advice
 

Im looking for opinions on my 12v build coming in the next few months.

Im looking for ~400HP without nitrous, BUT, I still want to tow about 5000lbs on a regular basis on long hauls.

Im working along the following lines

Silver Bullet 66 (maybe a 62)
Head studs
MLS gasket
90-120hp sticks
#10 plate
4" down pipe
CFM intake
cold air

Eventually I plan on running water/meth to keep temps down, I'll also bump my timing up a bit, but im not sure how far. The KDP will be taken care of while the timing is completed. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Im sure there's something in this mix that is probably wrong.

I tow up to 14,000 lbs in the mountains with no air, best in the 350 hp range. Any more and you just can't use the power, so I've backed off the plate and still have to watch my temps. Towing lighter makes a difference, so at 400 you might be ok. Just my opinion, but take the money you slated for the injectors, intake, head studs and gasket and put it towards a good clutch/tranny upgrades whatever you have. I have done quite a bit of research on water/meth and I just am not sold on it, but again, just my .02.

I have an NV4500 with the 5th gear upgrade and a valair clutch, so Im not too worried about the tranny...

What are your temps like? We dont have mountains to pull through (Ont, Minnesota, Wisconsin)

I've used Meth before and was very impressed, so I'll probably keep that, and I definetly want to do the studs and HG while the motor is out.

Thanks for the input!:tu:

OK, I didn't get you would have the motor out. You might talk to someone about cams then. I only know one person directly that did this to his. He tows with over 500 hp and really thought the cam made a huge difference in smoothing out the power, increasing 2-5 mpg and better towing performance. Much easier to do this swap with the motor out, head off, etc. Good luck with your build, you will love it.:c:

Studs are probably a good deal. I'm not sold on the prices they get for cold air systems. Depending on the year I would work the pump before putting injectors in. If you put to big of an injector heat is impossible to control.

I don't know anything about single turbos and won't spend the money they want for them when I can build small towing twins for half the price.

Do a lot of reading and put all the free mods on before spending the money.

This is just my opinion and order I would go. I didn't put the studs in first so now I'm paying for it so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Gauges first, I didn't but never claimed to be smart and I don't tow with this truck.
studs first, then work over the afc for max fuel and put a mack rack plug in if it's not a 913 pump. Timing would be next, I did this when the kdp was fixed. I racked the barrels,some will argue for or against this but it's a nice 30 to 50 horse gain. On the turbo, I build my own twin setups,just hard to beat for cheap air. After this is all done then go with injectors, with care to not go to big if towing.

I forgot governor springs I would do these first, best bang for the buck!

400 is easy to get to, you can do it with your stock turbo if you want? wont be very efficient but you can get there. dont get a 66mm turbo WAY to big for a tow rig. a 62/65/12 or 14 will be awsome and be capable a quite a bit more than 400 ponies. and you can mark intake off your list unless you just want one. no HP difference really. stock is fine.

A he351 from the late 04 to 06 will support 400 and spool as good or better than the hx or hc1. Usually can be had for 300 more or less.

You have a 96 you're stock injectors are fine, 96-98 have larger spray orifices.
For fuel plate a #10 won't do, you will need a #6
29 bucks:
DODGE CUMMINS DIESEL FUEL TORQUE PLATE SOLID 1PC #6 # 6 | eBay

Fuel plate, 4" downpipe/exhaust/muffler delete, advance timing, and install a dryflow air filter of some kind. Amsoil and other aftermarket companies make them, just make sure it is DRY. Also get a pre-filter.

I run a 4510 filter, synthetic media (NOT PAPER!!!!), and it is dry.. no oil to get sucked into the turbo.
You should also locate a pre-filter, this will keep your filter looking new.
25 bucks for one but it's important.
https://www.iceboxintakes.com/store/...-covers-eapf20
And this is the filter:
Amsoil EaAU 4510 Nanofiber Air Filter - Icebox Cold Air Intake Systems

78 for filter, 25 prefilter, you're looking at 103 plus shipping.
This is THE highest flowing air filter (with least restriction) that I could find ON THE MARKET.

PS. All you need to do is get a 4" PVC coupler
buy the air filter and simply take it with you to lowes or home depot and you'll see how easy it is to upgrade.

I feel the need to click "thanks" on all these posts, you guys are awesome.

So I'm thinking I need to revise my plans.

Gunmetal - is it true that the 96 automatic trucks had smaller injectors? If so - I may need a change (my truck was born an auto). I like the air filter setup you've developed - its cool to see people that have taken some time to research stuff. I agree with dry flow filters. I'll make my own pipe and hook it into something similar to that.

Gwhammy - Do you have more info on building compounds? Im pretty handy with a welder and fabbing stuff up, Im changing everything else on the truck, might as well be able to say that it has twins!:jump: As for the intake - it was a present from a very awesome girlfriend.... It looks cool if nothing else.


Thanks again guys

49 state 160/175 hp - 5x9 .000318
180 hp- 5x9.5 .000354
160 hp cpl 1863, (actually a 180)- 5x9.5 .000354
all California trucks '96-98 were 180 hp- 5x9.5 .000354
215 hp - 5x10.25 .01025 .000412
300's and 330's same size - 4x12 = .000452
370's 155° - 5x12 = .000565
435's - avail in both 155° and 145° spray pattern 5x014 = .000769