Sliding The Fuel Plate?
 

I wana slide my fuel plate forward in my 98 dodge 12valve. I looked at some other threads to do it but do you have to take that whole afc off? or is there a way to do it with it still on? I got gauges and all that stuff so i think i should be safe to do it, but i honestly don't have a clue what i'll be doing and how long it might take. And i would hate to have it all taken apart and be lost. Could you guys give me sum imput.
Thanks

No four bolts take the afc off and set it to the side and slide ur plate or pull it out put it back together its simple go on youtube if your worried they have a step by step vid on how to do it!!:tu:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/show-t...on-p-pump.html On the first page I have a pic of my pump with the afc cover off so you can see the plate and 4 screws. Also attatched to the afc cover with 2 of the bolts is your fuel shutoff solinode and it will have to be rotated away from the pump to get the cover off. Any questions let me know. :c:

There are lots of threads on this site that explain and show how to do this. Be careful when sliding it forward. A little is a lot in this case.

if ya got gauges id just yank it and watch the pyro, otherwise they say FF and then back 1/8 inch to keep temps down

what do you think is a safe temp to run at?

1200* max for long pulls

are we talking about sliding the stock plate FF?

B Boyce if your worrying.. don't i took my plate out the other night first time even messing with that thing and it wasn't anywhere near as bad as i thought it might me the only thing i suggest is when you get to the drilling part take the fuel line out that runs from ur filter up around the housing and the down to the injectors i got a lil to squirrely when i was drilling and now it is costing me a new line and they are 80 bucks from the dealership:argh:

What were u drilling?!

that dang allen head. after spending about twenty minutes trying to punch it with a screw driver i said to hell with it and got the drill

what kind-of power gains you think i 'll get from it being full forward?

you will get a good bit i've noticed a lot more in mine it's pulls my trailer that i use for work 100x better

if its a stock plate there will be a slight power gain, but nothing major

k so last night i started getting the afc off. Now there is one bolt on there that is different from the rest. It has like a allen wrench head on it. It is the upper left hand one of the four. Now i know you guys talked about a bolt that i need to break off with a chisel. Is this the one? I think that everything is off other than that bolt.

yes it is

so will i just find a different bolt to put in that or what?

from what i was told every1 just leaves them out

I just left mine out ... been that way for 2.5 years now.

If you want to be safe, pull your plate out, grind it to a #100 and put it back in...

I've done 5000KM on mine with it ground to a #0.... i had it at #100 first and i'd keep it at that for consumption and driveability....

#0 gives you more smoke when you get on it...

here's a picture of how you can grind it, and here's a video that tells you how to change it:

Attachment 45841

that was the best "stock" fuel plate I've seen

my stock fuel plate look nothing like that...

thanks guys for all the help. Wasn't near as bad as i thought to do. I go it full forward now. Its got a lot more power when it shifts into overdrive. I was wondering what would be a good replacment plate for me if i want good mileage and still be able to get on it when i want some power or smoke?

Since your truck is a Auto a #10 would probably be safest... but a #100 is okay if you just watch your throttle...

don't get a replacement plate, you can grind the OEM one for free... look at my post above... when you get the plate out it will make sense...

I'm running a #10 plate from an eBay seller that works great. Not too much smoke and towing is vastly improved. Cost was good, under $30 shipped.

If I were just looking to lay into a sled or drag race, I'd dump the plate all together, but for driving long distances with a load, I figure the partial de-fueling at the cruise part of the pump ramp would be a good thing. I only have to worry about EGT at full throttle.

I'm waiting on the next round of transmission mods to slide stuff forward... :tu: