Hunting for gears 1-2 at low speeds?
 

Just picked up my 2004.5 yesterday... Test drove it 3 different times and shifted good. Well today I discovered a 1-2 hunting shift a couple times at low speeds. I read that there was a tsb on it, will they still fix it?

I also noticed that when coming to a stop, it slams into 1st...

The guy said he had the tranny redone and had a shift kit put in it. I'm not sure of when and all of the details on the rebuild I'm trying to figure that out...

Thanks guys!!!
All and all I love the truck better than my 04 psd

There is a solenoid that needs replaced in the transmission (installed in the valve body), along with a reflash of the PCM.

Will the dodge dealer do this bc of the TSB? And does that cause the hard slam into 1st coming to a stop?

Also I noticed a couple oil leaks... Looks like the pan gasket, and the front timing cover... Would I have to pull the motor to replace the pan gasket? I know you can do the front cover with it in, just wasn't sure about the pan gasket...

Thanks for the help!
I learned so much about my PSD, so now I got to learn about my CTD

Check your oil pan bolts for torque. Mine were coming loose and it appeared my front crank seal and rear main were out. Going in a circle (torque one bolt then go straight across to the other side), torque those bolts to 21 ft/lbs.

I'll check the pan bolts... It seems like there is more on the passenger side front and directly on the front of the pan. Could it be the timing case? It's leaking pretty good I got like a couple 1" puddles from last night...

I think I bought a pos! Seems like I'm making oil, so I'm guessing I got a bad injector? I'm changing the oil tommorrow to see how much is in there...

Were should your oil pressure be at on the dummy gauge at idle? While warmed up at idle I'm around the 20 mark a little over... Driving it's around the 40 or a little over... It never goes below the 20 mark...

It always seems that all the problems show up the day after you buy it!!!

Oil pressure is good.

However, you do have an injector sticking open (why the oil level rises). That's because the previous owner never ran an injector lube w/ the fuel.

Now should I run 2cycle? I hear everyone saying that...

How would I go about testing the injectors? I know sometimes you can take the valve cover off and you will see it spraying, but I think that's only if the body is cracked? ( which would be the best case senerio, bc I think you can replace the body?)

How much am I looking at for a set of injectors?

Update: degreased and pressure washed the underneath, and retorqed the oil pan, and drove it around for a little. Rechecked and so far it looks like the oil pan was leaking.

Looks like I got a leak by the rear bottom bolt of the ac compressor...

Thanks alot wildbill for all your help!

The leak by the A/C compressor, probably the coolant hose near by the turbo (be a foil wrapped hose). All you need to do is tighten the clamps.

Brand new set of injectors $2100, connecting tubes $240, fuel rail $300 and comes with a new sensor and PRV (because the relief valve is likely shot), and FCA $110 (fuel control actuator). Looking at $3000 and that's if you do the labor yourself. On top of that, your valves are going to need adjusted.

Awesome!!! Well looks like i got to save up for some injectors...

What's the test procedure for the injectors? Or do I have to have them flow tested?

Injector kill test will tell you how many are over fueling, bench test will tell you how much. They can also check the injector return rate (if your experiencing long crank times). Rates vary from $25 to $40 per injector.

I had two that failed the kill test, so I had them bench tested. Return rates were spot on, but they were over fueling. 45-50 is spec, they were both at 54.5