It's Broke AGAIN
 

ok driving back home from an inteview (30miles each way)
and wound brakes felt a bit soft.i figured it ws no big deal as the was raining and might have to do with something like that

well ont eh way home my abs and brake light came on..

wtf

ive reaplced every brake component there is, ive replaced all electronics there are..

i dont even know where to start..:help:

any chance during this rain you were doing any burnouts, wheel peeling etc. if you take off and keep spinning your wheels FAST in the rain it will trip a sensor that will go away on its own

mobs...maybe check the wheel speed sensor mounted up by the drivers side battery.......its the module for that anyway

^^^ i agree. if it's doing it only in the rain then start checking connections. especially any connection affected by tire splash. pull 'em apart and look for the greenies. clean 'em up and put a dab of dielectric grease.

how'd the interview go?????

Hows the speed sensor make the brakes feel "squishy"?

Dave, are you sure you got all the air out?? I was working on bleeding mine last night...what a major PITA...

intresting...... master cylinder was bone dry... i followed all the brake lines.. no leaks. followed the hydroboost lines. no leaks.. no leaks on calipers or cylinders..wtf only thing i can think of is powersteering/vac pump leak.. powersteering ran low so it sucked it from m/c?

i didn't see that part. guess the flashing lights caught my eye.

you can't see any fluid leaks mobs? do the hydroboost master cylinders have a seal in back of them to hold fluid in? mine has vacuum booster so i don't know. but... the rear seal on my master started leaking and all the brake fluid was going into the booster. maybe you have the same problem.

did u pull ur rear wheels and look at the wheel cylinders?

no i didnt pull the wheels normally if you have a substancial leak, itll drip down on the inside of the tire from the bottom of the drum., i cannot see any leaks.. i followed all brake lines and such.

true. how often do you check ur brake fluid? maybe it's been leaking a bit longer than you think.

back of the master cylinder is the only thing i can think of then. like i said, i've seen the regular vacuum boosted master cylinders leak there.

Hmmm....sounds famiiar...

and the synopsis was?


i normally check all fluids when i fuel up... so maby 2-3 weeks?

No synopsis....I meant that I already told ya in a PM to check your master cylinder...

and i did..lol. i fueld up yesterday.. so im guessing i lost it all overnight?

are you ever gonna drive the thing without breaking it?

Ill answer that....NO


Next question....

crap dude i cant win with this truck.. luckily i worked at an autoparts store most of its life..
2 starters, 2 batteries, 1 alternator, new hoses,belts, brake calipers, pads, axleshaft ujoints, driveshaft ujoints, rear shoes,hardware wheelcylinders, one axle seal, headlight switch,ignition switch, multifunction switch, shocks, tires, both hubs, key and tumbler, ecm, torque converter, flexplate, and a partridge and a pear tree.

and now this.
plus it has a lift pump that sometimes works, it has another blown ujoint, the transmission leaks, the powersteering pump/vacum pump leak...it has a bad connection on the parking light fuse inside the fusebox that i need to take the damn dash apart to get too..etc

in other words.. i qoute doc evil on this NO

by the time im done with this truck itll be a 2nd gen with 120k on teh ticker but 2000 on all the parts

Man, i hate to hear horror stories like this. I feel for ya, a truck like that can sour you on a brand real quick. Ive had nothing but good luck w/all 5 ctds i have ever owned, you sure are having some crazy bad luck man.

i say get a Dmax

why so i can replace all teh injectors :P

fine get a PSD

He'll still need new injectors....
I say sell it and buy a different one.

buying a ford or dmax wont fix anything. The 7.3s were good motors and the dmaxs are too, but they are so expensive to work on, and they are simply not as stoutly built as a 5.9. Look at how much hp you can get w/o getting into the motor except maybe head studs if you're pushin a ton of boost. People can claim what they want, but when is the last time you heard of a Cummins motor blowing up that had good oil and antifreeze in it that wasnt heavily modified? I personally know a guy w/a '90 dually w/1.1million miles on the clock, never been into engine. Starts perfect on a cold morning, unlike the 6.0s. Dmaxs are a damn good motor, better than powerstrokes. But, for my money ill go w/the one proven to be much more reliable than any other. For some, powerstrokes or dmaxs may be the best way to go, most people dont need a truck thatll go a million miles, they'll trade it in long before that. But, i cant afford a low mileage truck, and if im buying high mileage, i know which way im going.

Id reblead them really good and run it for a day check the level at lunch time and then when you get home at night.

Quit your complaining! :pc:

I've blown up the bottom end of my motor, 2 trannies, the turbo, and the front axle. Not to mention one track bar falling out, 2 stretched throttle cables, a rebuilt cab from the wreck, cruise control cable, drivers side yoke, a sped sensor, 2 TPS's, and the trans. temp. sender.

Thats just the stuff that ISN'T suppose to break for the majority of the vehicle life. Ya cain't count the stuff that just fails under normal use; starters, batteries, altenators, u-joints, brakes, calipers, etc. An excessive failure maybe like multipule starters but everything wears out eventually.

I used 2 batteries every 2 years, 2 different trucks, finally bit the bullet and put in gelcell NXDT34 Orbital units. So far two years later they are good as gold, so now the test begins. Pro side is they are nearly immune to vibration and can be mounted upside down if that suits your fancy (no liquid). Con side they are about $100 each! They crank like a pro, and are smaller.

I've got 350k on my original starter and alternator :P
Only had to replace one u-joint.
And of course a hand full of LP's and 2 IP's..lol can't win em all.

Talk about digging up the past.


Starter contacts 20.00 dollars
Shut off solenoid 200.00
Being able to say I have a million mile pump Priceless
lol