Valve Springs
 

My question is I am considering doing a 4k GSK on my 97 12 v. and I'm wondering what the process is like changing the exhaust springs in the valves so they don't float if I put a 4k kit in. I need to change the valve cover gaskets anyway as they are leaking some oil, and I may as well make any changes in there while I have them apart. Any tips or suggestions for tools that may be needed to accomplish the spring change would be helpful.

I recently learned that 60lb springs are basically a waste of time. They have the same spring rate at 1.40 lift I think as stock springs. My suggestion is to get on hamiltons cams website and check out the forum and products pages.

What do you mean they're a waste of time? I understand with the 4k kit you're likely to float a valve without changing the springs. I'll check out the website and see what it says.

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I did a search on hamiltons cams website and haven't been able to find it. If you could post a link I would appreciate it.

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I found the site, and I'll be contacting them. Although I am more curious about the procedure of removing and reinstalling them.

Change both intake and exhaust springs if your gunna take the time to do it. Intakes float too. :c:

Thanks Pyro, I have thought it seems kind of a waste to get in there and only change the exhaust springs and not the intake.

you dont need springs, as long as you can control rpms with your foot. but i guess its easier said than done. plus its harder with an auto

I drive a Semi for a living, controlling my foot isn't a problem and I drive a 5 speed. Does anyone know of members that are also in Utah?

What really hasn't been discussed yet is the procedure for changing the springs...

You'll need a valve spring compressor that lets you change the springs while still on the truck. These are available in several ways, from one of the great vendors that support this site, from a local tool truck, from certain automotive stores, and even from on-line sales like Amazon.com. There are two tools that generally work, with personal preferences dictating the one that most guys use:

The screw type

The lever type

The rest of the valve change is similar to most other engines -- depress the spring, pop down the upper seat, remove the split keepers with a magnet, remove the stock springs, reverse the process with the new springs.

While you're in there, also set the tappet clearance (valve lash). This is supposed to be done ever 24,000 miles. I wonder just how many actually ever check their solid lifter valve lash? We've gotten so spoiled over the years driving hydraulic lifter vehicles that doing things like making internal adjustments to keep engines running at their peak power is alien to our thought process!

Geno's Garage via DodgeRam.org has a great technical article on the procedure:
B Series Valve Adjustment

Getting at the last set of valves on the rear of the engine is a bit tricky, but it can be done with patience and forbearance (of a saint :dang:).

Getting ready to do mine also...

its a good place to start with stock springs in my 1st gen turning 4200 i floated and bent a valve put the PAC break 60# on not a prob yet and there really cheap