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-   -   New whistle (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/69279-new-whistle.html)

dieselartist 01-31-2011 08:56 AM

New whistle
 
My pickup has developed a new whistle, and it's definitely not the turbo...or it could be a second whistle on the turbo...stranger things have happened...

I only notice the high-pitched whistle after I let the engine warm up to 50* and I start driving - I don't notice it when she's idling. Then it disappears after 5-10 seconds of driving. I'm taking it in to have it checked out, although I didn't hear it this morning. Could it be some sort of vacuum leak? She's still running like normal, so I know I didn't lose the intake manifold boot again ;)

Any ideas I can fire at the mechanic would be awesome (long story short, my pickup's being serviced at a Ford dealership and all they know about my engine is what I've told them!).

arobertson 01-31-2011 09:04 AM

i have the same truck 2000 sport 2500 and i know the whistle you are talking about. mine still does it but i was told that it is the check valve in the tranny (auto) that is leaking the oil back out so when you start it and put it in gear it makes noise wial it filling up the lines. only for a few seconds tho. idk if thats what it is but i had a cummins mechanic tell me that. let me know if yo figure it out so i can fix it to:tu:

dieselartist 01-31-2011 09:12 AM

Hmm...how about on a manual transmission?? It just started doing this last week...more things to ponder LOL

arobertson 01-31-2011 09:16 AM

idk lol. mine has done it for yrs and i ant figured it out. hasnt broke yet so i ant fixed it lol

DieselWeasel 01-31-2011 04:20 PM

It may be this... My truck does this too...

Its a TSB

Date: : Jul. 16,1999

Models: 1998 - 1999 (BR/BE) Ram Truck

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A CUMMINS 5.9L - 24V DIESEL ENGINE BUILT PRIOR TO ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER (ESN) 56587424. THE ESN IS LOCATED ON THE ENGINE DATA PLATE WHICH IS LOCATED ON THE FRONT LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE, AFFIXED TO THE GEAR HOUSING.

Discussion:

This bulletin involves replacement of the engine heater coolant supply hose connector.

symptoms:

A noise may be present which on initial investigation may sound like a noisy turbocharger bearing. The sound of the noise may be described as a whistle, a squeal, a howl, a moan, or a gurgle. The noise will be more noticeable as engine temperature increases. The noise will most often occur when the warm engine is operated between 1,500 and 2,200 engine rpm's. The noise is usually heard in the cab, louder on the passenger side or seems to come from the dash vents.

The noise may be caused by the coolant supply hose connector. The connector is located on the cylinder head next to the turbocharger. The connector is used to supply coolant to the heater hose.

Diagnosis:

1). Set the parking brake. Place the transmission in the park or neutral position.

2). Start engine and achieve operating temperature until the thermostat is open.

3). Increase the engine speed until the noise is heard (1,500 to 2,200 rpm). You may need to sit inside the vehicle the hear the noise.

4). With the noise present, clamp off the heater hose to prevent coolant from flowing through the connector.

5). If the noise in no longer present, then perform the Repair Procedure.

6). Stop the engine. Make certain the cooling system has cooled sufficiently to allow repair.

Parts:

1 05011901AC Connector, Hose
AR (1) 04267020AB Antifreeze/Coolant

Repair:

1. Stop the engine. Make certain the cooling system has cooled sufficiently to allow this repair.

NOTE: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.

2. Remove any cooling system pressure.

NOTE: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRESSURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE CAP FROM THE FILLER NECK.

3. With a large clean container, drain sufficient coolant from the cooling system to prevent coolant loss when removing the heater hose. The heater hose may be clamped off to prevent further coolant loss.

4. Remove the heater hose clamp and heater hose from the connector. Replace the connector (p/n 05011901 AC). Tighten the connector to 42 NM (31 ft. lbs.).

5. Install the heater hose and hose clamp onto the connector.

6. Add engine coolant that was previously drained from the engine.

7. Start the engine. Add additional coolant as required.

Notes:

POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

TIME ALLOWANCE.
Labor Operation No: 24-46-10-97 .................................................. .............. 0.4 Hrs.

FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part


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