Ohm Tested My Injectors
 

I got the following readings, meter set on 2k:

#1: 1.5
#2: 0.6
#3: 0.6
#4: 0.5
#5: 0.5
#6: 0.5

So it looks like #1 is the bad guy?

Yep that looks like the issue, all the rest look good

what kind of test did they perform?? What do these numbers mean? Did they do it in truck or on bench?

Did it myself (saved 2 hours @ $75 an hour). This checks to see if the solenoid is up to par. More or less, the higher the number, the more shorted out the solenoid is (causes it to hang the metering needle longer, hence it over fuels the combustion chamber).

Look on the bright side: at least #1 is easier to change! :tu:

It could've been number 4, that way I don't need to remove the intake horn. Oh well, at least it wasn't faulty mechanically.

how did you do the test, I need to do mine, did you have the switch on? Can you give a short detail of the test. Thanks

Some do it with the gasket on (checks the injector and the gasket at the same time). If the ohm meter reads high on one injector, then check the injector at the solenoid itself.

There are 6 bolts to remove the valve cover (10mm flex head gear wrench), flat screwdriver to assist in disconnecting the 2 injector harness plugs, and an 8mm socket (1/4 in drive) to remove the 12 gasket connections at the solenoids.

ooooohhhhhh that makes sense... OHM like ohms...not o.h.m like i thought u were meaning. So how did you make the connection? Where the 2 leads are on the solenoid? Ive never seen one of these injectors in person so im having trouble picturing this test

There are two wires held down by nuts on each injector...make your connection there. Its obvious once you pull the valve cover, they are easy to get at.

BTW, my meter was set at 200 not 2k.

I tried this on mine a few years ago...some meters don't even have a low enough scale to be of use.

Remand injector tested out @ 0.6
I'll get to see in an hour if it was the problem (pretty sure it was).

I got on it as hard as I did before, this time the EGT pegged out @ 1100 (imagine still got a little carbon to burn out). Before it pegged out at 1300 (ouch). Throttle response is better to.

Well F me to tears, that wasn't the injector that was giving me issues. I'm happy as a pig in crap I'm going back to work. Looks like a whole set (brand new) injectors are planned out. For crying out fricken loud!!! :argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh:

OK, now it's time for the autopsy... :humm:

How many mile on that set?

What type filtration installed?

What fuel add used, if any?

Almost 50,000, Fleetguard 7 micron, and I'm religious about Stanadynes purple bottle. I got really ugly with the stuff after I ran my truck out of fuel 3 times (1st was after my stock lift pump died, 2nd was after I installed an aftermarket, it ran out w/ half a tank, 3rd was at a quarter tank). Once it's been started and run for 5 minutes in the morning, it doesn't run rough. Starts real good, no hard starts, no black smoke when I jump on the throttle, no missing, plenty of power. Just when I first start it in the morning, it runs like crap (unless I hold the rpm around 1000). :argh:

They should last alot longer than that. I'd consider adding a 2um filter between the stocker and CP3 and start throwing a quart of 2-stroke into mix every tank as well. Maybe even forget the Stanadyne - doesn't seem to be helping much.

Do that, and I'll bet you get a half million miles out of the next set. :rocking:

My Exact Problem! Injector and pump return flow tests passed. I'll Ohm mine out tomorrow! Going to adjust valve lash at the same time just to rule it out...

Wildbill, did you get this fixed yet?

Any suggestions?

Got the one replaced, started it, still ran a little rough though, but not as bad. Got another one that's going, which one I'm not sure yet.

Just make damn sure your engine and the compartment are really clean. Same goes with any tools your going to use. Have shop towels (not regular paper), some ziplock bags, and a marker. All that in case you have to change one out.