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-   -   adjusting stock fuel plate 12 valve (https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-12v-performance/1627-adjusting-stock-fuel-plate-12-valve.html)

erik s 04-26-2007 10:28 PM

adjusting stock fuel plate 12 valve
 
I tried to adjust the stock fuel plate on my 97 12 valve. The bolts came out easy, i think the previous owner had been in there,and the goofy bolt had already been removed and replaced. I believe the fuel plate is stock because the truck has the same power as all of the other stock dodges i've driven. Anyways i moved the fuel plate forward (toward the front of the truck. Is this right. It didn't seem to give me any more power and no black smoke. Did I do something wrong? also how do you adjust the proportioning screw for the throttle.

Ratsun 04-26-2007 10:45 PM

Yes, that is the right direction. Did you check (with the fuel shutoff solenoid up) that the governor arm is not going under the plate? Did you also slide the the AFC (you removed it to get to the plate) full forward? I am not sure what the proportioning screw for the throttle is that you mention?

erik s 04-26-2007 11:08 PM

What exactly is the AFC, is it the housing that i removed the 4 bolts from. This can slide forward??? What will That do. How do you tell if the governor arm is going under the plate? Every thing works fine in terms of the test drive, however no aditional power was gained. The proportioning screw that i mentioned, i don't know the actual part name, is the adjustment screw that allows for more fuel at a lower boost.
Forgive me, i am new to the diesel world, about 3 weeks, and I am just trying to get familiar with everything.

Benjamin 04-27-2007 05:28 AM

there is an 8mm allen plug on the top of that AFC housing that you took off the truck to get to the fuel plate. take it off and you will see a "star wheel" take a small flathead screwdriver and loosen it up..... the star wheel will rotate towards the engine when loosening...... i had mine all the way loose, and took my fuel plate out and ran like that for a year but i had gauges. if you don't have gauges then i wouldn't do any thing till you get atleast EGT gauge. with my old setup i could peg a 1600* pyro in less than 5 seconds...... now i have my 100 plate i ground, 191 delivery valves, 370 injectors, a 4KGSK (if you don't have one get one but get the 3KGSK... it woke my truck up big time..... but get gauges first since you moved the fuel plate)and the 64/14 HTT turbo and i can, on a long pull, get it to barely creap past 1300* and this is all pre turbo.......


this is my list of things i'd do starting out....
EGT gauge, Boost gauge, and if you have an automatic tranny temp gauge
3KGSK and 4" exhaust
then at this power level if you haven't broke the stock tranny you need to do something about it.... mine kicked the bucket @ 160K it was a good working tranny until i upped the power and beat on it for ~40Kmiles at least get a valve body and a converter. that just depends on how good your internals are and how deep your wallet is.... mine wasn't that deep but the bank's is.... i went with an almost full Billet Goerend Tranny.....
after all that..... add fuel.... add air to clean fuel up.... and repeat.....

oh ya update your signature with what truck you have and what you have done to it.....

erik s 04-27-2007 06:31 AM

so far the truck only has a KN filter along with a boost and pyro gauge. The tranny is the NV4500 5 speed manual, it also has a Gear Vendor splitter which i love. It allows me to run 2000 rpm at 88 mph reaching 26 mpg unloaded and 16 mpg loaded with a 10000 pound trailer.

Ratsun 04-27-2007 09:02 AM


Originally Posted by erik s (Post 17859)
What exactly is the AFC, is it the housing that i removed the 4 bolts from. This can slide forward??? What will That do. How do you tell if the governor arm is going under the plate? Every thing works fine in terms of the test drive, however no aditional power was gained. The proportioning screw that i mentioned, i don't know the actual part name, is the adjustment screw that allows for more fuel at a lower boost.
Forgive me, i am new to the diesel world, about 3 weeks, and I am just trying to get familiar with everything.

Yes the AFC is the thing you took off to move the plate. With the 4 screws/bolt that hold it down loose you slide it forward prior to tightening it. With the AFC off and the shut off solenoid up you pull the throttle linkage to WOT and watch the arm contact the plate (you dont want it to slide under).
Benjamin gave some good advice about the pyro as these adjustments on a 215 pump WILL give you enough fuel that you could do some damage if not watched.

erik s 04-27-2007 02:29 PM

Thanks for the clarification. I loosened the bolts and slid it forward. Still it did't seem to give it any power increase and the EGT hasn't crept up at all.
Also, although my truck is a 97 and has a manual tranny, it is a california truck so i believe it has the 180 pump. IS there anything else i can do to make easy power?

Would an aftermarket plate work better and if so which one would work best with this model truck. Who carries a good plate for a decent price.

Johnny Cetane 04-27-2007 02:57 PM

an aftermarket plate would def give u more power than ur stocker. or u can grind ur stocker down if u wish.

here's a couple links to companies that sell new plates...

TST

PDR

bow2no1 04-27-2007 03:14 PM

i got my #10 from ebay for $100 works great!

cumminspower94 01-13-2010 06:21 PM

hey man where did you find that splitter thing for your tranny


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