What next?
 

I've read about alot of performance upgrades and understand they are based on goals so I am looking for some direction on my rig (check signature). I've been but by the horsepower bug and would like to get into the 600-700hp range. With that being said I grind my ass off for my $$ like everyone else. Id like to do transmission upgrades, and added fuel filtration. What order should I start prepping this beast? I have 200k- rebuilt 48re tranny has about 30k on it and I'm noticing it starting to downshift/hunt slightly. Should I switch to EFI live and ditch my EJWA? Any input would be welcomed!

I hope you put a TQ and VB in it! I don't see your sig!?

My fat finger unchecked the sig box- i bought this truck stock so there is no VB or TQ currently.

EFI or Smarty do the tranny work first! CAll Goerend with your questions and they will get you the parts you need! have your credit card ready! Talk to Jeff tell him Andy CA sent you!

This is one thing I'm caught up on. I have a six speed manual and have been asking if should start there, but have heard it can take a programmer. Is this true?

No.... You will need a clutch

Okay after more research I have a basic plan in mind - I'm going to take your advice and call goerends for TC and VB on tranny- motor wise this is where I'm headed- pyro, boost, tranny, rail pressure gauges. Boost fooler, EFI live, and 70hp injectors, turbo is TBD (reading more to find best one for setup- make a suggestion!).

For fuel supply I'm unsure should I go with airdog 150? Or could I do a 3/8 big line kit with a glacier filer and feed it enough fuel? ( I like the idea of airdog filtration but live in Tx so water separation isn't an issue.)

From what I've read this should be in the 500hp ballpark- big part is the EFI tune

Would 70hp nozzles work until I pull the trigger on injectors also:w2:

Nozzles don't fix worn out injectors! look into the fuelab pumps best out there! But a raptor would work fine and they are easy to put in and put your own 2 micron filter inline! Depending if you tow a silver 62 or 64 would be good

that clutch is good to around 500hp

cumminscoalroller24/7 like said before get your tranny built. that is the first thing you should do. next get your AD or fass, AD has had some issues, so i would go with the fass 150. put the fuel pump in before you do injectors or nozzles so the filters will protect the injectors. then head studs are a good ideal and good insurance. you dont wanna do all that work and then blow a head gasket from more boost. then you can get your turbo. to get 800 hp you will need a decent size turbo which is gonna be rather slow spooling. i would just do compounds if i wanted 700-800hp. compounds will spool faster and you will be set up later on down the road if you want more power. after that take your edge out and play golf with it. they run hotter and efi live is the best you can get for a 2006 and newer. you are right on with the gauges. a cheaper way you could is, get an edge cts monitor and that monitors all those thing plus more. then you wont have to give up your handle if you planned on putting the gauges on your pillar.

I have a similar question. I bought my truck to haul livestock but it is also my daily highway driver. I've been slowly upgrading parts as they need replaced and $$ allows. I recently had the injectors go out and decided to upgrade a 100hp set. I know the next couple of items to add to the truck need to be head studs and a compound turbo setup as I have already found I build way too much boost and have high egt's when my right foot gets a little heavy. I backed out of the throttle at 43psi and 1500deg's at about 2300rpm's so I know it wanted to do more.

My question is what else do I need to be concerned with upgrading (after a turbo setup and head studs) when building more boost pressure (50-60 range)?

if you have a stock turbo and you are pushing 43 psi, yes you will get high egts because you are pushing hot air into the engine. with the he351 (stock turbo) you are just pushing hot air when you exceed 35ish psi. also edge runs hot, so first thing i would do is get rid of that and get EFI live. actually first thing you should is get better fuel filtration to help save your injectors and make them last long, then get EFI live.

I forgot to mention I have an AirDog II setup as well on the truck. Changing to EFI and a compound turbo setup what would need to be done to the engine to support higher boost pressures (50-60psi) besides head studs? At what point would you consider changing the piston stroke or valve springs?

stock valve springs are 60 lbs. if you are hitting 60 psi of boost, your DP will be higher then 60 psi, so at what point will the DP float a valve? i have read 72ish psi is when the valve will start to open, but i dont know that for a fact. if you set you wastegate correctly so your DP doesnt get too high, you will be fine with stock springs. i say put the 103# springs in just to be on the safe side, but thats your call. aside from springs and studs, nothing else you need to do. springs and studs arent actually needed. guys have ran that much boost on stock head bolts just fine. i say put in the studs and springs just for insurance.