New Pics of the Heater/Collant Filter Bypass
 

I finally got around to re-doing the coolant filter mount and took some pics:




http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_14.JPG
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_15.JPG
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_16.JPG

Never heard of a coolant filter, I heard of the heater core bypass to get the A/C cooler.

Best way to maintain the cooling system, along with regularly scheduled fluid changes. It's really the only way to keep the crud out of it over the long haul.

The extra port tapped out the back of the head also helps with cooling the rear of the engine and reducing water jacket pressure. Ever heard of the "opie" bypass?" This is what I call the "poor man's bypass." It costs alot less than the fancy stuff opie and wicked diesel sells, but along with the filter goes a lot farther towards helping out the engine.

Usually you see coolant filters on big engines, especially on engines with sleeved cylinders that are in direct contact with the coolant. Its definitely a nice addition, but nothing totally necessary. These engines have run over a million miles without a coolant filter, so don't be too worried about not having one.

Yep. And my grandpa lived to be 98, but the last 15 years were kinda scary. :w2:

I like the idea of things like better cooling efficiency and longer lasting water pump seals with clean coolant flowing in the block all the time instead of just the first five minutes after a drain and re-fill. :U:

Oh yeah, I'm with you, just saying its not a mandatory upgrade for most guys. A see a lot of guys get on here and go gung ho because they see mods guys have done to their trucks and think they gotta have it on theres.

Pretty fancy!

You don't need to get as fancy as I did with the heater bypass to install a filter and open up that rear port on the head. The valve and all the fittings for that cost more than the rest of it. You can do just the filter for like $40-50 total and get most of the benefit. All you need is some thin plate metal for the mounting bracket, filter/head, a couple feet of heater hose, a 5/8" tee, a 1/2" barb fitting, a few little bolts and some clamps.

That heater core bypass idea is overblown. I measured the A/C output temp on mine over the same long trip on two different hot days last summer and it never made more than a 3 degree difference.

I hate to bust your bubble but this does not reduce coolant pressure in the head the way you have it. If you want it to reduce coolant presssure you will need to get it out of the back like you did or between number 5 and 6 cylinders and route it thru a relief valve or just straight to the return line like Opie did it. Probally a good way to filter some coolant though.

No bubble problems here. It's coming out the head port between 5&6 and going to the heater return just like the similar setup Cummins sells. I don't know what you're looking at, but you might try having a clue before you think about going around "busting bubbles." :w2: