Fuel Plate
i kepp hearing guys saying they cut their own fuel plate. is that hard to do and what do you have to do eactly
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not hard at all, just need to really pull it out and grind on it however you wish
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this should give you a good idea of how we modify our plates. Its really simple, and when you do grind it, it doesn't have to by 100% exact. But before you mess with your plate, you should look into getting some gauges, especially a pyrometer. ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Attachment 52290 |
if i grnd the plate to 100 and only slide it half way should i still have guages?
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GET GAUGES! unless you wanna leave it stock, it will save you alot of money in the long run
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Gauges are a good idea no matter what. If nothing else they can help diagnose any problems as well as monitoring your investment.
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if i grind it and leave it in tis stock postion will it be okay? i dont have enough for guages so thoase will have to wait but i dont want to wait on powering it up!
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Youre still adding more fuel than stock - I wouldnt touch it unless I had a pyrometer installed.
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
(Post 353787)
Youre still adding more fuel than stock - I wouldnt touch it unless I had a pyrometer installed.
You say you don't have he money now for gauges but if you grind the plate and start enjoying the extra H.P. with out monitoring exhaust temps then you definitely don't have the money for a possible rebuild. Get the Gauges!!! |
Originally Posted by relay93
(Post 353815)
Listen to what they are telling you about the gauges. I installed gauges 6 months before I installed my first plate and that was 8 years ago. Spend your money wisely and get at least the EGT gauge and for a few dollars more a boost gauge minimum of 60 psi:U:.
You say you don't have he money now for gauges but if you grind the plate and start enjoying the extra H.P. with out monitoring exhaust temps then you definitely don't have the money for a possible rebuild. Get the Gauges!!! |
Originally Posted by 94cummins12v
(Post 353817)
dont bother on gettings a boost guage over 60 garantee you wont use it unless you plan on dumping 10k into performance if you plan on staying stock turbo or mild upgrade do a 35 if you wwant a bit more just get the 60psi, as far as egt most come in a 1400 or 1600 i went with the 1600 becasue i tow alot
My EGT gauge goes to 1500 and the was the highest reading gauge a person could purchase in 2000. I tow as well and if I start seeing 1300 I back out of the fuel. |
if your leaving it stock i still would bother getting a 60 since anything over 35 is wasted anyway, i ran a 35 gage for years even with an aftermarket turbo anything over 35 isnt effeicent unless you have a big turbo
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Originally Posted by 94cummins12v
(Post 353824)
if your leaving it stock i still would bother getting a 60 since anything over 35 is wasted anyway, i ran a 35 gage for years even with an aftermarket turbo anything over 35 isnt effeicent unless you have a big turbo
You know that once they are bitten by the extra fuel the turbo purchase isn't far behind. If I was just starting on mods I too would purchase the 60psi gauge along with an EGT gauge. :U: |
depends on the person and what the truck is used for. theres a good ole boy hear with no guages running a 215 pump, lazer dvs, 370 ddp3 injectors with just a pyro and stock wh1c turbo(which is smaller than the hx35) all he does is tow his 37' toyhauler to camp sites
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Great at least he has an EGT gauge which is the main gauge to have and what others have been trying to tell young gun to get before he mese with the fuel plate.
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weel i was gonna get stacks but i guess ill stay with my stock exhaust and get guages. once july comes around and i bale straw ill have the money for whatever i want:U:
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FYI before you do any engine mods beef up the tranny first
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dont need to. i got an ats 47 rh :choochoo::choochoo: it can hanlde up to 800 horse or somethin like that
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you have a tc to?
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yeah i believe so.
details== 47RH Stage 3 Package, 1994-95 Dodge 4wd$5,225.00 1994-95 Dodge Ram 4WD w/ 12V 5.9L Cummins, Stage 3 Auto Trans Package. Includes: - ATS Built 47-RH Auto Trans - ATS 5 Star Viskus Clutch Drive Torque Converter - ATS Extra Deep Transmission Pan - ATS Billet Input Shaft - ATS Commander Torque Converter Lock-Up Controller |
nice wish i had that set up:U:
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ok then you are ready to rock
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just get some f#@*in' gauges!!pyro at least!
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yeah the trans came with the truck. yeah ill get guages first then cut my fuel plate then gsk kit and injectors. whats a good set of 150(some where around 150) horse injectors go for?
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usually about $200.00 and up.
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a piece?
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- question? i found a 5000 gsk kit for 25 bucks more than a 4000 gsk. should i just go with the 5k |
the cheapest set of remans is gonna cost you between 2- $300.00 but most sets are around $500.00.
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Originally Posted by young gun
(Post 354268)
a piece?
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- question? i found a 5000 gsk kit for 25 bucks more than a 4000 gsk. should i just go with the 5k |
but its not like its gonna hurt anything and for another 25 bucks why not right?
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the stock rev limit is less than 3000 it red lines at 3000.do you really want the ability yo turn that motor 2000 rpm's over the stock limit.that motor won't last long if you do decide to turn it 5000 rpm's a couple times.i'd stick with the 4000!
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Originally Posted by young gun
(Post 354279)
but its not like its gonna hurt anything and for another 25 bucks why not right?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by BAD ASS 1997 RAM 2500
(Post 354285)
the stock rev limit is less than 3000 it red lines at 3000.do you really want the ability yo turn that motor 2000 rpm's over the stock limit.that motor won't last long if you do decide to turn it 5000 rpm's a couple times.i'd stick with the 4000!
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Originally Posted by BAD ASS 1997 RAM 2500
(Post 354285)
the stock rev limit is less than 3000 it red lines at 3000.do you really want the ability yo turn that motor 2000 rpm's over the stock limit.that motor won't last long if you do decide to turn it 5000 rpm's a couple times.i'd stick with the 4000!
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Originally Posted by BAD ASS 1997 RAM 2500
(Post 354285)
the stock rev limit is less than 3000 it red lines at 3000.do you really want the ability yo turn that motor 2000 rpm's over the stock limit.that motor won't last long if you do decide to turn it 5000 rpm's a couple times.i'd stick with the 4000!
yeah youre right. ill stick with the 4ks. someone oline said they got one for $80 but the only onees i found were $225.00. anyone know a place to get ceaper ones? |
talk to tony at mighty diesel his name on here is deisel pap or some thin like that. just got my 4k kit in the mail. got it for 80 bucks but hurry bc the prices will be goin up 1-877-354-7008
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do you know when the prices are gonna go up?
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dont no pm him deisel pap
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should i increase timing if i get a gsk kit and have my plate cut to 100 and 1/3 forward?
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increase time and it will hel lower egt and mpg just hareder cold starts
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Better get valve springs if you run the 4ks and I'm serious find a kit that comes with them if you can I say go with pdrs kit but get what you want just put the damn vavle springs in or kiss the motor goodbye when you take it to 4 and float a valve
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tony could get you a whole set of 60lb springs (12) not the cheap ones for like 130 so like 210 the whole kit
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