The WG controller is electric and it will get warm if it shorts out internally, which it sounds like it has. There is bled back port from the compressor side of the turbo to the controller so it is normal to have bypassing with the hose off either the actuator or the turbo housing.

Sounds like the controller has gone bad, easiest thing to do is crimp the boost reference hose closed with a pair of vice grips, that will get you the boost back given everything else is good.

You can replace the controller, or, get a turbo fooler and a boost elbow and do the same thing to get boost back.

I think the solenoid is leaking internally, I think I will get the solenoid elimination kit but in the meantime can I plug off the solenoid hole and hose port. And control boost with de fueling? Say set it at 27 psi or so on my pmt

Justc rimp the boost reference hose with vice grips and set your alarm for 35 psi, should be good there.

ttt

so im going to install the boost fooler with adjustable boost elbow. how do you setup the elbow to open at the right pressure?

Also my bullydog pmt gets all its resources (boost, IAT, coolant temp, load, ect.) from the engines computer. i've heard that the ecu only reads up to 30 psi and thus that is the max that can be displayed, even if actual boost is higher. is there any way to get the computer to see higher than 30 psi or is the only way to get that info is through a real boost gauge?

I wonder because if it cant read higher than 30, would it make it harder to set the boost elbow accurately?

Put the screw and port on the WG actuator side of the boost refernece line and adjust it accordingly. You will find almost bottoming the screw will be close to right with the DP the stock turbo develops.

The stock MAP sensor will read to about 45 psi, the internal tables used to control fueling and codes only go to about 32 psi. Using a boost fooler and reading boost thru the OBD port you will ikely only see 29 psi max. If you want gauges that mean something you need to add mechaincals separate from the the data bus. The ECU messes with the signals so it isn't always accurate.