6 blade, 7 blade, or 8 blade??
 

I've decided I'm gonna spend the $275 on the 60mm compressor housing for my hx35, but I don't know what wheel I should get... 6, 7, or 8 blade?

you need the 40 center section, or your have to have yours lathed out.


also... 6 blade. Your spending about twice what you should on a housing btw...

Its Gillett diesels upgrade, according to them it'll go right on but don't know much about it

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HX Upgrade Compressor Housing & Wheel (60mm, 8 blade)

That's the part... whatcha think?

Ah. I see. That should not be an actual 40 then. Just an upgraded 60mm compressor. Since you still have to have it balanced... I wouldn't evenconaider for the money

I thought the compressor wheel was zero balanced itself? I put Gillett's 60mm 6-blade on my H1C on my 1st Gen and just put it on; no balancing it, and the compressor appeared to have balance notches machined into it already hence the zero assumption... :humm:

anything spinning at 80,000 rpms needs to be balanced... lol

what is this supposed yo do for you I have a hx35 on my 93 and it is pullin 37 psi. does it spool faster or give you more boost

most boost at about the same spool.


I would not bother. You can buy a full super40/35 for about the same price.

I cannot disagree with that; it's basic physics. However, not being a turbine specialist, I'm merly questioning what balancing a turbo truly entails. Everything being concentric, I would assume, in theory, that a zero balance of each individual component would net you pretty close to an overall zero balance, assuming true concentricity of the shaft to impeller mounting bosses. I wouldn't assume that a turbine manufacturer would have compensating balance marks across the midsection (relieving the compressor to compensate the turbine imbalance for example) which would create a weird moment of inertia, but I could very well be wrong. Granted, I was new and ignorant to turbo philosophy when I did my 60mm upgrade (I just wanted smoke and cheap power at that time :argh:), but I've thrashed it pretty hard and haven't had an issue with it...yet :w2:

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I would really like to see a genuine, quality Super 40/35 for the price of the 60mm upgrade. I would like to have seen it even more back when I did mine because I would have been much more comfortable with a complete 40/35 rather than the 60 H1C...and I probably wouldn't have gone with the PhatShaft 62 I have now :argh:

BAEturbo. complete turbo minus exhaust housing, $495. Bob builds and balances them there. He just does not use Holset housings... he has his own casted. Saves on price where you dont need to spend.

Wouldn't the 60mm compressor be similar to a 35/40 anyhow? I'm not looking to break a dyno... just push a little more air

might be.... the major diameter matters a lot as well...

But why spend $300, and send it to be balanced (if you plan to have it balanced)... when you can spend $495 on a ready built correct one.

You got a link for them?

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Scratch that I found them.. my question now is should I go hx40 or he351??

I bought the gillet diesel upgrade for my truck. 97' 12 valve. I had to use a die grinder and carefully hog out the compressor backing plate to fit the new wheel. The housing fits right on and the wheel was already balanced so i just put it on. Don't get me wrong, maybe i just got lucky? I know i'm pushing it, but it can make 45psi, and it helped cool my egt's alot. It spools quick and i'm happy. 50k trouble free km's on it now...

he351cw hands down. much better all around turbo, spools faster moves the same amount of air. will choke up faster than a hx40. a hx40 comes with a 16cm housing and a 65mm turbine where as a 351 is a 9cm housing and a 60mm turbine. hx40's are dogs

We are talking about hybrid 40s not straight 40. And they actually came in 18 and 20.cm. never 16.

you are very very mistaken lots of them come with 16cm housings. ok so a hybrid being a 60/58/12 is going to perform very similiar to a he351 but with much higher risk of shaft failer. find i nice he for $350 and be done

ive decided on going with an he351... what all do i need to do this swap? im planning on getting a 3pc manifold, will I need a special one or a different downpipe or anything like that?