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-   -   head stud???? (https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-12v-performance/48719-head-stud.html)

94 12valve 04-15-2010 05:58 AM


Originally Posted by jrad989 (Post 538006)
doesnt it specifically say on the directions that you have to get them milled. i think this is one of those things where its better not to make a short cut.

yes it does say that

RIGGLE21 04-15-2010 08:10 AM

Okay I installed the head studs on the truck last night and everything seemed to have worked very well.....and yes i left the washer off the rocker pedestals...there is no reason for that washer on the pedestal exept for friction but the pedestal is hard enough itself to support the nut....gonna do a once over tonight and put everything else back to gether ....thanks everyone:c:

Drothgeb 04-15-2010 09:22 AM


and yes i left the washer off the rocker pedestals...there is no reason for that washer on the pedestal exept for friction but the pedestal is hard enough itself to support the nut....

The washers are made of a much harder material than the rocker pedestals, and will create less drag on the nut when you torque it down. So to get the most accurate torque readings, you need the washers(this isn't as citical with the 90/90 method). Also, if you use the washers on some studs and not others, you won't have consistant torque across the head. This is most critical on the long studs, where you left out the washers. If you're going to spend the time and money to do studs, take full advantage of them and do them right!

94 12valve 04-15-2010 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by Drothgeb (Post 538204)
The washers are made of a much harder material than the rocker pedestals, and will create less drag on the nut when you torque it down. So to get the most accurate torque readings, you need the washers(this isn't as citical with the 90/90 method). Also, if you use the washers on some studs and not others, you won't have consistant torque across the head. This is most critical on the long studs, where you left out the washers. If you're going to spend the time and money to do studs, take full advantage of them and do them right!

:tu:

12valvetater 04-15-2010 05:33 PM

It never ceases to amaze me. :s:

hereismylife 04-16-2010 12:22 AM

I would do the mill. I would not want to take a short cut over $50. That is just me. You spent alot of money on they and not taking full advantage of the money. I know if it was only 50 instead of 200 then maybe..on a waterpump but not on a head. also with that much pressure you might warp the head.....who knows...not worth the 50 impo though...

good luck

12valvetater 04-16-2010 01:52 AM

Why even ask our opinions if you'll just do it the easiest way anyway? When I work on a truck I always tell the person what needs to be done to hold what they want and the firts thing they ask is how much will that cost, welp it'll cost a whole lot more when it flys apart and takes everything around it out at the same time.

Good luck with your decision.

hereismylife 04-16-2010 01:55 AM


Originally Posted by 12valvetater (Post 538760)
Why even ask our opinions if you'll just do it the easiest way anyway? When I work on a truck I always tell the person what needs to be done to hold what they want and the firts thing they ask is how much will that cost, welp it'll cost a whole lot more when it flys apart and takes everything around it out at the same time.

Good luck with your decision.

Very well said:tu:

RIGGLE21 04-16-2010 08:36 AM

For all the pessimistic members I did call ARP before doing the washer delete. thats where i got most of my final desision info. you just can't do it down on the head because the chamfered nuts will marr into the cast and become loose

SSpeeDEMONSS 04-22-2010 12:02 PM

1 Attachment(s)
i wouldnt risk doing it without the washers. might as well have just torqued down the stockers and ran it that way.

Attachment 47790


Garrett


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