12 Valve on a budget
 

Hey guys Im new to this forum and I need some help from the experts. Im looking at a 98 12valve to replace my current truck and I want to know how to upgrade the power without roasting the tranny while on a budget. I was thinking a 4in exhaust, a bhaf, and. a #10 fuel plate. How much will these mods help me? Its got the stock automatic transmission and I cant afford 5k for a built transmission, so I dont want to make to much power and blow the tranny. If I put in an aftermarket torque converter will that help? Im also curious about how you adjust the speedometer since its all mechanical. Thanks for the help guys.

:howdy:!! Lots of 12 valve owners aboard and they can give you a blethera of info.

The steps for turning up a P7100 pump are:
1) Remove your AFC Housing
2) Mod Your Fuel Plate either slide it forward or purchase a cut one
3) Adjust the governor lever to contact the fuel plate
4) Crank the star Wheel Towards the motor
5) Slide The AFC housing all the way forward
Details Below......

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn01.gif First of all Know Your Pump
Only 1994-1998 trucks have the P7100 Pump
The Control Parts List number or CPL number is located on the engine data plate, which can be found on the drivers side of the timing gear cover. The engine data plate includes such information as the CPL number, engine serial number, and pump timing information.
AFC Removal


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn02.gif If you do almost any pump work you have to take the AFC housing off.
Remove front passenger side AFC housing break off screw. NOTE: This screw is a factory break off screw with rounded head and no screw driver, allen head or TORX slot. Use a hand impact tool with a 6 inch long 1/4" extension and a T15 TORX bit to remove this screw. A center punch may be required to start a hole in the center of this screw. Set the hand impact tool in the removal position (counter clockwise) and use light hammer taps on the impact tool to loosen this screw. Tap progressively harder on the impact tool until the screw loosens. This method of removal forms a TORX shape into the screw allowing it to be reinstalled later with the T15 TORX bit. In some cases the hole in the top of this screw is too large for the T15 bit thus use the T20 TORX bit. There is usually a lock washer and flat washer under each of these screws. OPTIONAL: A sharp chisel can be used to remove the break off screw by making a notch in the outside diameter of the head, then applying a tangential force with light blows to the chisel counterclockwise to remove the screw.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn03.jpg AFC Cut Away

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn04.gif Fuel Plate


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn05.gif With the AFC housing removed you can now see the fuel plate .
Sliding the stock plate will increase HP quite a bit. However, the stock plate profile is not designed for that so the result is usually EGT problems. Home ground plates are not a good idea either. Pump experts say to NEVER remove the plate completely. There is a pin in the pump that will eventually wear and break causeing very expensive damage. Slide the plate ATW Foward and if you still want more contact TST for a Cut Plate , they will recommend one for your truck

Governor Lever Adjustment


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn07.jpg This is a cut away view of the governor of a P7100 pump. Notice how the lever hit the cam plate flush at the very bottom edge. To check your adjustment the throttle lever needs to be moved until the lever just touches the cam plate. With the AFC housing removed, look down through the opening behind the cam plate and see where the lever is striking the plate. This should be done with the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid in the run ( or pulled up ) position.
Where the lever strikes the cam plate will vary depending on the style and design of the cam plate you are using. For plates similar to the stock plate, like shown below, this lever is set correctly. It is adjusted so the lever is flush with the bottom edge of the plate, and does not ride under the plate.
(Picture Courtesy of BD Power)

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn08.jpg For cam plates, like a TST #6 for example, that have a taper at the very bottom of the plate, adjust the lever so the lever hits at the tip of the bottom nose on the plate. It is OK to be slightly below that. However too far down causes the lever to be held back as the RPM's rise. This causes the loss in bottom end power, with the sudden surge as the lever finally clears the nose and hits the main fueling curve.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn09.jpg This is what the pump looks like from the back with the cover removed. Do not change the adjustment in the upper right hand corner. The adjustment in the lower left hand corner is the one to make. Loosen the locknut ( 10mm socket required ). Making very small adjustments to the screw, adjust the lever the proper height. Now tighten the locknut.
One thing to realize about the plate is that it is properly called a full load throttle stop. What this means is that if you are not running at WOT or close to it the plate is not doing anything. It's just taking up space in the pump.
Star Wheel Adjustment


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn10.gif To adjust, remove the large plug on top of the AFC housing using an 8 mm allen wrench. Take care not to loose the sealing washer under the plug. Removing the plug exposes a star wheel which changes the quickness of fueling response to boost. If acceleration is weak with minimal smoke, rotate top of the star wheel toward the engine a few revolutions. If vehicle has heavy black smoke on initial acceleration, rotate top of star wheel away from engine a few revolutions. Reinstall large plug with sealing washer and test drive vehicle again. It may take repeated attempts to get this adjustment set. If heavy smoke is still encountered with star wheel moved completely to rear position, loosen AFC housing and slide it rearward a 1/16 inch, retighten and test again. Repeat unit desired results occur.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn11.jpg
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...100_turn12.jpg

Wow, that was a lot of stuff. It all sounds pretty good, I just might need some help actually doing all of it. So those are all free mods except for the new fuel plate and they will all help make more power?

