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-   -   Head Gasket Setups (https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-12v-performance/7040-head-gasket-setups.html)

Monster Truck 11-29-2007 09:41 PM

Head Gasket Setups
 
Well my headgasket is leaking so Im reasearching a new setup. Id like to run about 16-16.5* of timing and no more than 50psi of boost. Will I be okay with just a marine HG? also what size gasket should I go with?

LOGANSTANFORTH 11-30-2007 05:12 AM

http://www.flatoutgaskets.com/

CHEAP copper head gaskets, they are good quality too, give them a call......

IC Smoke 11-30-2007 06:18 AM

MT
pull the head, have it O-ringed, and put a +0.010 marine gasket in.

costs for the job (2001)
300 in the O-ring
425 for studs
140 in the oversized marine gasket
70 manifold<head gaskets
50 anti-freeze coolant

My head only had a +0.005 bow in the very center which was in the tollerance to weather I would have to deck the head or not.... and I did all the work myself with some help from friends.

Its a good time to upgrade to a 3 piece manifold as well:U: yeah its a chunk of money but it should save you in the long run and if you do ever decide to go bigger with the turbo you've already "prepped" the motor for it.
Note* a O-ring motor in cold weather needs to be warmed up before you hammer on it or you risk O-ring damage*

Ian

Monster Truck 11-30-2007 10:58 AM

Where is a good place to buy the HG and o rings? I think Im going to have to limp it around for awhile until I get some money together so I can do it right. How well will just a marine HG hold? How much is labor usually for this job?

IC Smoke 11-30-2007 11:22 AM

I did all the labor myself. so I dont know what a shop would charge. Search around your area for a diesel shop that will do the O ring job. OR you can put it on a pallet and sent it someplace to be done. I think the marine gaskets are just the thicker ones +0.010 and +0.020. you'll have to make a few modifications to the headgasket to make sure all the cooling ports match up with the correct diameter.

Ian

Monster Truck 11-30-2007 05:04 PM

Is it about a 5hour job? just to swap HG's?

LOGANSTANFORTH 11-30-2007 06:08 PM

800 is what most diesel performance shops charge, that is what EEP, Scheid and Haisley all told me.......

you might as well spend a little time porting the head and might as well do heavy valve springs....

Monster Truck 11-30-2007 07:40 PM

already got 60lb springs in there, I just dont have any money to be doing head work right now. I think Im just going to do a marine HG for now and new head bolts and go in and redo it all later. I think while I have them in there Im going to have the valves adjusted and the timing set at 16*.

LOGANSTANFORTH 11-30-2007 08:29 PM

you cant afford a die-grinder, some grinding bits and cartridge rolls????? you dont happen to work at the same place i do HAHAHA

IC Smoke 11-30-2007 08:53 PM

2 Attachment(s)
here are a couple pics from my job. Id never done it before and the worst part are all the re-torques! :argh: Id say for a beginner 4 hrs to remove and 4-5 to install depending on how hard you worked at it.

the head is different to your undervalved rig but same concept
Attachment 59545
Attachment 59546

Ian

Monster Truck 11-30-2007 09:53 PM

I think if I still had a shop Id do it my self but I cant even fit my truck in the garage we have now cuase its to tall. What was so hard about the retorques?

Willy91 12-04-2007 04:38 PM

You might try looking into the cometic MLS or Phuzion for your application as well, with a set of studs. Just installed these in my buddy's truck so we'll see how it does.

Crawler 12-06-2007 11:55 AM

Either have the head machined for o-rings and use the marine gasket.

Or.

Use the cometic MLS gasket.

Either way you need to have the head surfaced and use studs.

Monster Truck 12-06-2007 05:37 PM

What is the highest psi and timing you can do without studs? and can you put in studs without pulling the head? in other words can I have the HG work done and do studs later on when I have the money for them?

LOGANSTANFORTH 12-06-2007 07:25 PM


Originally Posted by Monster Truck (Post 84304)
What is the highest psi and timing you can do without studs? and can you put in studs without pulling the head? in other words can I have the HG work done and do studs later on when I have the money for them?

one bolt at a time, and never do 2 close to each other one after the other, you risk breaking the seal, torque them wet with oil, gives a more true torque reading....

Crawler 12-06-2007 09:58 PM

Yes you an do he studs later. Do them with line sequence torque method.

As was stated use lube on the stud, nut, and washer. However don't use oil. Use moly lube as stated in the instructions for the studs.

ARP studs include ARP moly lube and all the A1s I've ever ordered for customers included ARP moly lube in the package.

So, I'm going to venture a guess that somebody high up feels that it is a better option.

~Wes~

Monster Truck 12-06-2007 10:01 PM

Ok thats good to know, I can have the hg done by a shop and do the studs my self. What is the max psi and timing the stock bolts will typically take?

Monster Truck 12-12-2007 08:18 PM

Anybody know?

RSWORDS 12-12-2007 08:34 PM

Apparently in your application less then you are making. Don;t just fix the problem... Fix the cause. If you have blown this one then it's a matter of time before the next goes.

Monster Truck 12-12-2007 10:28 PM

Im going to do a cometic mls and studs. This one hasent blow yet its just leaking coolant bellow the t stat housing.


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