cracked block
 

A friend came to me with a peoblem the other day that I'm hesitant to deal with, so Here I am asking for some opinions. He has a Cummins with a crack in the block. He's been running it for a bit, since he pulled the thermostat out he says it really doesn't leak too terriblly much water. There's no water in the oil, so it's just an external crack. I have a feeling he forgot to check his antifreeze at some point! Anyway, he ask me if I'd weld it for him. Now I've welded cast iron before and know well enough that it's gotta be heated first or it'll just break beside the weld again, but is it ok to weld his block, or is there a better way to seal it up? Help me out guy's and gal's
Thanks,
Dave

I know there has been success with the stitch weld process if done right. Do a search for "stitch weld" and you come come up with some good info.

yes you can weld it. put in new freeze plugs that have rubber with them and tighten them after a few hours of running the truck.

Kenny McCabe Does a Ton of Stitch Weld jobs, 1-740-342-5007 hes not far from you

brian vannest does too in ravenswood wv.:tu:

The infamous #53 block.

53 Block FAQ and Information


I think they can be if you know what your doing to get the proper penetration.

LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. homepage: Cast iron crack repair, cast iron welding, thread repair inserts

Also, this may interest you:

aluminum welding, pot metal repair, cast iron, silver solder


The only "real" fix is a new block. Good luck :tu:

I FIXED MINE
 

The expansion of the crack is the main problem. The cast iron block will not handle welding unless you bake it first and then cool it in an oven. Even then you will get spider cracks.

If you have access to the equipment and tools.... I have a fix.
3/8 plate above, along, and below the crack.

Drill and tap the block so that you can bolt the plate on. I used 7/16 - 20 bolts last year. This year I upgraded to 1/2 inch fine thread.

Lots of high temp silicone!

I did this last year and it lasted 12K miles (11 months). Started to leak a few weeks ago so I reinstalled the plate with better bolts as well as some other improvements.

It is not pretty (silicone is messy) but it works!!!!!


Lock and Stitch may be a good fix but it is very detailed and required motor removal to do it right. The price is high!

My fix is cheap and it reduces the block from expanding which is the main cause of the leak.


Matt
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1999 5.9L 3500, 6-Speed, 355 Rear, Edge EZ, 4" MBRP exhaust, Exhaust Brake.
In the last 2 years.... it seems to be falling apart!