:U: thanks

Do you have gauges?

A #10 will roast a stock trans any power mod will over time.

I would get a TC if you can afford one. Then grind your plate to a #100. Fallow that up with a 3K or 4K GSk add the 4" and intake (a stock airbox or BHAF will do) and you will have a nice tire roasting setup. Just take it easy with the stock shafts in the trans.

http://www.tstproducts.com/ProductImages/pklisting.gif

Yea I figured that gauges would be a must. So to about what hp/tq will just the new torque converter be enough to make sure I dont blow the transmission. Im not going to be racing an stuff at first but I want to get into sled pulling later on.

Dont need a new fuel plate grind your own

Hey dieselminded, if I do all the free stuff with the engine and add a new intake and a 4in exhaust about what power level do you think Id be at? And how hard is it to grind the stock fuel plate?

if you can run a grinder, you can grind the fuel plate. Also, I would recommend a valvebody to go along with your TQ converter when you get it. Gauges are everyone's best friend, make sure you have them. They also help in diagnosing some problems, help with tuning, save your engine and trans. from melting down into 1 solid piece...

Yea melting everything into one piece is something Id like to avoid, could I install the guages by myself or should I have a proffesional do it? I dont have much experience, but if its simple I could figure it out. Also what guages should I get?

EGT, Trans and boost. Boost isn't really necessary but its cheap, fun to watch and a good tool for figuring out problems.

If you can drill and tap a hole you can put them in.
:c:

Guages are pretty easy - if you can change your own oil, you can install them. plus we can help you with any questions you may have.

Cool thanks for the help guys. What is a valvebody and how much do they cost? Ive got around $1500 to work with for the time being

The valve body is what controls your transmission. check out goerend bros. transmissions Goerend Transmission Incorporated they have great products. we just put the trans in my 12v it will be finished tonight as soon as i get the new dipstick in. where in Md are you

Near Galena :U:

I used to be stationed in Still Pond, not too far from you. On my truck i did the Gauges, intake, exhaust and #10 plate on my truck at first then as soon as i put the 3k gsk on it i blew the trans. i was told it was because of the shift points of the stock transmission. are you on DTR too.

Thats cool, Ive got a couple friends who live in Still Pond. An that sux about your trans. Whats DTR?

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Could you fit 35s on a 2500 4x4 with just a leveling kit?

33s with just a leveling kit on a 2nd gen.

Dam so how much lift would I need to clear 35s with no rubbing?

4-5" for 35's. i had 33x12.50 on my 98 and it just fit with a skyjacker leveling kit.

If you dont do heavy offroading you can fit 35's with just a levelling kit. Lots of guys go that route.

all i have is a 2 in leveling kit on my 94 snd gen and im clearing 315/75/16 with no rubbing, i had 35s with no leveling kit but they rubbed a little

i have a friend who has 35's on his 2nd gen, without leveling and didnt rub. i would get the leveling kit to be safe, or a lift if you like the look

you will or won't rub depending on the offset of the wheel. i've seen 315's clear with nothing at all. save some money and grind your plate as said already. check ebay and you'll find the least expensive gauge sets. goerend suncoast nadp dtt and hts are some more tranny companies to pick from. that way you can maybe find one that's more your price range.

Well I do take my trucks off road a lot so I guess Il just go with 33s for the time being. Would they fit stock or would I have to get a leveling kit? And how do you adjust the speedometer for larger tires?

You should be ok without a levelling kit and 33's.

I have a 98 12V and Im sorry to say I dont know how to account for the tire size change. Theres 2 options I guess - 1) mechanical - which would involved getting a different speedo gear or 2) electronic - in which case youd have to get the dealer to reprogram for you. Assuming this truck is a 12V.

My 99 has been off by 5mph ever since I got it, so it doesnt really bother me or anything, I was just wonderin if its possible to change the speedo since the truck is all mechanical

there is a company on the internet that will take all your info-trans, rearend, tire size-and can custom cut a speedo gear that will match but it is quite expensive if your only going to be 5-10 off

Yea if its more than a couple hundred bucks its nor really worth it to me