newbie 100 vs. 0 plate cut
 

I've got a million times revisited question. Could someone post a pic of one of each of these plates? I want to know which one will be better for me.

My truck goes well enough empty, but that 900rpm drop into OD when I pull a trailer realy hurts my pride(speed limit here is 110km/h, so OD off button is out of the question). As the tranny changes I actualy get increased pedal pressure, and the motor bogs down hard, I'd be willing to bet I lose half my boost. My 10 years experience lays in boosted imports, so diesels are a new world for me.

I'm taking my wife and two kids on Vacation this summer, and I have an older 20' camper trailer to pull over the Rockies to Vancouver and back. I want enough Jam to pull the hills, without cooking everything. I only paid 5G for the truck and I realy like it. I don't realy want to redneck-rig everything, but I'm open to Ideas.

I guesse that half the miles are around town MT and the other half are light to medium pulling, with the occasional rice bashing in "the Hutterite truck":c:

the lower the plate profile the more fuel you will obtain, with a stock turbo you will want to cut off the wastegate so it catches up with the fuel or you will be making the issue worse, what plate do you currently have?

If youre towing I dont think you want any more plate than a 10 (especially if youre towing a trailer in BC).

Heres the profiles:

Attachment 53841

What kind of transmission upgrades do you have planned? Between the plate and the trailer - your tranny is going to be begging for mercy.



Welcome to the site BTW....:c:

ya you wouldnt want to do to much to it with a stock tranny, i fried my clutch with a #5 plate alone

you guys are awsome, EXACTLY the info I needed. BTW I am very, very excited about this foum...

Oh and I have a stock plate, new pump, new lift pump

Another ?? - do you have a pyrometer and boost guage?

If not, that is the starting point. Might be a good idea to add a transmission temp guage since you are planning on doing some towing. Fuel pressure is not mandatory but can help you when it comes time to troubleshoot performance issues.

I will dig up some links for you that will help educate you on tuning the injector pump. As for the aftermarket plate, go with a 10, and then if you dont like it - cut it to a different more aggressive profile. You can vary the Hp quite a bit, simply by moving the plate and afc housing around.

For the tranny, at the very least, you will be wanting a torque converter upgrade (a triple disk is good way to go), and an aftermarket valve body. There are a number of good tranny places to get stuff at.


Glad you like the forum - we are more relaxed than most and have some very good info on hand.

Here's a few links...


turning up a 12v


turning up a p7100


fuel plate & AFC


Cheap mods 12v

:hi: :howdy: Welcome n enjoy your stay !!

Those are the links I was thinking of - thanks.

No Problem! :c:

double post sorry

good luck with the price tag on the tc and vb there not cheep if you want big power

Ok more newbie questions....
1) There is no hose on my truck going directly from the afc housing to the wastegate.
>There is a hose going from the afc housing directly to the intake horn, and another from the charge side of the turbo piping right next to the turbo directly to the wastegate. is this normal? I seem to be reading that there needs to be a hose directly from the afc to the wastegate, and no mention of the way mine is.

2)I was paying attention to how my truck was running today before I start any mods. Right now I have a 16 foot bobcat trailer(2- 3500# axels) with a 1500# car on. really the truck doesn't even know its there(till I need to stop).
> It idles warmed at 810-820 rpm. no smoke
> It never even puffs starting off, WOT or not.
> It starts to pull good at 1150-1200rpm and pulls strong till 1950. it flatens out, Then at 2150 it grabs second gear, drops 50rpm, climbs to 2150, grabs 3rd drops 50,climbs to 2150, grabs 4th, cimbs to 2200 grabs O/D and then drops to 1250 and falls flat on its face.
Sound like a normal shift pattern???
>I have to pull my trailers at 120km/h just keep moving it seems. Also, in O/D I cant give it more than half throttle( the pedal is noticably firmer at half throttle only in O/D)or I will actualy slow down. This doesnt help driving into the wind or pulling a trailer.

