what should i put on my 12v engine
 

i am doing a little work on a 94 single cab long bed 4x4. I have done things such as new custom front 9 (rhino-ed), had my seat re upholstered in leather, replaced carpet with vinyl, put a new flatbed, 5 inch turbo back aussie stacks, and new wrngler 35" mud tires on moto metal skull rims. It is loking real nice and everything, but i am about to start on performance. So dar my engine has been turned up, new adjustable fuel plate, and 3500 springs. But i am about to go further. I am looking for suggestions in the ollowing fields which i hope will complement each other nicely:
injectors
intake air man
intercooler
turbo
fuel delivery
injection pump
any others i have missed

This vehicle will be used as a driver to and from work, probably 40 miles a day, regularly. Not so regularly it will be used to pull a trailer load o hay up a steep grade or a cat skid steer around the local areas. I would like it run like a scalded ape when empty, enough where i can fry some o these rice burners, but i dont want to sacrifice towing capabilities as i would like to be able to shake and move when pulling something too. This truck has 4.10's and a 5 speed manual with fifth gear completely welded on. The tranny will probably replaced as well i there are any ideas on this too.

I a also looking for advice on a contact that might be able to help me with a dash conversion problem i have run into. I am looking to put the dash out of a 98 12v in this truck. It all fits and bolts up nicely. i like the dash better is my only reason. My problem is the wiring for the dash, hence in dash gauges. I anyone can help i would appreciate it, and i not suggestions on the other stuf would be appreciated as well. Thanks to all in advance.

I have Dynamite diesel injectors and DV's in my truck, I'm real happy with them. the cost to performance is good, and there not as messy as 370's. When you say air intake you mean filter? if so the BHAF is the cheapest way to go, don't waste your money on a manifold, they do nothing. Stock inter cooler should be fine for a while. Someone else will have to tell you about the turbo, I'm no expert in that area. (Phil!!) Install a big Fass or air dog, no sense cheapen out on that right now and having to upgrade again later. IP? I don't know. I drive my truck the same way you want to use yours and all my mods have worked out perfect so far.

I would recommend some SDX 5x12's maybe 14's but confirm with them on the size and a turbo in the 62/65/14 or 62/71/14 area since you are towing. You'll also probably want to o-ring the head as well to be safe but a set of studs and a new gasket should hold you up to 40 psi but I'd stud and o-ring it just to be safe. BHAF, and don't waste the money on an intake tube.....along with those upgrades to the engine you'll absolutely need to take care of the trans. Clutch and input or an auto will need a TC, VB and billet input at the minimum.

i dont think i seen where u said gauges. gauges are number one imo. a set of 5x.014 injectors and a 62/71/14 would be a good turbo for the injectors, from what all ive been told since i am currently running a set of sdx 5x.014 injectors with a stock hx35 and thats what i have been recomended to get. just need the money for it now. a set of head studs will keep u from poping a head gasket for awhile. for the fuel plate, i would go with a 0 or no plate. i would look at upgradign your input shaft to the trans and putting a dual disk clutch in. with this set up should put u over 400 rwhp. good luck with the future upgrades :rocking:

Like posted, gauges
I like the 5x12's or 5x14's
BD super B will spool very well with that, or a SPS62.
If the motor has a bunch of miles on it I would recommend pulling the head, having it surfaced, pressure tested and vacuum tested. The vacuum test will make sure the valves aren't leaking by just a little. If you have 200k or more expect to have the valves lapped. A .020" over marine gasket will help offset some of the cylinder pressure you will increase with timing. Definitely stud it. While the head is at the machine shop you will need to have the rocker pestles machined for the studs.
Pull the AFC apart and swap in the light AFC spring.
I have a #5 plate in my 94, I like it. Not really a fan of 0 plates and I don't recommend running without a plate.
A set of 181 delivery valves would really get you some fuel. 191's are a little hot and smokey.
FASS 150/150 with a new overflow valve for the P pump
Have you done your KDP yet???? If not, do it, and you can set your timing while you are there if you have the tools. I would say somewhere in the 19-20* range would be about right.

On the transmission, you just need a rebuild with the updated 5th gear parts and maybe an input shaft while its apart. Other than that, its a great unit. For towing with that kind of power, do the South Bend Street Dual Disc and be done with it. Much better manners than a single.

thanks everybody for the input and more is welcomed. i am a little rusty on some of the gargle you guys are using like KDP and what is a p pump? and what are we talkin bout with the orings and the head? is this like fire rings from ats? and to the first poster what are dv's? and what about banks dual intake elbow? does that do any good? others i can see why it does no good because the hole is the same size but banks has one that has two tube on it looks like it would make a difference or at least to the layman it does. And should i mess with my injestor pump at all? i read a lot about a 13 mm injestor pump but that seems like a lot of money like maybe its only for a real fire blowin hot rod. thanks for the help guys.

