Nothing new to report. My new multimeter still has yet to arrive - man I love Lordco...

The truck seems to be holding a charge ok these days but I'm driving it every day so it is a bit tough to tell. I do know that the comp doesn't come on right away but if I crank the key on and key off at least 2 times then it comes on and works as it should.

There remains an electrical problem that I will eventually trace and solve but right now it is ok.

For future reference...

Here is the erro code listing from the FSM from Dodge...
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002%2...or%20Codes.pdf

Thanks for the link. I have all that info in my shop but I'm sure others do not so cheers.

well guys, more to report:

the truck sat for 1 week and it was so dead the blasted interior lights didn't even come on. Something is draining that battery for sure. I've currently got both batteries which are less than 14 months old doing a trickle charge to see if they will come back. I'm sitting at about 8A on the gauge right now.

I've done the test lamp test where you pull out the fuses and check to see if the light goes out. It never missed a beat. So, unless I did that wrong (I did just one battery and had the neg. cable connected). I don't know guys - I'm stumped.

I'll do the IOD test and check the cables as well but when there is a charge it starts fine.

What am I missing?

It all sounds exactly like my problems I fought with for the last 3 winters. Only went dead when it was cold out and had sat for at least 3 days. I got rid of my dual terminal batteries and replaced the cables and now it fires up without a flaw even after sittin for a week or more. I can't even count how many times I had the batteries tested and they always checked out as good at several different shops . When I went back and told Auto Zone I was done fightin, they made em not check out so I could get new ones under warranty.

Good luck on it.

Thats a New one on me! I'm glad you said that , I might use that one day!

If thats not the issue, I'd be pretty stumped! Piece by piece wiring is not my fancy....I dont have 40 hours of paitence....

these batts only have single set of posts per unit. that said, my next thing is cables i guess.

Bad Grounds can do alot of crazy things , Ive fixed alot of Strange issues by adding additional Grounds

Frame to Engine
Engine to Battery
Battery to Frame

Sounds Stupid But I have really fixed about 5 trucks Not all CTD's by doing this , Only takes about 30 mins to do

To see if it may help you , Run a set oif battery cables from your Neg battery Terminals One to Frame (Clean Spot) and One to The Engine (The Cherry Picker Hook By #6 Cly is a great place)

Got my Brothers 12V home with this set up :)

DM

How many grounds are there? I think I've already done this but I want to make sure.

Thanks

D.

Load test both batteries.

Honestly, it sounds like an alternator internal failure where you are getting voltage leakage. Just a hunch.

With a good meter, you should be able to see the draw and disconnect one cirut at a time till you figure it out.

What about silly stiff? Failed cigarette lighter? Bad bulb? Ect, ect.

Dave