Fng needs 5.9 build list help
 

Hey guys I'm sure it's been covered a million times I'm just trying to find some direction. I got a 97 auto 4x4 and trying to do a mild build on the motor, the current power level isn't very impressive I belive it's the 185hp so I'd like to get up around 250 ish. Nothing extreme I want it to haul my jeeps and camper around. I do know my way around a tool box I've built a few jeeps, diesels are new to me. So far all I've done is had the trans rebuilt, 4" muffler back exhaust, and a used high-flow conical filter from my dad's scrap bin. I plan on getting a set of gages some time soon also for the egt trans temp and maybe boost.

Fuel plate, gov springs, get your timing set properly, BD Super B turbo. Get your TV cable reset after your gov springs as it'll be set to full throttle shift way to low to get around the pump pulling fuel back to early and the gov springs fix that by giving you a few more RPM. Definitely Pyro Boost and trans. You will see a plugged fuel filter or other problem on the boost gauge long before you feel it elsewhere.

What size fuel plate would be best I seen some say #6 others #10 a few say zero for max power? Also I'm guessing 3000 gov springs should do for a mild build huh?

250 hp? if that's it you can do that for free in about 30 min at your house.
ide buy a $5 boost elbow however, yank the fuel plate and be done if that's all you want. at that power level there is no reason for fancy gauges or a new turbo. a stock turbo will work much better than any aftermarket at stock power levels. if you want a few more rpms which you will put some 3 or 4k govoner springs in the pump. no need to re invent the wheel or take a loan out for this kinda build. on stock injectors ive dyno ed almost 350hp and just shy of 800tq. on stock timing.

I ordered a #6 fuel plate and 3k gov springs from eBay figure the 100$ for both should open her up some. With the gov springs and fuel plate do I have to re time it or adjust the idle?

The pump has no key and they slip over time, also they were timed from the factory using the plastic timing pin in the adjustable housing, mine on my 97 was out almost 2 degrees before the slop in the plastic pin put it out further, also they were timed fairly late right from the factory. Make sure your shop knows how to use the positive stop method or other to find true TDC before setting the timing.

A boost elbow will drive your boost higher but putting the factory turbo out of spec like that makes a lot of hot air, A turbo after all and compressing air makes heat so might as well use the most efficient compressor you can.