KDP killer dowel pin, there is a dowel pin that aligns the front gear housing to the block, you buy a kit that tabs the pin so it will not fall into your moving gears and cause major engine failure. P-pump is another name for the injection pump your truck has on it, know as the p7100. O-rings are like the fire rings yes, i recomend the fire rings over the o-rings but thats me. DV's are delivery valves, they are located in your injection pump, bigger ones allow more fuel. The banks dual intake is a waste, put the money else where. Dont waste your money on a 13mm injection pump, a little tweaking to your and it will take you to your goals and then some most likely.

a 13mm p-pump is for the high hp trucks. not realy meant for a daily driver.

here is my perspective shopping list total around 6500 dollars. what should i keep and what should i trash and why?
1. industrial injectoion phat shat 62 turbo
2. hx40 downpipe w clamp
3. 4" exhaust
4 spearco intercooler
5. intercooler hose clamp kit
6. high flow delivery valves
7. 50hp stage 1 inj.
8. advanced low intake
9. not exactly sure about this one maybe a turbo mount something or another
10 airdog 150gph fuel
11. 450 hp c;utch
12. twin ram air manifold
13 4000rpm gov springs
14. guage pillar
15 boost gauge
16 egt gauge
17 fuel pres 0-30
18 headstuds

Ditch the twin ram manifold.....money wasted. You'll need a 0-60psi fuel pressure gauge, you can probably do without the I/C as well.....the stock one isn't to bad.....I'd take the money from this stuff and have the head O-ringed.

I would keep the stock intercooler and stock intake manifold and use the money you will save for a dual disk clutch and an upgraded input shaft.

x2

so who does the these transmissions? bc i have had at least 4 that i can count for sure and maybe five. Everyone of them had the updated nut and 5th gear still fell off. Once that happens the best thing to do is just weld it oon. You can tack it but that dont help so i just weld the u-no-wut out of it and then when the tranny is actually broken you gotta start over. where can i get one that is ready for this hog i am building? I was reading a different topic on here that waas posted about converting to a six speed and the overall tolerance for the six speed was higher. I dont know exactly how much or anything but it was rated for more torque. and like i said im kinda fed up with it. They say that you can keep from the fifth problem by not ragging it in that gear at all. So when i bought the last transmission, i stopped pulling trailer and made sure i had 4th wound up all the way before i shifted into fifth. AND STILL fifth gear ell off. So i welded it and it was fine, but umm, it whines alot on this one so im ready to try something new. Anyone help with this?

We have yet to have a 5 speed with the upgraded components fail on us. We have done many of them, and the majority of them for guys that tow way over weight.

well thats what im doin and like i said, the upgraded components failed. Are you the guy building them or what because if thats the case i might be interested in buying one. I will put yours to the test as well. Everybody can be as sure as they want about it but i am tellin ya that fifth gear has fallen off everytime. I just feel like there is a lot to be left desired.

how the hell do you put pictures on here

Easiest way is with a Photobucket account and then copy the IMG code and paste it into your post. Other than that you have to do an attachment. After writing your post, scroll down below the smilies and you will see a button for "Manage Attachments".

As for our 5 and 6 speeds, we have a local guy that builds them for us. Out of 20 something 5 and 6 speeds in the last 5 years we have only had 1 failure, it was an input seal on a 5600.

What are you doing with the truck that would overload the 5th gear so much, assuming it was properly assembled?

sskip the stage one injectors and get some sdx 5x12's

I am just driving it. It gets the occasional load of hay up a pretty good grade on an interstate which right now the truck dont have the balls but it will hopefully after the buildup. Like i said i have heard driving habits do it to it and everything, but i have never had one that was built up or anything. Where would i get one that is built up or in good condition? Who would i contact? I think i will start a second thread to get this out there for others to see. Thanks alot, will check back here also.

something has to be wrong, there is no reason you should be going through that many nv4500's just driving and sometimes towing.

Unless all your doing is flatfooting it every where is fifth you shouldn't be having these troubles

you could alway do what im doin. i bought an updated mainshaft that is fully splined and has the correct spline pattern and uses a split key washer to take all the thrust load off the nut so it wont rock it back and forth on off. it also has the brass set screw style nut to for extra insurance. its about 400 dollars to have it put in by out local standard tranny mechanic. he also replaces the bearings and syncros while hes in there. im havin him do mine next week when i pull my tranny out for the new clutch install. Just make sure whoever does your trannys knows what he is doing.

i dont know how involved i should get with it in lew of what my plans are. After i perform the upgrades to the vehicle, it will most likely have a utility bed on it. Thats the plan anyways. So it probably wont be towing much. I will just have to see how that works out. However none of the trannys that have been in it have had updated nuts on fifth gear. I walked out to my bonyard and looked at them. So maybe it will be sufficient with the updated stuff to keep fifth on the shaft and not rollin around behind it. I remember my first time of 5th falling off, like wtf just happened. being the curious person i am i had the tear it apart. When i found 5th sitting therre and the nut right behind it i couldn't believe it. I put it back on with my fingers and it just went right back on. Again wtf just happened occured. So i tightened it down and was like cool. next time i learned to tack it. nope weld the #@$%^& out of it. Now were old hands at it. Easy and quick. Not a problem. Funny how tings work out.

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now i am having problems with the fuel shutoff soleniod, which wires are supposed to be what voltage coming into that thing. It does not engage when you turn the key on. you go over there and pull it up it sticks. turn the key off it falls and turn the key on again and start all over.

I don't recommend welding the nut on anytime you weld something that has been heat treated you run the risk of weakening it to the point of breaking. I lost my fifth gear a few months back and have just now gotten my new nut now I need to figure out how to get it tight enough. I wish I had the money for a full splined main.