turbo? lost please help....
 

i have a 1995 dodge 3500 diesel with a holset H1C turbo that isnt working. The turbo locked up. I pulled the turbo apart and found pieces all kinds amd the intake fan was worn extremely bad. a local highway robber in corpus christi quoted me 899.99$ to rebuild it i walked away crying , but found one on ebay . the turbo is a H1C also , but is listed fo a 1988-1993 dodge i wish to find out if it is the same. oh and my truck is mainly stock but are there any other turbos that will work with my truck. all i have is a fuel plate 5 in straight pipe with stack thanks.

/me moves

i think they are the same you may need to clock it but an H1C is and H1C the flanges are the same on all of them so it will bolt up

check the for sale adds I'm sure you could find a h1c or an hx35 for way cheeper than $900. and a h1c from a 89-93 will fit on your truck I used to have one on mine.

is there a difference between the hc1 and the hx 35. i have found them alot cheaper then 900 , but no very little about turbos.

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are there any weak points on these turbos that i need to no. there was only 50,000 miles on the motor when it self distructed. bought the motor new 3 years ago. payed out the ass for that motor from dodge.

go hx40

:hi: I sent Mike (XLR8R) a PM for you to see if he's got anything laying around his shop that might work for you. I also sent him a link to this thread. Hopefully that will turn something up for you.

thankyou for the help i went to the web site on XLR8R's page. damn nice stuff on there i had to go to another site that one was exciting me to muich.

You're welcome. Mike does some very nice custom fab work. It wouldn't take me long at all to spend a bunch of money buying toys there. Hopefully he will have something that will work for you or know sombody who does.
I have another guy I can check with tomorrow too.

Ryan, you might consider buying a rebuild kit for your turbo, or have it professionally rebuilt.
There's a place on the southern of DFW that does good work, and of course we recondition them as well.

Rebuild kits can run anywhere from $75-150, but don't bother if the compressor, turbine or housings are damaged.

Should be able to get a decent H1C for a LOT less than quoted!

Thank you mike and and ETXblue for all the much needed advice i belive ya'll have saved my ass. i found some on ebay for 280. reman. thats a hell of alot less then 900. these guys down here are nuts. oh and mike where are you located at in texas. there are many thigs that cought my eye on your page.

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forgot about this should there be oil going to the turbo at all times. because i noticed that there is only oil flowing to the turbo when acceleration is added. no oil flowing at an idle. is this normal.

There should always be oil flow, but volume will increase when RPM's are added.

:U: Cool - glad you found a better H1C price, Ryan!

We're about a half-hour north of Dallas... soon to be in our new shop. :rocking:

You should check the oil pressure at idle & rated RPM with a real gauge (can be a cheap one threaded into the filter head's pressure port) to make sure - turbo's gonna last a lot longer with oil through the thrust & sleeve bearings.

Of course, since the CTD's internal lubrication system models as a fixed orifice, oil pressure & flow rate necessarily rise proportionally with pump RPM (gear driven off the crank). :ok1:

Hey Ryan,
Glad things worked out for you. :U:

Mike, let me know when you get ready to move and Lucus and I will come give you a hand.

Thanks Jim! :5:

i dont no if this is good for the motor or not , but started it without the turbo on it and the was no oil flowing the threaded line that is supposted to goto the turbo. yet when i give it gas it shoots oil every where. thats the only thing im scared of.

That's your problem right there Ryan!

12 valves will run on darn near everything, but gas is a no-no... :ph:

























:tttt: Seriously, though - probably not an issue... plenty of oil through the turbo with RPM (thus load & heat), and the residual oil remaining in the CHRA at idle should keep the bronze bearings healthy.

ok hell yea getting happy every time i log onto this site. last question i swear what HP are the hx35's good up to. im sitting around 240 the turbo i found says for 180 , but am i still good.

Factory HX35's are really good to about 350

hmmm, at idle mine flows a solid stream out the oil line, you have to have oil flowing through the turbo all the time because it is oil cooled aswell as lubed by the oil:humm: I am betting that the line is collapsed internally and it should be replaced or you will trash the new turbo

Good point - I neglected heat soak at idle after load... be easy to thread a fitting into the adjacent pressure port & check flow at idle, to make sure it isn't the oil pump or pressure regulator.

does anyone no what the proper oil press. should be? and bout how much a new pump is ?

5010965AA is the oil pump number (or should be) with a retail of around $330.00 should cost you between $180-225. The oil pressure regulator opens at 60 PSI. The first step would be to check oil pressure at the filter head where the line comes out. Oil pump failures are somewhat rare. It will cause pump failure. Have you recently changed your filter?

changed the oil about 1000 miles before break down

What type of filter. These symptoms are similar to those found in the failures seen in the early fram filters!

it was fram

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the truck has good oil press i dont no about the turbo though checking that in the morning.

:booo:

what's a good oil filter then?

I only run purolator or mopar! Amsoil and AFE also make some good filters!

FleetGuard (Cummins) :U:

ok thanks guys