Nah... I'm just going to run this one until catastrophic failure and put a built one in.
Grenading this tranny is the excuse I'm waiting for. Don't get me wrong, I don't beat my truck and I'm not trying to blow it up, but I don't give a crap if this tranny goes. I'm a stick guy too, but it sucks pushing snow.

I am most interested in fuel economy. I am assuming that smoke=unburnt fuel=bad fuel economy.
Is there anything we can do with these 12Valves to reduce the hazing/smoking? I assume timing may have something to do with this.. It seems I start smoking above 1800RPM, worse the higher the revs.
2200RPM=~19PSI, ~1100deg, and visible smoke.
This is with a stock fuel plate and system. Only modification is the boost line is capped.

Thoughts?

Unfortunately I already had my intake and exhaust when I got my gauges put in, so I'm not sure how big a difference they made in my EGTs, but that sounds off. Until I moved my fuel plate I never got my pyro over 1000°. With it slid all the way forward I can just now hit 1100°, and the difference in power was so dramatic that I can't believe you're getting that hot with the stock fuel setting. Could just be truck to truck differences though, or even gauge to gauge.

Regardless, from what I hear, bumping the injector timing makes a big difference in MPG. I picked up at least 2 MPG when I slid my fuel plate forward, and finally started driving normal again (couldn't keep my foot out of it for a little while, or the stupid grin off my face). I'm hoping to tab my KDP and bump the timing in the next week or so, can't wait to see how it does then. I still haven't moved my AFC housing or done any significant playing with the starwheel or smoke screw, but it's not really smoking unless I stand on it, and even then not enough to see in my mirror so I haven't worried about it.

take fuel away up top or put a bigger charger on it and take fuel away down low.

Normal EGT's are only max 1000deg, but with a prolonged pull up a hill @~1500RPM @~12PSI will see 1100deg.

I have been suspicious of a leaking injector, but I took a infrared thermometer to the exhaust ports and they all seem to be pretty consistent temperature-wise. The front cylinder seems to run ~50deg cooler, but that may be error in measurement because of less exhaust gas flow. Thoughts?
Externally the fuel system is very clean, no leaks, etc.
What are normal idle EGT's? I am seeing 350-400 depending on weather, if I put the trans in neutral and idle for awhile I can see 300deg.

Can a dirty/clogged fuel filter hurt MPGs? If so/how?

*Edit* 6 months ago I did a ~4000mile trip and averaged (hand calculated) 21.6MPG. Normal around-town-freeway mix was ~19.5-20mpg. Recently I have been seeing 17-18. I know it is winter fuel, but I live in SoCal, so the "cold" is not too extreme, rarely below 40degF when I am driving.

Those idle EGTs sound identical to mine. Before moving my plate, I noticed my performance go down as my fuel filter neared the end of it's time under the hood, and jump back with a fresh filter. While I haven't necessarily noticed the same thing with economy- at least not to the extent of 3 MPG- I can logic out that it could do the same thing. Starving these things for fuel certainly doesn't make the mileage go up, but fueling the hell out of them for some reason does. Reverse process would suggest that a restrictive fuel filter sure wouldn't help things.

Concurrently, I change my fuel filter every 5,000 miles, and I notice a difference. I've never talked to anyone else who does it that often, most people do it annually at the most. If mine is dirty enough after 5K for me to feel a difference changing it, how much more difference would 10K, 15K, 20K make? Probably enough to start affecting the MPG I'd think. Just postulating here, any guess from me about this stuff is barely educated at the most.

I'm going to guess you have a 215 engine while he has a 180. It would cause the difference in boost.

A '98 automatic? I'm not positive, but for some reason I thought I have the 180.

Ok you have the 180 then. Hmmmm. Prior to IP mods with only exhaust and air filter I could only hit 23 or so psi, but that was with stock wastegate settings.

Could be my mechanical Autometer boost gauge isn't accurate. I've been meaning to replace it with an ISSPRO to match the others when I'm a little more flush, then I'd see if there's a discrepancy. Doesn't look to be coming to the priority front anytime soon though.