motor rebuild, hg ?s
 

i should have just made one thread in the beginning but i will now just put all my questions in one

im going to pull my motor and reseal everything on it, while its out im changing the injectors to 5x12s, o-ring the head and put 60lbs valve springs in along with a 4k gov kit and timing advance. as for the new hg should i go with a stock one? or a marine .20? also is there a right and wrong place to buy a hg from? i have seen stock fle-pro ones for like 40bux online, i read some other post on here but cant see a clear answer on whats best, it sounds like some of it will have to been decided after the head is machined

can any machine shop do the o-rings or do i have to find a specialty race shop?

also is there any other fixes or mods to do while its tore down? i have heard about putting a higher volume oil pump out of a 24v in the 12vs?????

the truck is my dd and i cant have it torn apart to long as i use it for work so i would like to round up everything i can before i start

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i just went thru the phone book and the only place in phoenix area that o-rings the head is turbo auto diesel, he wants $385 total to do the orings and another $75 to get the head decked, does that sound like a good price or am i going to get bent over?

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on second thought after seeing prices and thinking, could i just get the head decked, put a new hg in and put the studs in and not oring it? im not planning on running more than 50psi of boost but i do want to advance the timing to 20* or so

IMO if you have the head already off o ring it, the price sounds about right.

As for the headgasket keep the stock thickness and I would go with a cummins gasket.

I agree. O-rings are always good insurance. Properly seated o-rings and studs will make for a very tight seal and you dont have to be worried about whens my hg gonna blow again, especially if your running high boost and lots of timing. Your gonna be very glad you did it when you had the chance.

i was going to do either the studs right now or the orings, not both at the same time, if i do the orings im going to bottom tap the block and put the mighty diesel head bolts in for now, for some reason i cant push my 40 with the 35 14cm non wastegated housing over 35psi or so, so im not really worried about there being too much boost, although i think i may have a problem with the boost gauge that im going to look at tommrrow, i just want to advance the timing alot

i would say you have a boost leak or its waste-gated at 35. Which is about as far as i would push most hx40's.

its a non wastegated housing, it will shoot to 32psi of boost and then just acts like it hit a wall and stops, before with the stock turbo it would go to 30 off the line then work its way up to 43psi and the gauge would flutter at 43

its a hx40w with a hx35 14cm housing on it, it also did this same thing when i had my 12cm housing on it, which was wastedgated but i put a plug in the compressor so it was blocked

i have pressurized all the piping but only to about 15psi and couldnt hear any leaks, i may need to get it up to 35 or so and see what happens, just kinda affaird of something poping in my face tho,

im thinkin i may have pinched the line for the gauge but i just got done working in the heat and dont really want to go work in the 110* sun on my truck

whats your fuel pressure at?

its about 20psi under heavy acceleration, ideals between 30 and 40, i took and stretched out the ofv spring