Fuel Plate Grinding...
 

Anyone got a profile or paper template for grinding a 100 plate. I have a #11 that I would like to re-profile.

Photos, faxes, or emails welcome.

There is a really good one floating around here but i dont have it saved. here is another that has most of the common ones.

Do you have a tst #11?

Any reason you wouldn't just go with a zero plate?

Fuels harder down low and if you havent move the gov arm the arm can go under the plate.

:iws: i had mine grinded all the way i just made sure the gov arm struck the plate and didnt slide under :U:

Tune your afc to bring the fuel on when you want to. You can remove the screw that adjusts the governor arm with the zero plate. The AFC is what controls the fuel prior boost being "seen". If you had the AFC foot and barrel ground, that would give you more fuel down low than just a zero plate by itself, by the way.

Yes... I am happy with the newly found power. I know I need to fine tune the AFC. I get a bit more gray smoke than I would like to see... I know that while the engine is off the arm is about 1/8" + under the striking edge of the plate. I need to mess with the star wheel. I loosened the locknut on the back of the AFC and turned the screw in until it Juuust hit the diaphram. I need to fine tune that. Still not 100% on all the functions of everything - but I have been educating myself on and off for 8yrs now with CTD in my blood...

So when the truck is OFF... the arm should be striking the EDGE of the plate? I've read the write up where it should be adjusted at Idle.

so when you play with them little screw on the back of the AFC it will bring the arm up or down?

Now everything I have read says to screw the bottom left screw IN and it will raise the Arm.

I haven't done it yet - so everything is hear-say and not experience.

Here is a link to what I have read...

CumminsDatabase.com :: Turning Up A P7100 Pump

It doesn't necessarily move the arm up or down, just increases or decreases the distance of the arc it travels on. With the afc off and the plate removed, you can move the throttle lever and see what I'm talking about. I believe turning the screw right will "raise" the arm, per say, to contact the bottom of the plate.

When I move the throttle arm I see the gov arm go forward and under the torque plate. I looked at it with the plate still in. I will try some adjusting and fine tuning. I sure wish I could come up with a quick connect intake... On-Off, On-Off...

You guys are checking it with the shut off pulled up right?

:c:

Very good point, Ducky. Simplest way to do it is remove the two bolts from the shutoff solenoid attached to the bracket.

Yes, the arm will slide under the plate, if A) you grind your stocker to a #0, and B) you don't adjust the governor arm to compensate. It is a fairly easy process to do. I'm not sure how the fuel filter housings are set up on other 12 valves, but if they're like mine, get yourself a small flathead apex bit and a 1/4" (I believe) combination wrench. It will make life a lot easier. Also, when you adjust the nut, you may not be able to get the socket for the jamb nut in there. Lift the throttle lever slightly, as this will allow a better angle on the nut, than with the lever down. Wish you guys were closer, I'd stop by and help. Some things are easier shown, than explained.

tttt

hay guys, i dont want to sound stupid but im going to anyway. im completly new to bombing , have a 06 dodge. is this something i can do to it? what will this do for me if i can ? trying to learn as much as i can but a lot of this is GREEK to me . so please be patient w/me :humm:

looking for all the cheep and free power i can get

your 06 dosen't have a fuel plate. all you can do is buy a programmer for it.

thats why this is called the 12v section not the comon rail section

I posted pictures from when I did the #100 in my truck...

https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-1...tml#post264512

Hey guys awesome site first off. I am new to grinding plates. I made my stocker a zero, by milling it flat. My issue is that I have a mack afc delete cover that prevents me from setting the plate full forward. When using the afc delete cover I am forced to be aprox 1/8-1/4 from full forward or it hits the cover. I wonder if that makes much difference on a zero plate anyway? I wound up putting the truck back together with no plate and it fuels fairly well. Other 12-valves I have had have fueled much harder than this one. I am really shocked that it smokes so little without afc and no plate!! The combo is .22 dvs, 140 ddp inj, 4k gov springs (throttle seems a little to touchy for me), 62/12 HTT, 4" exh. I guess my main question is how much does plte position effect a zero plate?

Thanks Again!!

Now what will happen if the gov arm gets under the plate. or is not riding along the plate stupid question for some. Iam just gathering info.

itll run like crap if it goes under the plate

May thats what is wrong with mine then. I have good low end, just not good on top end.

I have a question as well, could someone knowledgeable describe the different areas of the plate with respect to grinding? IE, the bottom affects low RPM while the top is higher RPM, as well as why that little hook is in the midsection of the #10 plate as well as how important it would be to get a right angle (hard to grind) on that hook, if someone happens to have one laying around, a couple measurements would be great as well (I've grown up reading CAD drawings, I can't help it)

ebay $29. any number plate you want shipped to you house (shipping included).:tu:

Or just take it out and leave it out.