Lift Pump Dead at 71k Replacement vs In Tank Pump
 

So i just picked up my 01 on saturday, drove it 120 miles and on my way back home it completely died at 65mph, no warning, just shut down. After waiting alongside of interstate for 2 hrs (130 miles from home) the guy from the car lot i bought it from picked me up and towed it back to his shop. He agreed to pay for the fix but is looking at replacing with the in tank conversion. What should i do? I know doing a FASS or airdog Lift pump would probably be the smartest but how long will the in tank pump get me and will it benefit me any in the future by having it?

i've seen allmost as many of the in tank pumps go bad as the ones on the block, my advise is to spend the extra and get a good pump and be done, it could save your ip

that's what im thinking, i may just have it towed home (its at his lot 75 miles away) and either do the pump myself or take it to the local diesel shop and have him pay me what he was going to put in it to add the in tank pump.

When reading post 1, I was thinking exactly what you said in post 3. Try and get him to pay you the cost of him replacing it, and do it yourself. I bet the cost won't be much different in the end. It's a fairly simple job to do, and if you have a few buddies, it can be very easy.

i guess the next question, which has probably been answered a million times on here, is what pump do i want? im not looking to go extreme. its completely stock right now, looking to do intake, exhaust, and probably Edge JwA, maybe stack a smarty with it but not go extreme on the programming. Especially not until the tranny gets some attention. (i know, dont add timing with the smarty)

I like to "do it once, do it right". I chose a 150 series pump from FASS. That way I will have all the fuel any VP44 can use. I also like the idea of 2 more filters, keeping the fuel flow to the injection pump plentiful, and super clean.

The real question is was the lp already dead and now it finally took out the injection pump? :humm:

I guess he had a guy from the local Dodge dealership stop by to troubleshoot the issue and he said the injector pump was still good. I really dont know what to think. my first thought was that the injector pump failed bc there was no lack of power/performance before it cut out. I guess i will have to replace the lift pump and wait and see. Definately not the way i wanted to enter the world of cummins ownership.

Lift Pump Dead at 71k Replacement vs In Tank Pump
 

Keep in mind the airdog 100 doesn't require you to drop the tank, and will be plenty to support the mods you said you're going to add eventually. I have the airdog 100 with my mods and a Vulcan draw straw and the lowest FP I've ever seen was 13. Idles 17

do you have to drop the tank for the straw? and is that the dual filter 100 or the raptor with no filters?

yes you do and with the 100 you'll get filters. but the stock pickup with a 100 is just fine and works great. it will have plenty of fuel for what your after

well i will be making phone calls in the morning to get my truck to my garage and see who can get me the 100 the fastest.

Only reason to put a draw straw in is if you have an it tank pump, or going over a 100 size pump.


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Do not let them put an in tank pump in the truck as when you decide to change to a fass or similar pump you will have to drop the tank to put a draw straw in. I would go with a fass 95 with filters I ran one on my 01 made 575 before I went to a 150 only because I got another vp truck that needed a fass. I think the 95 will keep up with just about anything a vp will make. There is no reason to put a draw straw in when doing the pump I made my power running through the stock pick up (683hp that is running a 150 series pump).

Lift Pump Dead at 71k Replacement vs In Tank Pump
 

Just to clarify, the 100 kit doesn't require you to drop the tank unless you have the in tank pump. The 100 kit comes with the quick connect fittings that snap right onto the stock pickup on the top of the fuel tank. That's all the pump you're going to need. And yes, it looks exactly like the 150 with both the water separator and fuel filter canisters. The only reason I had to put a draw straw in was because my sending unit had a leak somewhere and I was losing prime. Good luck!

Re: Lift Pump Dead at 71k Replacement vs In Tank Pump
 

I would get either a Raptor or Airdog.

Luke

Thanks for the help. I ordered an Airdog 100gph and it will be there tomorrow for install. Hopefully i will have my truck by thursday night.:tu: After the dealer pays me for what he was going to have in the in tank replacement i'll have $60 in the new airdog, installed.

You are lucky i bought my truck drove it a month and the in tank pump failed and smoked the Injection pump. So i put a Airdog 100 and a new injection pump in and now i am going to put in a vulcan new style draw straw. $1600 in parts latter

Lift Pump Dead at 71k Replacement vs In Tank Pump
 

Sounds about right

its ur lift pump trust me same thing happened to me with the crappy fass ddrp put on an airdog 165 never looked back .... literally my truck died going sixty just like urs it was bs!:moon:

ok so a week later, had the new airdog 100 installed, truck test drove fine everything checked out, fuel pressure is good, injector pump is good. But, truck died again at 1/4 tank of fuel, doing same thing it did the first time. Are there any issues with the stock fuel pickup at 1/4 tank and under? having truck towed to my house/garage. where do i start?

Are you sure the gauge is reading accurately?

i havent seen the truck yet. Diesel guy from the dodge dealership did the work and said the pressure was good at the fuel railand after lift pump. i dont have any installed on the truck yet.

Sorry, I should have said fuel level sensor. The fuel level gauge is what I am referring to.

i'm not sure, it shut down on me before i had a chance to put any fuel in it. I might start there when i get it back. after it shuts down due to a lack of fuel, how do you prime the injector pump?

Crack the fuel supply fitting to the VP44.
Turn key to the run position, then just bump the starter with the key. Return the key to the run position.
The pump will run for approximately 20 seconds. Repeat if necessary until pure fuel is coming out of the fitting you cracked, then tighten fitting.
Do this one more time to force fuel into the VP44, and out the return line.

thanks, he did say that when the mechanic came over he had the truck running in about 5 mins by doing this, im hoping the fuel guage is just out of wack and this works. How can the gauge be adjusted?

I've yet to see one adjusted or repaired. It's a replace item. If I were to replace it, this is what I would go with:
Modified liberty fuel module