NV-4500 rebuild
 

How hard is it to rebuild and roughly how much in parts?

well for a full rebuild kit including everything except hard parts on mine it was 550 (that included an updated mainshaft).
then the 5th gear clutch and large gear were gone, those were 220.
then the countershaft got a chunk taken out of a bearing collar. new one was 215 plus some freight.

So it can add up.

I wouldn't be putting the stock clutch back in it. I'm waiting on my flywheel to get machined and then I'm swapping that out, got the clutch waiting. while you're in there, do the rear main seal. mine sure needed it. almost any higherish mileage unit will.

I do have a GearVendor overdrive that I want to get rid of. Anyone interested?

How much u asking for it and what did I have it on?

So you're the one who took Dougs attention from me?
:P

I was PMing him about it, but he suddenly just. . .stopped. Which is a shame.

No slim u asked first

heheh sorry man, I didn't mean to imply anything. I just got your days on and off that you messaged me a while back all mixed up. I thought maybe someone snuck in under me (wouldn't be the first time, I know money talks).
We'll get this worked out.

Did ya get the rebuild done in what time you had?

It's all good, no I didn't even start yet. Bought there manual for rebuilding. Should be straight forward I hope

it is pretty good. if it was quad 4x4s manual then it's available complete online.

Started my rebuild, installed bottom gear cluster and with no shims end play is .0027. Seems like the race is just floating around. Don't seem right, is this ok?

I meant .027, spec in book calls for .0002 to .0006. doesn't seem right to me. Can some help me out?

alrighty, so, you measured the end play with the bot-on cap installed and torqued on correctly (without sealant or locktite on the bolts of course), and it was .27"?

in that case, you need to add shims to the bearing race. your rebuild kit should have come with a selection of shims, which are placed on the bearing race, and then the endcap is bolted on, which presses the shims against the race, forcing the race against the bearing. tightly.

if you have .27" endplay with proper installation, you need more shimming.

Side note: I made mine pretty tight. .001". as low as my dial indicator would read. you have new bearings, new fluid, and likely new shafts (I had 3 new shafts. my whole guts are new). You'll be dropping the fluid at your next oil change anyway, since it'll be full of wear-in shavings from. . . everything. I'd set em tight. they'll wear in. if you get the chance, I'd check the clearances when you drop the fluid to change it after a few thousand miles. they'll likely need to be adjusted again. It's kinda like a motorcycle chain. they wear in very quickly initially, and then are good for a long while.

Got both shafts around .003. Thanks

Glad to hear it man! I know it's expensive, but make sure to get GL-4 gear lube, at least. GL-5 is corrosive to brass parts. like your synchros.

Castrol Syntorq is the "proper" stuff, but it's very expensive and difficult to find now.

Ended up using the chrysler fluid, $25 a quart. Shifts great and seems smooth.

the Chrysler fluid is syntorq, just with a Chrysler part number. Chevy sells it too, and I think it's cheaper through Chevy. :D

Glad she's working good. I really gotta get the GL-5 outta mine that I threw in for the first few thousand km of wear-in, before it completely eats my synchros off.

I'll get on finding out about those driveshafts tomorrow. Been a busy start to the week, and a very poor one at that. By the by, you should only need your rear one worked on, the front should not be bothered by the Gearvendor.