3) when its at 2100rpm or above it sounds and feels like its got floating valves(really chattery)and never goes above 2200rpm. will the 60# valve springs help this?? and if so do I need to do both intake and exhaust springs, or just exhaust???

Pyro, Boost, Tranny Temp, and under bed fan cooled Tranny cooler on the way.

Thanx for the help and advice I've been doing a lot of reading.

I am going to move the afc housing and plate and star wheel for now and see where that takes me. Also I'm changing the muffler and maybe the down pipe ASAP.

I will try to budget in the torque converter and valve body before we leave in august.

AWSOME site:canada:

Governor springs will help out alot. There is a thread on another sight about shimming the governor springs with metric washers, some have alot of luck with it and some don't. It should turn more rpm's before the governor shuts it down.
I think you have the 160 or 175 horse pump. With cheap mods you could blow right threw the stock converter.

Alright, I've diesel bombed my truck!!!

before I even left for work this morning I pulled out the turbo silencer. F-yah!!!,

I just got a K&N to go in the stock air box not to long ago, so i am going to modify the lower half to allow more air flow to the filter and of course hear the turbo better.

Pulled the afc off tonight, moved the plate 3/4 of the way forward, and pushed the afc all the way forward. I then turned the starwheel about 1 1/2 turn toward the engine. i can't believe its that simple. and what a difference!!!!!:woot:

The truck is a whole different animal!!! Thank you everyone

Before I came home from work I took off the topper and cleaned all my crap out of the box. Then while I had it in the garage I took off those gay fibreglass fender skirts/running boards it had on.
This truck just went from work truck to toy truck in one day. Weather permitting I'll shoot some pics tomorrow.

You have a similar setup to mine, but mine's a dually with a 5 spd... I'm not sure where you live, but since you're speaking of crossing the rockies into vancouver, I'll assume alberta... go to Mopac auto if you're in edmonton and they have more pyrometers than you can shake a stick at.. I just got one today with a boost guage for a grand total of 236 CDN which is a lot better than some other auto parts stores...

wait till you put a perfomance plate on it:rocking:.. when you buy the performance plate get it on ebay,,,$29usd. cheapest 70hp you will get!

I ground my stock plate to a #10... Like Ronald McDonald says... "I'm lovin it".. breaking loose in 5th on a cold dry road is fun

I dout you are spinning your dually wheels in 5th grear with just a fuel plate ... Sounds to me like you clutch is slipping

i know someone who just took the plate out is this not normal? his truck runs great with no issues just wondering

Don't take the plate out. Its called a fuel stop plate for a reason AKA runaway.

Slide that plate all the way forward. Next, I would go 1 click tighter on the governor springs. I bet it would run much better. From there you need to go to a shop and have the timing bumped to 15.5*. When you go to a bigger plate, then bump it more. I like the #5 plate full forward and 17.5* timing. Good mix.

Gauges - MUST HAVE!

Are You SURE about this?.....

There are many reasons that a P-Pump may runaway but plateless is not one of them.

i have to concur..... i have ran a few years plateless myself, even did some dyno runs showing the difference between a 100 and plateless and posted the dyno sheet up on this site. that was with stock everything but exhaust and intake to the turbo, once i put in the 191's and 370's i couldn't run plateless as there was WAY too much fuel to burn so i stuck the 100 plate back in the stock location and went about my way.....

don't get me wrong, i'm not going to recommend running plateless but i am not going to condemn someone for doing it either.....

there is nothing wrong with running plateless FYI running a 0 FF is the same as no plate at all

I agree...I don't like to run with out it but it can and has been done. THe AFC does more to control things that the plate anyway when the plate if FF.

well the clutch is slipping NOW, but when the truck's ass end moves sideways, that's wheelspin.. roads up here are cold so it's not that hard

How do you take off the turbo silencer?

What was the HP differnce?